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shifty450

Need Help!!! with Stop Screw & "Gray" Wire

7 posts in this topic

I just bought an '06 WR450F on Friday. Anybody out there do those "free mods" that i keep reading about? I took the baffle out of the silencer. I also removed the snorkel out of the airbox. I just need to know a couple things to complete the mods before the 15th. First, is the stop screw, to be replaced with one from a YZ or cut, the screw in the carb or is it somewhere else? If I cut it to get the desired throttle response, how much do I cut it down to? Also, where is "the gray wire under the tank"? And what does it go to or what is it for that this makes such a difference? Please help! I need to get these done before the 15th! Thanks!

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Here are the free mods. They are teh same for the 250 and the 450. The YZ timing won't apply to the 06 and your baffel looks a little different.

http://www.thumperfaq.com/free_mods.htm#YZ

Here is the info on the t-stop.

http://www.pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/40834257

I cut mine but if you do, DO NOT go too short. If you don't have the proper tools to measure, neetly cut and then smooth and debut don't cut it. A mistake can lead to you throttle sticking open.

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Will I need to re-jet after i do this stuff? I really hope not.

Spend a few minutes learning to use the search. Lots of information is there for you to decifer through. :ride:

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hey shifty i too have a 06 wr450 and this site helped me all my mods search around, and yes rejet the thing

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I've picked up an 06 a few months back and the following is what I learned while making the "free" mods:

If you haven't already, remove the AIS. Yamaha has a GYTR kit that works great (GYT-5TJ93-69-00). The kit comes with the YZ throttle stop screw so you won't have to mess with cutting down the WR screw to YZ specs.

Definitely go for the grey wire mod, it makes a huge difference after making the other "free" mods. Don't cut it! Just pull the wire and tape it off so that you can easily go back to the WR ignition timing if you find that the YZ timing is too punchy in the mid to top end for the tight or muddy stuff.

You will definitely need to rejet after making the "free" mods. The bike comes from Yamaha way too lean for most applications. I sprung for the JD kit and can't believe the difference it made. Jetting is not as difficult as it might sound. Read the jetting tutorial on this site, it's excellent!

I would however recommend that you replace the stock Phillips head screws on the float bowl of the carb with allen head cap screws. The bolts are M4 x 0.7 pitch-just ask for M4; 0.7 is the common pitch for this diameter. The correct length is 12mm. (Thanks to WR BOB for the bolt information, when I was struggling with a stripped Phillips fastener :p ). You can find them at any home improvement store. Pulling the float bowl to get to the jets is now a piece of cake.

You said that you pulled the stock baffle, I would recommend the Pro-Moto Billet (PMB) end cap as a replacement. It's still quiet and improves performance. :ride::ride:

You won't believe the difference in the power when you get done! :ride::banana:

This site is a gold mine, just learn how to use the search capability so that you can dig!

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Get the kit. It has everything including instructions. The carb instructions are bit to be desired as they are written for someone that has carb skilz. With the help of this board and the manual you can fight your way through it with success.

Good luck and becareful when ya do this. WHOLE different bike.

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