stripped choke cable

Took carb out tonight to rejet and when putting choke cable back on noticed threads are pretty much gone. It does stay in the carb and seems to be working,but am wondering if it will hurt to ride till I can get a new cable. Do they make a cable that has a metal threaded end?

Mine did the same thing after countless removals.

What I did to keep it inplace was put teflon tape on the threads, thread it in till snug, then a dab of silicone over the area where the nut meets the carb.

Worked great for a few rides, then got tired of re-jetting that crappy POS carb & bought an Edelbrock.

NOTE: This site provided the above link, not I. If you have the "L" model, check with Barnums or Edelbrock itself.

Well I geared up a small piece of hose to my vacume cleaner and made sure I cleaned out any plastic pieces from the choke hole and used Tirebiter's idea of the teflon tape. Seems to be holding, new cable should be here first of week. :excuseme: Thanks Tirebiter :bonk:

Your welcome! :excuseme:

I stripped mine once, btw the plastic cap for a trx350quad 86-92 have the same nut even though the plunger and springs are different. Also, I wouldn't use a metal one, or you'll be trying to replace the threads in the carb body instead of the nut.

Well I geared up a small piece of hose to my vacume cleaner and made sure I cleaned out any plastic pieces from the choke hole and used Tirebiter's idea of the teflon tape. Seems to be holding, new cable should be here first of week. :banana: Thanks Tirebiter :eek:

Do you have to replace the whole cable and was it much trouble to do it?

This thread is from 2006

Do you have to replace the whole cable and was it much trouble to do it?

You can't replace just the nut, if that's what you're asking.

You do just have to get it to stay put in the hole, though, so a kludge fix usually works.

Dave

Mine broke,,,

P1000974.jpg

The Honda shop wanted about $80 for the OEM part

P1000975.jpg

So,,, I glued together the plastic with super glue, and reverse engineered the part.

choke-nut-body.jpg

choke-nut-threaded.jpg

Had a local machine shop bang out the parts from aluminum hex stock (cost about $80)

P1000969.jpg

And used JB Weld to fix the threaded part to the body.

P1000979.jpg

No more problems!

Mine broke,,,

P1000974.jpg

The Honda shop wanted about $80 for the OEM part

P1000975.jpg

So,,, I glued together the plastic with super glue, and reverse engineered the part.

choke-nut-body.jpg

choke-nut-threaded.jpg

Had a local machine shop bang out the parts from aluminum hex stock (cost about $80)

P1000969.jpg

And used JB Weld to fix the threaded part to the body.

P1000979.jpg

No more problems!

So the end part (the slide valve) comes off the end of the cable?

That makes a fix much easier.

Dave

So the end part (the slide valve) comes off the end of the cable?

That makes a fix much easier.

Dave

yeah Dave there's a small clip u remove and it comes off the carb-end of the cable...:banana:

...u can see the slot for the clip in the pics. :lol:

the problem is Honda does not sell the plastic nut as a seperate part... :lol:

...maybe one of the carb suppliers? :eek:

i sent my spare(after R carb swap) plastic nut to one of the guys who stripped his.

;)

Mine broke,,,

The Honda shop wanted about $80 for the OEM part

So,,, I glued together the plastic with super glue, and reverse engineered the part.

Had a local machine shop bang out the parts from aluminum hex stock (cost about $80)

And used JB Weld to fix the threaded part to the body.

No more problems!

So the machine shop had a limitation and had to make the threaded part separate?

Dave

No, the shop could have made it from a single billet of material.

I choose to make two separate pieces to reduce the cost, and eliminate the need for a thread relief cut at the base of the nut. A relief cut would have resulted in a reduced surface contact area on the threads in the carb body. The carb body (being a cast part) I assumed to be made of a softer and probably non-tempered aluminum alloy. I wanted all the thread contact area I could get to keep from messing up the threads in the carb body when tightening up the nut, and making the part this way allowed that to happen.

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