Beware of Wide "X or O" Ring Chings on 06

I had bought a renthal o-ring chain for my 06 and was about to install it this weekend. Anyone know if this chain will work or if it is too wide? Thanks

Just looked at mine and yes there is a little bite out of the frame with a DID Oring. I am going to flip the master and see if it helps...

I've decided not to flip the master link now, because it looked a bit too close to the case as it wrapped around the front sprocket.

Hopefully someone comes out with a guard for this.... I'm betting that most if not all chains are going to rub there.

I just got this new x ring chain that didnt have a normal clip type masterlink. I kinda pressed it together with various pliers and than mushroomed the end out. Now is there anyway to remove the chain? I think i took one too many links out doesnt look like i can take the chain off with turning the chain adjusters all the way in? thanks

I just got this new x ring chain that didnt have a normal clip type masterlink. I kinda pressed it together with various pliers and than mushroomed the end out. Now is there anyway to remove the chain? I think i took one too many links out doesnt look like i can take the chain off with turning the chain adjusters all the way in? thanks

I'm not exactly sure of what you want to know, but I'll have a go. Why do you want to take the chain off? If you take out the rear axle bolt you should be able to take the wheel out. You could use a different master link if you grind off the clip of the other one.

I have an 04 yz450f and my subframe is tore to shit because of a shitty chain the guy i bought it from had on it. It was so bad it also hit the side of my tire and wore it out. My question is what is the best way to align your rear wheel with out using the marks, i think mine are off. thanks

I bought a cheap of of dial calipers.... .001 graduation...I measure from the top of the locking nut, to the underside of the head on the adjusting screw..Each side should be the same..If your within .010..I say plenty good..

I wouldnt trust them stamped out hash marks...I also record my measurement

So I can put it back the same way after a flat fix, and it also gives me reference on wear and stretch..

Stainless sheet metal, around .032...fix it to the inside of the subframe..

Just thinking out loud..

The simplest (and most common) way to see if your rear wheel is lined up straight is to measure from the swingarm pivot bolt to the axle bolt on both sides.

Just to clarify: This is how to see if the markers are accurate(and see if both sides of the swingarm are the same length), and if they are, you can continue to use the markers to accurately adjust your axle.

I have a Regina O ring chain on mine with 20 hours use and it does not show any signs of rubbing the frame. However, I do think after seeing this post I will replace it more often just to prevent any chance of that happening.

I ran about 2.2 hours today with my RK X-ring and I couldn't see any wear on the frame despite it being a little loose by the end of the day.

so what is everybody's chain slack set at ? The manual calls for between 1.9-2.3 inches, which seems loose to me..

so what is everybody's chain slack set at ? The manual calls for between 1.9-2.3 inches, which seems loose to me..

If you set the chain to spec, then sit on the bike the slack will tighten up. I keep my chain set to what the manual says.

Wouldnt putting a tie down on your exhaust to compress the suspension put A LOT of stress on the exhaust and make it bend?

Just do what the manual says..........

Put your bike on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and set the correct tension. Too easy. :ride:

i too have contact to the inside frame, very little though. i have a primary drive sprocket and chain set on my 06. the chain is an x-ring(all gold)

dumped the stock chain for a high quality DID and no more side to side slap while riding. even tried to pull the chain sideways to see if it was possible and its not even close.

Wouldnt putting a tie down on your exhaust to compress the suspension put A LOT of stress on the exhaust and make it bend?

Just do what the manual says..........

Put your bike on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and set the correct tension. Too easy. :ride:

The way the pipe is mounted, it probably wouldn't hurt. However, considering the cost of one, I wouldn't do it. You have the right idea.

so what is everybody's chain slack set at ? The manual calls for between 1.9-2.3 inches, which seems loose to me..
It does seem loose, but if the wheel's aligned, loose isn't really a problem. Here's some things to keep in mind.

> The spec'd measurement in the manual is not the actual slack in the chain, it's the distance from the rear slider bolt to the chain when you pull up on it.

> The chain tension must be measured on a stand in order to provide a consistent reference.

> The point in the suspension travel where the swing arm pivot and both sprocket centers are aligned is the tightest place, but full extension is not necessarily the loosest. That's because the lower run of chain runs up and over the lower roller, taking some of the slack out in the last 2" or so of travel. Regardless, the manual takes this all into account, and if you adjust as prescribed, you will have adequate slack throughout the range of travel, unless something was modified. In that case, you should remove the shock and test the tension through the full range of travel.

3 Fingers under the chain at the rear chain slider bolt. Thats what I got, chain seems loose, it ran fine today.

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