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WFOracer

06 yz450f suspension set up problems

16 posts in this topic

I need to know what is wrong. My suspension feels horrid in breaking bumps, like a jack hammer (too stiff). I have bottomed it out on some larger jumps (too soft). Other than that, I love the rest of it. It absolutely rips as in the rutted corners and on acceleration bumps.

I am 200# (B/C rider) and my suspension is stock. Sag set to 100mm. Played around with my clickers a little.

Any help would be appreciated. I tried a search in the "suspension" forum and couldn't find anything.

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I think for your weight and more importantly your speed you may need stiffer springs and a re-valve, man. Remember they valve them to be OK for everyone - which is usually not the optimum set up for YOU.

I can take braking bumps and whoops with higher speed and without the back end kicking around on me, and I never bottom it out on big jumps.

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The stock suspension valving on the forks is pretty aggressive for most folks. If you are a fast guy it works great but for the most part the forks feels harsh over the small stuff. A revalve by someone that knows what they are doing will get rid of it. If you go soft to make the small stuff better, the forks will bottom like you said. I have opted to just get faster instead of softening the forks up.

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Has anyone got (or know someone with) sub tanks? They sounds like the best of all worlds.

I probably need more technique work than suspension work.

BTW, I bottomed the sh1t out of my suspension yesterday at a Red Bud open practice. Flat landed the "Launch Pad" :thumbsup::applause::ride:

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Has anyone got (or know someone with) sub tanks? They sounds like the best of all worlds.

I probably need more technique work than suspension work.

BTW, I bottomed the sh1t out of my suspension yesterday at a Red Bud open practice. Flat landed the "Launch Pad" :thumbsup::applause::ride:

Subs won't make the forks softer unless they are revalved. They allow you to run a softer valving but still retain bottoming resistance due to the increased oil level. You'll still need a revalve regardless unless of course you just start going faster.

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you need stiffer springs for sure ,try like a .48 front and 5.7 in the rear, call around to make sure. The stiffer springs make the bike ride higher in the stroke and make it feel better on small bumps and help bottoming

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We have our suspension done by 4-PR, based in Illinois where you are located. But honestly, before you lay out the cash for revalving, have them first fix you up with the proper springs for your weight. The stock valving is very good on this bike, but no valving can work right with improperly sprung components.

http://www.4-prperformance.com/

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We have our suspension done by 4-PR, based in Illinois where you are located. But honestly, before you lay out the cash for revalving, have them first fix you up with the proper springs for your weight. The stock valving is very good on this bike, but no valving can work right with improperly sprung components.

http://www.4-prperformance.com/

Cool, I'll check into them. Why don't they have any prices on their website? Are they expensive?

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I agree with the others, you need to get your suspension revalved and sprung for your weight. One suggestion, do you bleed your forks before each ride? The bleed screw is located on your fork cap, just unscrew let out the air and screw back in make sure you have no weight on the bike. The air can buildup in your forks and cause a stiffer fork action.

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But honestly, before you lay out the cash for revalving, have them first fix you up with the proper springs for your weight. The stock valving is very good on this bike, but no valving can work right with improperly sprung components.

QUOTE]

DITTO !

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Before you spend big money:

Q: Do you still have stock chain on? If yes, you must have your back wheel slid quite back. Try a new chain, adjust the wheel forward. It helps.

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No, the stock chain found its way to the garbage right away. I have an aftermarket chain that is pushed forward aways. I will take all things into consideration. Thanks

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The stock suspension can be harsh in the breaking bumps. Try to keep your weight more center over the bike and not so much over the handlebars. Also try not using so much rear brake coming into the corners over the rough stuff... The rear break will amplify the bumps big time. When the track gets really rough, I turn my clickers out 2 clicks top and bottom of the fork, and one click on the rear shock. My sag is set to 95 mm, and dont forget to bleed out the air screws aswell. With all this takin into consideration, I feel the bike works well with stock springs and valving. I'm not sure your weight.. but it works well for me at 180lbs.

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Their pricing is competetive with any quality suspension tuner. Contact them for information and pricing.

My rider races A class motocross and Pro Arenacross. He claims that this is the best suspension he has ever had.

Tell them #381 Braden Parks sent you!

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Their pricing is competetive with any quality suspension tuner.

Holy crap, that place is expensive. No wonder why they can do a 2-day turn around time, no one can afford them. $200/end, plus parts. I was given a rough quote of $600 total for a valving job. That seems a little on the high side. What do you pay, since you are a sponsored rider?

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