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Just_a_trail_rider

how to adjust rear shock on o5wr450

11 posts in this topic

What is the best way to adjust the rear shock on my 05wr450?

I just installed a new spring and I am trying to set my sag. Its darn near impossible to get to the adjusting ring.

Should I use a long screwdriver and tap it lightly with a hammer? Won't that mess it up?

Any ideas are appreciated.

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place the bike on a stand, Loosen the locking ring. Then go to the left side of the bike , move the mudflap so it rests on the tire and is out of the way. You can then grip the spring and turn it . It takes about 8 ratchets with your wrists to complet a full turn . Make sure the threads are clean, you can put a few spurts of wd-40 on them but keep it off the spring so you get better grip.

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I use an 18 inch long punch with the tip ground flat. It works great for getting into the tight areas around shocks, and the flat tip doesn't damage anything. A screwdriver blade will cut into the soft aluminum adjuser ring when you are banging on it with a hammer.

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Should I use a long screwdriver and tap it lightly with a hammer? Won't that mess it up?

Any ideas are appreciated.

Smash it with the hammer. The ring is replacable, and will look like crap once you touch it, but you only got to do it once.

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I use the spinning the spring method (hold onto the spring and the ring at the same time) and then just use the long punch or screwdriver to set the lock ring onc your done. Take the mudflap and side covers right off to get better access.

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it also helps to remove the air injector junk it will allow additional access

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OK, its done. I carefully used wd40 on the threads on the shock. Then I moved the mud flap and grabbed the spring with both hands and turned it slowly.

It took me a while to figure out that tightening the spring (more preload) means less race sag. I brought the sag from 125 down to about 96-98 or so.

The free sag is set at about 13 or so.

I have been doing circles and turns around my backyard for the past 30 minutes and I can already feel that the bike handles better with the new fork and rear springs. I used the race tech calculator and put in a .5.6kg spring on the rear and .48 kg springs in the front.

Also, the front end seems to want to come up very quickly with just a blip of the throttle instead of the clean and jerk technique I was using before. I'd better watch how I blast out of corners.

I am not sure of all of the geometry and mathematics involved, but the springs I put on makes the bike feel lighter when I lean it over while turning. Next weekend, I'll take it out for a real spin, play with the clickers and get a feel for whether or not I need new valving.

But, I am just an intermediate rider at this point and this should be a big improvement. I will see how it goes.

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I brought the sag from 125 down to about 96-98 or so.

The free sag is set at about 13 or so.

If your race sag is at 98mm, but your free sag is only 13mm, your spring is too soft for your weight. You should have 20-30mm of free sag.

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If your race sag is at 98mm, but your free sag is only 13mm, your spring is too soft for your weight. You should have 20-30mm of free sag.

I hope you are wrong about that. I just bought this spring from racetech AFTER using their calculator and talking with one of their techs.

I spent all day working on it. I think I'd rather lose 10lbs than try to buy and install another spring.

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I hope you are wrong about that. I just bought this spring from racetech AFTER using their calculator and talking with one of their techs.

I spent all day working on it. I think I'd rather lose 10lbs than try to buy and install another spring.

The spring will get a bit softer as it "breaks" in.

You might have to reset the sag in a little while.

Don't worry about it, you got the right spring.

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