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airhose

'06 WR450F with specific setup

16 posts in this topic

As I contemplate how to mod my new '06 after I break it in with stock trim I am looking to hear from owners who have done the following:

grey wire

PMB insert

airbox-ectomy

Storm f/a screw

GYT-R AIS removal kit (to include adj. needle, 48 pj, YZ throttle stop)

How do the GYT-R AIS removal kit supplied carb parts impact performance once everything is said and done? Have any experienced riders done these mods and gotten positive results?

I am really resisting buying the JD jet kit and the ensuing endless monkeying around with the carb to get it right. I am a trail rider and will not race... I'd like to think that the GYT-R provided parts will get me to a happy place with the riding that I do in Wisconsin (<4000' for sure!) with temps from 50 to 90.

Thanks,

Airhose

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I've done all the free mods, ais removal kit and the Zip-ty screw. never done anything else, so cal weather and elevation. I've rode my 05 WR at seal level and up to about 4K feet, 20 deg and snowing to 110deg and dust storm and she never burped. never made any adjustment to the carb at this time. clean the filter every ride, change the oil and filter after every three rides. that's just me :ride:

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Airhose,

I ride in the same conditions as Dube2 and I second his experience with my 2006WR. Note that he said that he has not changed the fuel air screw from I assume the initial setting called out in the GYT-R AIS Kit, you just do not need a ZipTy screw. Buy ONLY the GYT-R AIS Kit, install it as per the instructions and ride it like you stole it. :ride:

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Did what those guys said. Added the IMS dez tank,Scotts stabilizer , pro tapper bars, and a few other guards and things. Best bike I have ever owend or ridden. :ride::ride:

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Did the AIS kit put in a Zip-ty just cause it makes easier if it is needed. Outside of that.... :ride: Speaking of which. Need to get out more on that thing

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hay airhose im a mich trailrider,have done free mods pmb insert, no jd kit only gytr needle .i lowered me gearing added a acp cover.got did of the 739 in the front.it runs great for me and still get 40mpg, still goes 85mph, i must be in heaven man :ride:

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Thanks for the replies!! I plan to get things rolling as soon as I get back home.

Ride fast.

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I would skip the PMB insert, and go for a slip-on muffler. PMB insert costs a lot of money just for a tip. Make your own if you really want one. bend up a bit of 1 1/2" pipe and weld it in the stock insert plate. It would cost you next to nothing instead of the $70 or so for PMB. Or you could knock the baffle out and run it with out any insert what so ever.

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Thanks for the thought Assassin, but I ride on private property surrounded by neighbors who are fairly tolerant of us so far. I will stick with the ~96db option.

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Airhose,

Another suggestion. I went two teeth bigger on the rear sprocket on both the 2003 and 2006WR's that I've owned. I ride tight and sometimes rocky single track in Mexico and I've also been riding in the mountains of Utah, lots of rocks. A lower first gear is a DEFINITE plus in those situations.

I also ride in the SoCal desert and with the stock 50 tooth rear sprocket I found that I had to ride much faster than I was comfortable riding in order to stay in 5th gear. One thing that I've discovered with these bikes, after thousands of miles of riding them, if you don't keep them in the upper gears, the gas mileage REALLY drops off. I've achieved as high as 50+MPG on long rides in Mexico on smooth two track and graded roads. Once you start riding a lot in 2nd-4th gear, the mileage drops down to the high 20's to low 30's MPG. With the two tooth increase in the rear sprocket size, I can still go down the highway at 60-65mph and I have a much more useful first gear for the tight rocky stuff.

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Airhose,

Another suggestion. I went two teeth bigger on the rear sprocket on both the 2003 and 2006WR's that I've owned. I ride tight and sometimes rocky single track in Mexico and I've also been riding in the mountains of Utah, lots of rocks. A lower first gear is a DEFINITE plus in those situations.

I also ride in the SoCal desert and with the stock 50 tooth rear sprocket I found that I had to ride much faster than I was comfortable riding in order to stay in 5th gear. One thing that I've discovered with these bikes, after thousands of miles of riding them, if you don't keep them in the upper gears, the gas mileage REALLY drops off. I've achieved as high as 50+MPG on long rides in Mexico on smooth two track and graded roads. Once you start riding a lot in 2nd-4th gear, the mileage drops down to the high 20's to low 30's MPG. With the two tooth increase in the rear sprocket size, I can still go down the highway at 60-65mph and I have a much more useful first gear for the tight rocky stuff.

I did the same thing by going down a tooth on the front sprocket. It's a much cheaper way to get the same results.

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I have incorporated most of your list of changes. Only "most" at this point because at 6000 ft, the stock jetting seems about right with the AIS removed, opened air box, and PMB insert. I have a fuel screw, just haven't put it in yet...

PMB insert: I also thought about making my own, but it wouldn't be worth the effort IMO. $60 buys you a nice piece that perfectly bolts in place and I wouldn't want my bike any louder. Nor I am actually needing more power at WOT at 9000 rpm. I think the PMB insert does noticably improve performance over the stock insert. A slip-on may be right for some people, just not for me...

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Thanks for the thought Assassin, but I ride on private property surrounded by neighbors who are fairly tolerant of us so far. I will stick with the ~96db option.

first baffle knocked out will still keep you under 96db. It is free too.

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I have incorporated most of your list of changes. Only "most" at this point because at 6000 ft, the stock jetting seems about right with the AIS removed, opened air box, and PMB insert. I have a fuel screw, just haven't put it in yet...

PMB insert: I also thought about making my own, but it wouldn't be worth the effort IMO. $60 buys you a nice piece that perfectly bolts in place and I wouldn't want my bike any louder. Nor I am actually needing more power at WOT at 9000 rpm. I think the PMB insert does noticably improve performance over the stock insert. A slip-on may be right for some people, just not for me...

What does PMB test at with one baffle knocked out? still quiet?

I just put to stock pipe back on for riding around the neighbourhood. Nice and stealth like.

I like the stock pipe just with one baffle knocked out, really quiet. Pitty it costs so much power. If PMB isn't that much louder, might be good?

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The stock 20mm ID "insert" (tailpipe really) is the most restrictive part of the exhaust system. The 29mm ID PMB insert more than doubles the flow area plus is shorter inside the spark arrestor, which helps there too. The 1st baffle is the next worst restrictor and many people choose to remove it. I haven't, so I don't personally know how much it helps.

IMO the PMB insert/tailpipe will provide the best final flow out the muffler even if you do remove the 1st or even 2nd baffle. Have you seen the thread by Dodgy that shows all the guts of the stock muffler?

I just think that there comes a point where if you want more power, its time for a bigger bore or more cam lift, rather than making 10 times more noise just to gain a couple of horsepower.

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LTK300,

I think that your gear ratio of 13:50 results in a 1st gear that is too low to be useful and doesn't provide for a 5th gear that will allow you to go fast enough when you are on a smooth section. Just my two cents worth of opinion.:ride:

WFI, when you drop one tooth on the countershaft, that is equal to increasing the size of the rear sprocket approx. 4 teeth. The stock 14:50 gear ratio is equal to 1:3.57 and a 14:52 gear ratio is equal to 1:3.71. Your ratio of 13:50 is equal to 1:3.84 or nearly the same as a 14:54 gear ratio which is 1:3.86.

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