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BLUEDUDE

Is 90 ft-lbs to much??

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about a month ago I took off my rear wheel to find out why it was hard to spin by hand. I took off the collar and tried to spin the bearing. they were seized, and I could not spin them. $100 later, I had a new set of bearing installed. the funny thing was that the original bearings were still good! they were just pressed in to tight so the inner race was press on spacer and would not spin. I did one ride on the new bearings and everything was fine. so today while I was outside in the garage, I noticed that the rear wheel was hard to spin... Again. so I took the rear wheel off and got the bearing to spin freely. this got me thinking that torquing the rear axle nut to 90 ft-lbs is to much and is causing the bearing to pushed farther into the wheel than intended. so I tightened the nut to 75 ft-lbs instead of the recommend 90. Do you think that this is OK and has anyone else run in to this problem before.

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It'll be fine. Never torque wrenched a motorcyle axle bolt and that's going back to my brand new '81 YZ80. Just hand tighten it til it feels tight and make sure the wheel spins freely. Maybe carry a 27mm or whatever it is and check after 10 or 15 mintues if your worried about it.

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It almost sounds like it has been overtightened in the past. This can crush the center spacer between the bearings. fter this happens, normal torque can bind the bearings.

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I always follow the torque specs listed in my manual.

That means 75ft/lbs on the front axle, and 90 ft/lbs on the back axle.

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DO NOT GO 70 ft/lbs on the front axle, I did and the thing totally stripped out because the cheap soft aluminum. I replaced it with steel and went 55 ft/lbs. On the rear I do the 90 ft/lbs and it's fine though.

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they were just pressed in to tight so the inner race was press on spacer and would not spin. ... this got me thinking that torquing the rear axle nut to 90 ft-lbs is to much and is causing the bearing to pushed farther into the wheel than intended. so I tightened the nut to 75 ft-lbs instead of the recommend 90. Do you think that this is OK and has anyone else run in to this problem before.
Remember how this deal works. The inner races, the bearing spacer (also called a distance piece), the outer spacers, axle and the rest of the motorcycle do not turn. The axle stacks all the bearings and spacers together as a stationary unit. The outer races, wheels, and of course, the bearings themselves are what turns.

The only thing that can go wrong with this that might be caused by excessive torque is that suggested by RCannon; the bearing spacer could be crushed, which would pull the inner races off of the centerline of the rest of the bearing and cause it to bind. The exact same thing can happen if one or the other of the bearings is not fully seated in its pocket.

I don't honestly know what I torque my rear axle to, because, like FriscoKLR, I haven't put a torque wrench on a rear axle going back to my new 1966 Yamaha YA6 (or any other of thousands of customer's bikes since). But I'd guess 70-75 pounds.

For those of you that cringe at 90, you should know that that is the spec in the manual.

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DO NOT GO 70 ft/lbs on the front axle, I did and the thing totally stripped out because the cheap soft aluminum. I replaced it with steel and went 55 ft/lbs. On the rear I do the 90 ft/lbs and it's fine though.

I am pretty sure that my axles are steel.

And I have torqued my front axle to 75ft/lbs a bunch of times, with no problems.

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I am pretty sure that my axles are steel.

And I have torqued my front axle to 75ft/lbs a bunch of times, with no problems.

The nut...no, the axle...yes.

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The '06 front axle nut is aluminum, just like he said. Previous years are steel. The problem is that Yamaha missed revising the '06 manual to reflect that fact. Be advised.

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