DIY stator rewind on XRR?

No, no other cool mods. I've got lot's more ideas, but they are just ideas right now.

Glad to hear you didn't have much trouble. I want to hear detailed reports about how it all works for you. Including a summary of your headlight wattage and grip heater wattage, and the idle speed performance. As I said before, I did the 16 awg wind, not the 18 awg wind. I think the 18 awg wind is more appropriate for most people who just want a better headlight (55W) or something simple. I hope it all works well for you. Keep us updated.

Okay I've got the epoxy but don't have time to use it as I'm off to work shortly. I used my new auto ranging meter & got 0.7-0.8 ohms at the terminal leads (green & white leads) coming off the new windings. This seems within range. I'll epoxy it tonight after work. I'll recheck this post prior to doing that. So far, so good.

Hey,

Higher than I'd hoped, but about what was expected. Let us know when you fire it up.

Is the ohm reading a bad sign? Should I stop where I'm at & recheck. Since then I cut some small 1/4 inch squares of friction tape & placed them carefully between the wires where they cross between the poles as extra insurance. I carefully pried the wires apart with the tip of a plactic Bic pen cap & tweezered them in place. This seems like the most likey place for a short over time. Thanks.

Okay, after placing the tape in the above post I now get 0.0-0.1 ohms. Better?

Ohms are a measure of resistance, so the lower # the better to my thinking. Your original post sent me to a sight that recommends ~1ohm give or take a few tenths. I'm no expert on electrical systems so I get a little over my head when understanding the resistance across so much wire. A friend of mine said the greatest risk is damaging the thin insulation of the magnet wire while winding it. He tried to discourage me from doing this mod but I want to prove him wrong. (He sais I make a great indian but not much of a chief.) I think I'll relax & retest everything tonight when I get home. After running around my garage all frantic over the last 2 readings I realized that I had the stator hanging from a metal pegboard hook. I re-tested it once again, lying on a piece of cardboard (the stator, not me) & got 0.2-0.3ohms. Sorry Snaggle, I'll bet I'm driving you nuts by now. I always said I wouldn't start firing off a bunch of questions on a forum before thinking it out first. Time to humble myself.

Well,

As I mentioned, I never did the 18 awg wind, but my 16 awg wind was ~.2 Ohms. I would have expected your 16 awg wind to be .3 - .5 Ohms or something. However, if you did 320 turns, versus my 340 turns, then your resistance would be a bit lower than if you had done 340 turns.

Yes, the lower the Ohms the less the resistance in the coil, thus more current can flow. Resistance is the 'enemy' of current. It sounds like your coil is fine though, no shorts, so lets not dwell on the actual resistance.

The only real test is when you fire off the bike. If you can run your headlight and grip heaters all at the same time, AT IDLE, and not discharge your battery, then you are good to go. Things will only work better when you are riding with some RPM's.

Again, if your existing battery doesn't want to take a charge, don't freak out and try to rewind the stator. Get a new battery pack first and then evaluate the situation.

Keep me updated...

Well it's all together and runs great. I have not bothered to measure voltage at the headlight but at idle the high beam is nice & bright in the daylight. I expected it to at least dim at idle but remains consistent throughout all rpm's. Even at idle everything else works, like the flashers & horn, even with a low battery. I am very pleased. One minor misshap was connecting the wires from the magnet pickup sensor backwards. It started right up & idled but died immediately when the throttle was touched. Switched the wires & all is well. Don't have the handwarmers yet so no assessment there. I'm ordering the ones from Dual Star as they have a higher heat range built in to the left side. I've used the universal ones before & just wired the resistor to the R side which equalized the heat to both sides pretty well but eliminated the option of a Hi/Lo setting, just On/Off. Anyway thanks Snaggle. This worged out very well & cost me only $25 to boot!

EXCELLENT. Glad to hear it worked well for you. It wasn't that hard was it? Can you verify if you have a 35 or 55W headlight, just for my future reference when helping others... Let us know how it holds up with the hand warmers.

The headlight I have is NAPA #BP9003 60/55W bulb. I'll be doing some night riding later this week & will see how it works. I'm still suspicious that the battery is on its last legs. With the engine off it will power the running lights but not the flashers. There are several battery outlet stores here in town. What's the best choice for a replacement giving the limited space to mount it like the original?

The headlight I have is NAPA #BP9003 60/55W bulb. I'll be doing some night riding later this week & will see how it works. I'm still suspicious that the battery is on its last legs. With the engine off it will power the running lights but not the flashers. There are several battery outlet stores here in town. What's the best choice for a replacement giving the limited space to mount it like the original?

I went with a 2.9ah gel cell from batteries plus. At 22 bucks, and 2.9ah it is a great deal, a good shape, about these dimensions, 4 inches long, 1 inch thick, and about 1.5 inches tall, it fits in the airbox of my 600R with allot of room to spare for the filter and air. It has run my 30w headlight and taillight for an hour with no degredation and remains to keep a contstant charge even after 3 months.

I had a feeling that you were running a 55/60W bulb, that's why your stock stator/battery couldn't hang.

I've noticed in the past that the flasher doesn't like to run when the battery is low. It's is a relay, and must need a certain amount of current to switch. Whereas running lights etc... will take whatever they can get, albeit dimly.

About the battery, I've been using my standard Baja Designs DSK battery since 2002 with no issues whatsoever. I don't know what is amp-hour rating is, but it works for me, and I've gotten my $'s worth out of in the last 4 years. Before you buy a battery though, put some miles on with the new stator and make sure the battery won't take a charge before you buy a new one...

Sounds like good advice to hold off on replacing the battery. I've ran the dog snot out of my cordless tools with few problems so I'll just run with it & see if it charges. Just a 12 mile round trip today charged the battery enough to run the flashers with the engine off-albeit slowly. It even ran the high beam, though I only left it on momentarily. Saw my buddy today & puffed my chest out when telling him about my successful stator mod.

I think you need a good 45 mins of high speed riding to really get a good charge. Also, quit 'testing' the battery every time with HI beams and turn signals, this just runs it back down again :thumbsup:

Be proud, you completed a highly technical task on your bike. You saved yourself quite a few $, and you gained invaluable experience. That's what it's all about when modding/fixing/maintaining your bike. Ride on!

I've got about 100mi. since the stator rewind. It has solved my night riding dilemma. I consider this mod mandatory for anyone who actually plans true dual sport use for an XRR. Hi beam throws out sufficient light for confident riding at night. I'll do the handwarmers next I see how things work. Thanks again Snaggle for your patience & time in guiding me through this. Couldn't be happier for 25 :thumbsup: clams & 3 hrs work!

Excellent, glad you are happy with the setup. Just be aware, if the hand warmers are 40W+ then you will be running out of power again (I'm assuming the 18awg wind is ~125W). As you will be able to turn them on/off it shouldn't be that big of deal, just watch your battery when using them. Ride on!

Hey Snaggle, I was wondering, is there some sort of electrical/electronic device that might be wired in line with the handwarmers that could stop current flow to them when the output form the stator is insufficient, like when the bike is idling?

I'm sure there is a circuit that could cheapy/easily be built to do that, but that's beyond my capability. Easiest would be to simply use a switch. Come winter time and you get the grip warmers just try it, it may work just fine, especially if you spend more time at high RPM than at low RPM/idle.

Hey Snaggle, I was wondering, is there some sort of electrical/electronic device that might be wired in line with the handwarmers that could stop current flow to them when the output form the stator is insufficient, like when the bike is idling?

Hypersthenos, I was intrigued and called buddy that works with all that electronics jazz (that I don't claim to know anything about) and he said that it shouldn't be to hard to build...it would take some...[insert electrical lingo here] and [more electrical lingo].

If you know someone good with that sort of thing then I'd ask them.

I like Snaggle's Idea of a switch though! Then you could have them year-round wired in and only have to have them on when you want them!

Hey Y'all,

Well I finally broke down and did it. I won some magnet wire on Ebay, 200 ft of 18 guage and 200 ft of 16 guage. I decided to use the 16 guage. I had a spare stator around from my other engine. I have previously bought a Ricky Stator dual output stator. So for two engines I have three stators. I wound six poles with about 34 or so turns per pole. I ket on messing up on the counting aspect of this so only God knows how many turns I have total. I would the other four poles with about 38 turns per pole. God knows those turns also. I am going to use the six pole windings for the dc side of my bike and the four for the ac side, lighting only. I am hoping that the ac side will be bright at idle. I have changed the dc side over to a lot of leds. I have the Drc Edge and Phantom taillights along with the led insert kit. All of these are from Wheeling. I am also using the turnsignal conversion kit so that I have two more brake and running lights. I REALLY want to have everybody see me when they are on my rear. I bought the Backoff Xp also. I am going to hook that up to the Phantom and led insert under the stock lense and also to the turn signal conversion lihgts. So hopefully with all of this I will be seen. The neat thing about the Backoff unit is that it has a flasher circuit built into it. Neato. Handwarmers and power to my Garmin Legend gps are the other power draws to the battery/ stator. Well if you have gotten this far and have gotten the inspiration to do the rewire I say go for it. Have fun riding, Tony

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