Acerbis Rally Pro fit issues XR650L

Has anyone installed these using the stock levers? My bars are Renthal

CR Hi bend the levers seem to be too long...do the guards have to be 're-shaped' :thumbsup: Any other tips or tricks...

MikeH

Move the levers in.

MGS

Move the levers in.

MGS

That wont work, go to cycle gear or any reputable motorcycle accessory shop and get a set of shorty replacement levers, I got some for the same reason. They are FAR superior to stock levers and have a small rubber insert in the finger side of the lever for grip. Plus, they fit under the rally pros or rally brush gaurds without moving the perches...then the perchecs would be in the way of the mounts...

i just got out the ol dremel and hacked off the ends of my levers just enough so they'd fit inside. i only use one or two finders on the levers anyway. but also have the R not the L

i just got out the ol dremel and hacked off the ends of my levers just enough so they'd fit inside. i only use one or two finders on the levers anyway. but also have the R not the L

That works too, but it takes the safety part of a lever design off the end and turns the lever into a stabbing device. AND since the Acerbis gaurds can rotate in a crash, and leave the end of the lever exp[osed that isn;t as good as buying a new set of short levers, plus, the ball on the end of a shorty lever aids in lever action as you can get a finger behind it.

Hey, Thanks gang, I kinda assumed shorty's were needed but wanted to hear some feedback. I've seen cut levers and all but will probably get the shortys ...ASV comes to mind but with guards are they really necessary?

I'm really looking to clean up the controls area and have considered BONZ mounts as well....maybe 1 1/8 bars so there is no cross support, anybody have pics of a clean setup?

MikeH

true i kinda smooth them out but what i also do is wrap teflon tape around the perch to the bars so it's kindof pseudo ASV rotating clamps. so when i do fall the levers also rotate and i just bump them back into place. and usually when i do eat it the last thing im worried about is my levers stabbing meim more worried about those tree branches that jump out in front of me. lol

I trimmed my stock style levers and rounded the ends so they arent sharp, and I keep the guards just loose enough to move slighly by hand when needed. It keeps them from breaking. I think theres some pics in my garage if your curious.

Late

That wont work, go to cycle gear or any reputable motorcycle accessory shop and get a set of shorty replacement levers, I got some for the same reason. They are FAR superior to stock levers and have a small rubber insert in the finger side of the lever for grip. Plus, they fit under the rally pros or rally brush gaurds without moving the perches...then the perchecs would be in the way of the mounts...

What are talking about? It worked on my bike!

Moved the levers in about a 1/2 inch to clear the hand gaurds.

If you have a different suggestion by all means post it, but don't say that mine doesn't work without thinking it thru.

MGS

Hey, Thanks gang, I kinda assumed shorty's were needed but wanted to hear some feedback. I've seen cut levers and all but will probably get the shortys ...ASV comes to mind but with guards are they really necessary?

I'm really looking to clean up the controls area and have considered BONZ mounts as well....maybe 1 1/8 bars so there is no cross support, anybody have pics of a clean setup?

MikeH

I do but I have no way to post it here, email me at sniperX@netscape.com and Ill send ya a pic of my Ralleys on a pair of Protapers with the shorty levers, I may get bar mount clamps too but right now I just am using the pro taper mounts for the Ralley Brush gaurds..notice also that I have an extra device on the bars kinda in the way, a compression release handle.

What are talking about? It worked on my bike!

Moved the levers in about a 1/2 inch to clear the hand gaurds.

If you have a different suggestion by all means post it, but don't say that mine doesn't work without thinking it thru.

MGS

Don;t get all hurt, Im talking about on Protapers, which he will be doing, the bars are too large in diameter and with all the crap you have to hang on them once you get it all scootched in nothing tightens up right as all the stuff on stock bars is for 7/8in not 1 1/8 in bars....it works OK on stock bars but even with bent levers then the bend binds and hits the handlebar switch and throttle housing...Maybe your application works fine, but everything I have has protapers and that doesnt work...sorry to get ya all flamed bro! Didn't mean anything by it!

So, I discovered today the the ASV CLM03 Pro(w/perch)will not work because of interference of the switch gear :thumbsup: then the Moose shorty lever I picked up for the front brake won't work either because it has no provision for the brake light switch...are folks just ignoring this fact? I'm about to give up on the Acerbis Rally Pro guards or simply will trim the stock levers.....hmmm

I use Acerbis Rally Pro on all my bikes and have since they first came out. I used to trim the levers also until I discovered a little trick that works for me.

The Rally Pros are made of fairly soft metal and can be reshaped on the bars to clear the levers. I do the following:

1. Mount the Rally Pros on the handle bars and slide them as far out as possible. When using Renthals with the cross bars, slide the hand guards outward until the inside clamp is against the cross bar. The outside end of the hand guard should be away from the end of the handle bar by approx. 2-3 inches.

2. Tighten the inside clamp of the hand guard so it cannot move

3. Snug up the end cap bolt on the outside of the hand guard so it just starts to grab.

4. Firmly tap the outside end of the Rally Pro hand guard with a hammer or rubber mallet, (this reshapes the hand guard to clear the levers) Tighten the bolt as needed while tapping the end of the hand guard in until it is snug against the end of the handle bar.

5. Tighten the end cap bolt on the end of the handle bar and you are done.

I used to use the shorty levers but now prefer to use the stock ones. You might have to move the levers in a bit to clear the hand guards. I also use teflon tape under the clutch and brake perches so the will move freely in a fall.

I have used this technique and have not had to cut levers with Renthals and Pro Tapers and it works for me. I have done this on the following bikes: XR650L, XR650R, CRF250X, CRF250R, WR450F, YZ426 and YZ250F.

When you do fall and bend the Rally Pro hand guards, you can take them off your bike and reshape them. One of the easier ways to reshape them when camping is to put them into the receiver hitch on your truck and use that as leverage to bend them back into shape or if you are at home, put them in a vice.

When using Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards with Pro Taper bars, you have to buy a separate Acerbis mount (approx. $29.95) for the inside of the handle bar. The stock inside mount is for "non" pro taper bars.

On some applications I have also installed longer bolts on the inside clamps to get more bite on the clamp.

I also prefer to Pro Taper handle bars because it eliminates the cross bar and gives me more mounting flexibility for GPS mounts, mirrors and dual sport kit controls. On my WR450F I have a GPS mount, Trail Tech Speedo, mirror mount, dual sport controls and Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards all mounted on my Applied (Pro Taper Type) handlebars.

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