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PhilOttawa

2 X 60w headlights on a stock XR650L electrical?

13 posts in this topic

Does anyone know if I can rewire my buell headlights so that both of them will be on in high beam without killing the battery?

I have an LED tail light, so that likely saved a little, but will the charging system power both lights and the other stuff without an upgrade?

Also - for the wiring, are you guys just soldering a diade between the high and low beam wires, or is there an easier or better way?

Thanks,

Phil

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You should be fine on the wattage (2x60). I think that the 650L stator is good for 200 watts or more.

If you run both filaments in the headlight bulb you will be running it out of it's specs. Halogen bulbs need to run in a defined temperature range in order to work properly. With both filaments it should get too hot. That will reduce the life of the bulb considerably.

The bulb needs to run between 250C and 350C. Below 250C the halogen cycle will not operate. This will cause the inside of the bulb to get coated with evaporated tungsten. It actually shortens the life to run it too cool. Above 350C the molybdenum ribbons that take the electricty through the bulb begin to oxidise and degrade. Eventually it fails.

I'm not saying not to do it. In fact it's a great and easy way to get more light. Just know that the bulb has reduced life and replace it before it goes bad. More light is good, but sudden darkness is really really bad. Depending on the exact bulb, the normal life is at least several hunderd hours, if not a thousand. Running both filaments might reduce it to a couple hunderd hours or less. I'd try and replace them after 100 hours of running both filaments.

Using a diode is a great simple way to do this. You do get the .7v diode voltage drop though. The other way would be to run a relay, but that's a lot more complicated. Be sure to use a large enough diode. I would use one that is at least twice the current rating that you need. Even higher would be better. When a bulb is started, the inital current is several times the rated current. 60W is 5 amps. That means a 10 amp diode minimum.

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The Buell lamps are NOT DUAL FILAMENT BULBS like H3's and H4's. The bulbs are H7, single filament, either on or off, no hi or lo. Also, the H7 socket is different than an H4 socket, so an H4 bulb will not fit in the housing without mods.

As for your electrical system, it should be fine, but watch the charge on your battery so you don't get stranded with no e-start and no kick start as back up.

Using a relay would be the best way to wire it up. I'm thinking to wire a single bulb to the LO selection on your switch. Then on your HI selection, run 12V to the other bulb AND 12V to an automotive relay which supplies 12V to your LO beam bulb ( it would be best to run dedicated wiring, directly from the battery through the relay to the bulb, this way you won't be pulling the extra current of the 2nd bulb through your handlebar switch.). In this way, you would have a single bulb lit up when your switch was in the LO position. In the HI position BOTH bulbs would light up. There may be a better way, use your imagination, but that's what I'm coming up with currently.

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You should be fine on the wattage (2x60). I think that the 650L stator is good for 200 watts or more.

If you run both filaments in the headlight bulb you will be running it out of it's specs. Halogen bulbs need to run in a defined temperature range in order to work properly. With both filaments it should get too hot. That will reduce the life of the bulb considerably.

The bulb needs to run between 250C and 350C. Below 250C the halogen cycle will not operate. This will cause the inside of the bulb to get coated with evaporated tungsten. It actually shortens the life to run it too cool. Above 350C the molybdenum ribbons that take the electricty through the bulb begin to oxidise and degrade. Eventually it fails.

I'm not saying not to do it. In fact it's a great and easy way to get more light. Just know that the bulb has reduced life and replace it before it goes bad. More light is good, but sudden darkness is really really bad. Depending on the exact bulb, the normal life is at least several hunderd hours, if not a thousand. Running both filaments might reduce it to a couple hunderd hours or less. I'd try and replace them after 100 hours of running both filaments.

Using a diode is a great simple way to do this. You do get the .7v diode voltage drop though. The other way would be to run a relay, but that's a lot more complicated. Be sure to use a large enough diode. I would use one that is at least twice the current rating that you need. Even higher would be better. When a bulb is started, the inital current is several times the rated current. 60W is 5 amps. That means a 10 amp diode minimum.

Holy shit man are you a lampologist?

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Holy shit man are you a lampologist?

Worse than that, I'm an electrical engineer. Had a project many moons ago where we had to push halogens past the specs.

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The Buell lamps are NOT DUAL FILAMENT BULBS like H3's and H4's. The bulbs are H7, single filament, either on or off, no hi or lo. Also, the H7 socket is different than an H4 socket, so an H4 bulb will not fit in the housing without mods.

Not knowing about the Buell headlight assembly, I just assumed it was a H4 or something similar. If they are dual H7 bulbs, the simplest would be to get a higher wattage bulb for the high beam. I think that 100 watt H7 bulbs are available. With halogens higher wattage bulbs are more efficient. A single 100 might make more light than two 60s.

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Good point Cleonard,

I looked at H7 bulbs in the past, but I was looking for 35W bulbs, I didn't find any. They very well might make 100W bulbs.

I can't tell by looking at the actual lenses/reflectors, but one of the dual lenses has different optics, IE. aims the light higher. I'm pretty sure the stock Buell bikes only ever run a single light at a time, one is LO one is HI.

The other issue is that the lenses are PLASTIC. They do get hot with my dual 55's (110W) but no melting issues at all. Now, a single 100W bulb may be intense enough to melt the plastic lenses. Be cautious...

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The XR650L Alternator puts out like 188 watts at 5000 rpm.

If you're going to use 120 of the 188 for your headlights, you will need to go LED on everything else. Blinkers included.

You may want to seriously consider running #12 wires (+ & -) from your battery and use your stock headlight switch to actuate a relay for your headlight. Your stock headlight switch and wiring is not designed to handle more that 55 watts.

If your try to run 120 watts without upgrading your wires and a relay, prepare for a very short bulb life, followed by switch failure and toasted wires.

Don't ask me how I learned this. (the hard way)

check out this info on headlights

I run a 130 high and a 90 low on my death ray and now have absolutely no problems with the set up.

Long live the Death Ray.

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I run a 130 high and a 90 low on my death ray and now have absolutely no problems with the set up.

Where did you get a 130/90 bulb? The biggest I have found is the 110/90 that I'm running now. I need that death ray upgrade.

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Where did you get a 130/90 bulb? The biggest I have found is the 110/90 that I'm running now. I need that death ray upgrade.

HL78142 Bulb H4 Bulb, 12V, 130/90W, each $8.96 here

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A single 100 might make more light than two 60s.

But I'm tired of the "Hey one of your headlights is out" talk at the gas station... :thumbsup:

I want both of them to be lit!

Phil

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So right now, I have the single H7 running low beam, and the other single H7 running high beam with the stock switch. So how do I make the high and low beam come on together when the stock switch is on high?

I was going to just solder a diaode, but I suppose you guys are right I should use a relay. So what type of relay do I need and how do I wire it?

Thanks,

Phil

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