05 WR 450, What Oils To Use?

Hey Guys, I mostly ride in the so cal deserts all year round. what are the best weight oils to use for hot and cold weather. I don't know what the numbers mean. 10W30, 10W20, 20/50?. Heavier for hot weather and lighter for cold weather? Could someone tell me what weight for the temp. I only use YAMAHA LUBE. FYI: pushing 40 and don't really ride too hard. :ride:

Thanks,

In the world of powesports, that's kind of like asking what's the best flavor of ice cream. Given your situation, stick with what the manual recommends, just make sure it doesn't contain any friction modifiers, or your clutch will be unhappy with you. Personally, I run Amsoil full-synthetic 10w-40 year round. Yamalube is fine but, like with any of these bikes, frequent oil/filter changes will keep your ride running...SC

Personally, I run Amsoil full-synthetic 10w-40 year round. Yamalube is fine but, like with any of these bikes, frequent oil/filter changes will keep your ride running...SC

Here here, I also use Amsoil 10-40. I think 20w50 might be a little thick prior to the bike warming up and definitely wouldn't use thinner than 10-40 unless you were always in the snow or never got in the slow stuff or steep hills. Simplified, the 10w is a measure of the thickness (viscosity) when cold and the 40 is a measure of the thickness when hot. The higher the numbers the thicker it is. You want the oil to be thin when cold so it gets to everything as soon as you hit the starter but on the other hand you need it to stay thick when it gets hot so you still have sufficient oil pressure.

Good to know Clark and Dodjy, I've been curious as to wether it was safe to run Amsoil synthetic in my 05 as far as the clutch goes. I will be switching over. Thanks and keep up the good work.

Chris

Like Clark I too run a full synthetic 10/40. I use Motul Etech 100 with great success..

I use Canola when it is really cool, Olive or grapeseed when it is hot, as it has a higher flashpoint.

Simplified, the 10w is a measure of the thickness (viscosity) when cold and the 40 is a measure of the thickness when hot. The higher the numbers the thicker it is.
This is not quite true; the oil does not thicken as it heats up. The first number means the oil will "act" like an oil of that weight when cold. The second number means the oil will "act" like an oil of that weight at 100 degrees celcius. For example, a 10w40 will act like a 10 weight would when cold and like a 40 weight would at 100 degrees, not that those are the viscosity numbers.

I use Thumper Semi-Synthetic, it works great for Hot or Cold weather and holds up well if you like to go fast for long periods of time AKA Desert Racing :ride:

I believe that a full synthetic 10W-40 is the best choice for water-cooled bikes, like the oils recommended above or Mobil1 MX4T. Synthetic oils are more shear stable (which is important since our engine oil also lubes the tranny), and perhaps more importantly, flow better at startup which is when a lot of engine wear actually occurs. 20W-50 is a good choice for an air-cooled motor, but may ultimately offer less protection for our motors.

Avoid automotive oils if you don't have a good knowledge of how they differ. Some, like many heavy-duty diesel engine oils, are fine. If you want to learn more, here is an oil forum with 13,000 members:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

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