Closing the gearing gap

When riding in the woods on my L , i get stuck dropping to 1st gear because the

gap between 1st and second is too much to run in second in tight woods.

Do i want to drop a tooth on the front or back sprocket to tighten the gap

without radically changing the gearing (stock) i have now.

I run 60/40 street/trail.

Also , is it OK to cut the stock chain and add a master link to accommodate the smaller sprocket(s) or is a new chain needed ?

I prefer a master link chain , can pop it off , clean it up and lube it

so much nicer off the bike.

I'd say go up one or two teeth on the rear sproket, that way you should be able to get away w/ the chain you have now w/o having to change it, or add links, or anything like that. For lower gearing, the rule is; smaller front, larger rear.

Try to avoid adding links as much as you can; this is mainly a temporary thing, as usually if you ad a link, that can sometimes become the weak point in the chain. But, if your going to go through the effort of getting a larger back sproket, you should go through and replace the entire system; new front sproket, and new chain.

A larger rear sproket should give you a little lower gearing and torque for the trail w/o sacraficing much on top. If you go for a smaller front sproket, the change will be a little more dramatic, since the sproket is already small to begin with.

I have an 'L', also ... I have run the 14/48 combo with the stock 110-link chain, which is PERFECT for offroad, but a bit buzzy over 65mph ... I just switched to 15/48 for a longer road trip I may make soon ... I bought a 112-link chain to use with it ... the 110 will barely work (too tight), and required the wheel to be slid all the way up, and the 112 allows the wheelbase to be stretched out a bit, for highway riding ... btw, I took her up in the mountains yesterday with the 15/48, and I really missed that 14 countershaft sprocket, it will spoil you ... 14/48 makes it feel like a BIG bike ... also, I have used masterlinks for many years, and never had a failure) ... :ride:

I use 14/48 Sunstars and the stock chain, no issues so far its been a VERY solid mod.

I can still blast down the highway at 80mph, even though your pumping it pretty good. I dont ride the highways long distances, maybe 30 min at a time or so. So I dont mind doing 75-85, just to get there quickly. Even on a Terra flex its all good.

But in the dirt this gearing combo is unbeatable in my oppinion, you wont belive the difference.

If you want somewhere in the middle, you can try 14-47, it's pretty good in the woods and not bad on highway. You can always change out to fifteen for highway if you want a bit more top. :ride:

You can always do what I did... the "poor man's 6-speed".

Buy a 13-tooth front sprocked and keep it in your bag. Ride the stock 15/45 for your street stuff and when you hit the trails, it only takes maybe 10 minutes to swap on the 13 tooth front. (The longest part is adjusting the chain slack and torquing the rear axle).

The 13/45 will give you about the same gearing as a 14/48. It takes me a total of about 10 minutes to go from street mode to dirt mode (change front sprocket and yank the mirrors).

:thumbsup:

I run 15/48 for the street and 13/48 for the dirt. I like the way the rear end will slide into corners when I chop the throttle. Very useful getting the beast pointed the way you want it to go in the tight stuff.

I used the 14-48 combo and it was better, but a gap is a gap! You wind the sucker up, then go chug, chug chug in second. These piggs have enough torque to do OK, but I hate to think what is happening to the big end! Still, they aren't known for having big end problems, so flog away.

This is one of the trade offs of this bike. I saw one post on putting in 650 R gears, but how could this be cost effective? Live with it, that's what it is.

I have had chains with masterlinks on bike with close to 200hp. They work fine, don;t worry about a master link being a "weak" point in the chain. Chains nowadays are sooo friggin strong they nevcer break unless they are totally neglected, and you do;t sound like youll let that happen. Get a quality chain and master, then go with a one tooth smaller counter, youll be great on the dirt and it won;t take too much off the top. I went the other way, from 15-48 to 15-42 because it is a supermoto msotly street ridden and I like to go on the freeway. This was like getting another gear! I can now go 75 down the freeway at about the same RPM I was at going 55 with the 15048 setup. And I still go on the dirt fine although a little fast!

I used the 14-48 combo and it was better, but a gap is a gap! You wind the sucker up, then go chug, chug chug in second. These piggs have enough torque to do OK, but I hate to think what is happening to the big end! Still, they aren't known for having big end problems, so flog away.

This is one of the trade offs of this bike. I saw one post on putting in 650 R gears, but how could this be cost effective? Live with it, that's what it is.

Gears from the Xr600R.

Get a 600 with a roached cyl/head, harvest the tranny and kickstart!

Dave

I prefer to adapt to a set of gears then to be swapping sprockets for different applications.

After reading all the helpful replies , I'm still confused on the best way to

close the second gear chug in the dirt.

Going up 1 or 2 teeth on the rear , or changing the front , what would be

the best ?

I like the stock gearing for the road and wouldn't want to change it that drastically (if at all possible).

If you don't want drastic change, I would go with 15-47. It closes the gap between first and second, but still leaves plenty of top. IMO the bike shifts seems better then the 15-45 and not quite as wide. :thumbsup:

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