The Ticking Is Gone!!!

First off, I'd like to say thanks to Thumpertalk; they dealt w/ me finding two lower prices than theirs, and beating them. AND, fast shipping.

For years, like 3+ my 650R has been making this really annoying ticking sound, and I just attributed it to 'the bike', but I always had a feeling that it was something just not quite right. After doing a complete top-end job (and spending A LOT of money), I found the problem. I love my BRP, but there are just some things on it (right footpeg, countershaft seal, clutch bushing, thermostat, etc.) that just aren't made very well. Well, time to tack one more thing on the list; the Auto Decompressor.

I've been reading the posts put up for quite sometime, and someone had said that if you get rid of the auto decomp on your stock cam, that you have to plug up the oil galleries. And while I know I could have done it, I didn't feel like messing with it. So, I went and bought a Hotcam stg 1 for my BRP, and got rid of the stupid auto decomp, and uppes the power a bit. :excuseme::bonk:

Probably THE best thing I've gotten for it in about 3 years, as it FINALLY got that stupid Auto Decomp...

So, BWB63, if you read this, please add this to your list on your site of probs w/ the 650R, because the reason I heard about this, was from another guy saying that they go bad on HIS site.

This has been discussed before about the ticking and wear if you run your bike with a lower idle then stock. (most do) You have to have idle at about 1k rpm for the auto decompressor to turn fully off. If not it will tap the exhaust valve making the clicking noise you heard. It is worse on some bikes then others due to the spring tension in the auto decompressor. Or if you run the idle lower then most. 550rpm it is almost fully engaging. I do not have an auto decomression on my 680cc bike.

BWB you should consider doing the big toy run to TJ Mex this dec, its a huge bike run to take toys to the poor kids of TJ, usually about the 2nd weekend of Dec. If you are interested, I will shoot you some info after the summer months, you and your son, (if hes plated) would enjoy the ride.

B-dub, you need to get down there and enjoy the "latte boys" hood! Good stuff in that neck of the woods.

Hey justice, got a ride in yesterday 160 miles and didnt hit reserve! Miss you guys! :excuseme:

I would love to but, (there is always a but) I have just got a promotion at work and I just sold my Truck. I am now looking to get a new GMC Duramax and these dealerships just love to play games. I sure wish I didn't get so mad.....I know that lieing is part of the game but, I take it way to personal. I just had a dealer come down to the price I wanted but, I wanted Blue. He told me with a straight face, "they don't make dark Blue or any Blue" well I have found two blue ones at dealers that are just like my friends blue one. So, I went to those dealers to buy it and they want $2000 more because it's Blue! Same truck, same options, just blue.I think I will wait till all the blue ones are gone and then kick myself for waiting! Well anyways, no truck, no far away rides. I was just talking to David Gray about going down and riding on your turf because it is so much cooler.

This has been discussed before about the ticking and wear if you run your bike with a lower idle then stock. (most do) You have to have idle at about 1k rpm for the auto decompressor to turn fully off. If not it will tap the exhaust valve making the clicking noise you heard. It is worse on some bikes then others due to the spring tension in the auto decompressor. Or if you run the idle lower then most. 550rpm it is almost fully engaging. I do not have an auto decomression on my 680cc bike.

Yeah, my idle IS set lower than stock, but that wasn't the problem. I know the auto decomp does come on lower than 1k rpm. The problem was, was that mine was ticking ALL the time. Even when I had it in the top end, it would still do that ticking, just at a lot faster rate. No matter what I did, or how I ran it, the ticking was ALWAYS there.

Well, I'm just glad its gone. I just remember seeing your pic of all the weak points on the 650R, and I didn't remember if the auto decomp was on there or not.

I think it is easier to start also witout autodecomp, easier & faster to find compression stroke towards TDC.

Can I take my AutoDecompresson lever with stock Cam? How? Mine is certainly idle'd low! I certainly don't want to ruin my top end!

You CAN, but its kind of difficult, unless your really handy w/ a welder. I was thinking about just taking it off my stock cam, but I figured this would be a good excuse to finally get the hotcam.

The way you can do it on your stocker, is you can pull the entire mechanism off, but there are two little oiling holes that the mechanism covers. If you want to use your stock cam, apperantly you need to fill those holes, and the most common method used, is to weld them shut.

I do have access to a welder if the oil holes are on the cam! I'm would rather not weld on the case/head assembly! I'll do some searching for the cam options! Like you said it may be better to go with the Hotcam! I do have a stock motor though!

I do have access to a welder if the oil holes are on the cam! I'm would rather not weld on the case/head assembly! I'll do some searching for the cam options! Like you said it may be better to go with the Hotcam! I do have a stock motor though!

The hole is on the cam and they're super easy to weld shut. It takes just a quick tack and you're done. Removing the auto decomp mechanism is really pretty simple. I've explained it a number of times on here if you do a search.

As I've said before, don't pull on the ears of the cam gear when removing it, otherwise the ears will likely break off. I've removed the auto decomp mechanism on a number of 650R's for other people, but went with the HotCam in my own bikes and have not regretted it. Also, make sure you properly break in your cam to maximize its life and performance, otherwise you may be complaining later about about a wiped lobe, etc. And another thing to check is to make sure your vavle springs are truly in spec.

I think the HotCam is the best bang for the buck for the 650R in terms of a true increase in HP/Trq. What other product can you buy / install for less than $150 and get a true performance increase that can be repeatedly measured on the dyno?

Sounds like the Hotcam Stage 1 for me is the way to go! If I hadn't just spent money on a Dualsport Kit, Tires, Trail Tech, and Liscense I would have jumped on it! I will move it to the top of my list though! I've done all other work on my own to my XR650R but reading the instructions on the Hotcam (They only had XR650L/XR600) web site sounds super detailed/complicated install?/ Is it just the way it it worded or is it as complicated as it sounds? In East TN I don't have a trusted bike mechanic...as of now! and I would wrather not go to the dealer.

I Guess I need to look over it in the matanance manual to see, I'd hate to take a functioning Bike and mess up a valve so it leads to an expence I didn't have in the first place!

I guess I'll keep researching!

Thanks

JT

If you do the install and break-in right, you won't have anything to worry about. I think the reason why Hotcam says all that stuff, so people will be extra carefull in the installation and breaking in of the cam, and rightfully so.

To do this is fairly straight forward. Tank/seat off, top engine bracket off, valve inspection covers off, valve cover off, and cam out.

Put the flange on the new cam, make sure the motor is at TDC, and the lines on the top gear are flush w/ the top of the head. Cover the cam lobes w/ assembly lube, and put everything back together. Also, make sure to do a valve adjust, as well as an oil change. Thats about all there is to it, but make sure you have a shop manual by your side, because what I said here isn't nearly good enough to do a proper install.

Also, when you get the flange put on the new cam, make sure its done right. The machine shop I have here didn't line up the groove on the flange w/ the dot on the cam. Good thing I caught it while I was at the shop, and had them re-do it.

Excelent! that is 100% manageable! I read the instructions on Hotcam's and saw that XRsonly had a Cam install kit for $100+ dollars that they wanted to sell me that had a timing wheel and a tons of other stuff that would only ever get used once but may look good on the garage wall! So I thought! I'm going to try to scrape the $150 up some how!

Thanks all!

JT

After reading through bwb63's site, I realized it wasn't his site I was referring to, but the xr650r.us site. That was the site w/ the pic of the BRP and most of the ailments on it. Sorry about that bwb63...

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