what is the best way to fix crack fuel tank?

Now that's a truely informative site! Thanks, EVLXX for posting!!! :excuseme:

what are you thinking about it, is there way to fix the tank? (according to the last two posts wr,klx)

talked yesterday with chemical engineer at my work and he was surprised when i told him that the fuel tank is made of polypropylene (does it?),

according to what he knows, fuel tanks should not be made of thermoplast (like here) and the only thing that i can do is to buy a new one because of contamination of the polymer by fuel).

so, if i will buy new one who can assure me that this thing (cracking) will not happens again?

Would you just go get a new tank and give it up??????? :excuseme:

This thread must end :bonk:

Would you just go get a new tank and give it up??????? :excuseme:

This thread must end :bonk:

as i posted before, anew one from my dealer is nearly 1000$.

I'm probably buy use one.

the thing is that this is something that you couldn't think would happened.

I'm mechanical engineer at my qualification and from science point of view it makes me interested allot.

i have a basic rule: from bad situations (like here) try to get all benefits.

so before that happened i didn't have much knowledge at plastics (polymers).

there is a therm in Hebrew that says "if it is not going to kill you it will make you stronger" I'm not sure how does it going in English...

When you priced out that "$1000" tank are we talking stock replacement or an aftermarket replacement? Aftermarket larger tank is $200 US. Find some online retailer who can ship to your location and be done with it.

what are you thinking about it, is there way to fix the tank? (according to the last two posts wr,klx)

No, not to fix the tank, but for identification and repair of other plastic stuff. As I said before, it's the fuel contamination that's going to hurt any repair efforts. Just to be sure, I discussed this with a couple of the non-metallics materials and processes engineers at work (who also ride), and they came up with the same conclusion. Anythin you could do would either not adhere from the outset, or would fail the first time any significant load, either from differential pressure, fuel slosh, or strain compatibility, was applied to the tank. Interestingly enough, one of them has been trying to find ways of "driving off" the contamination from jet fuel when stored in thermoplastic tanks, and has been less than successful.

what about the web site that post here, it seems to have large range of solutions for plastic repair.

send an email to the web site that post here that's what i write to them :

Hello

I have my dirt bike fuel tank cracked.

The problem is that I'm not sure what kind of plastic is made of: PP or PE.

I talked to some people and to their opinion there is no way to fix it because of the contamination of the plastic by the gasoline.

1. is that correct?

2. Is there away to fix the crack although it is contaminate with fuel (carbonize)

thanks

and their answer

Tsvi,

You can tell your friends they are wrong. I believe your tank is PE...virtually all motorcycle tanks that are plastic are some variety of PE, so you can pretty much rule out PP. Fixing a fuel tank is quite easy as long as its not crosslinked PE, but that can be done too. For normal PE (thermoplastic), all you would do is v groove out the crack using a dremel tool to expose fresh plastic, sand the edges of the v-groove, then weld it up!

In the rare case its crosslinked PE (Thermoset - not meltable) you would still use the ATV or KC Welder to fix the tank following the same steps as above, but you would scuff up the v-groove with 60 grit paper and just apply the rod more or less like a patch. You would not melt the base material in this case.

IF I were you, I'd order the ATV PRO kit because it comes with more rod and some reinforcement mesh (Use the mesh...it will add a lot of strength to the repair)

Sincerely,

Scott Bixler

Product Development Manager

800-633-3047

Urethane Supply Company

1128 Kirk Rd

Rainsville, AL 35986-6038 USA

tel: 256-638-4103

fax: 256-638-8490

now, what do you have to say about it?

and check this link:

http://www.urethanesupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=5004BLU&Category_Code=&Store_Code=URE

It will not work. JB will not have adhesion with the tank material. There is no known to me method to weld it, you will just loose time and money trying...

that's funny it works fine for me

send an email to the web site that post here that's what i write to them :

Hello

I have my dirt bike fuel tank cracked.

The problem is that I'm not sure what kind of plastic is made of: PP or PE.

I talked to some people and to their opinion there is no way to fix it because of the contamination of the plastic by the gasoline.

1. is that correct?

2. Is there away to fix the crack although it is contaminate with fuel (carbonize)

thanks

and their answer

Tsvi,

You can tell your friends they are wrong. I believe your tank is PE...virtually all motorcycle tanks that are plastic are some variety of PE, so you can pretty much rule out PP. Fixing a fuel tank is quite easy as long as its not crosslinked PE, but that can be done too. For normal PE (thermoplastic), all you would do is v groove out the crack using a dremel tool to expose fresh plastic, sand the edges of the v-groove, then weld it up!

In the rare case its crosslinked PE (Thermoset - not meltable) you would still use the ATV or KC Welder to fix the tank following the same steps as above, but you would scuff up the v-groove with 60 grit paper and just apply the rod more or less like a patch. You would not melt the base material in this case.

IF I were you, I'd order the ATV PRO kit because it comes with more rod and some reinforcement mesh (Use the mesh...it will add a lot of strength to the repair)

Sincerely,

Scott Bixler

Product Development Manager

800-633-3047

Urethane Supply Company

1128 Kirk Rd

Rainsville, AL 35986-6038 USA

tel: 256-638-4103

fax: 256-638-8490

now, what do you have to say about it?

and check this link:

http://www.urethanesupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=5004BLU&Category_Code=&Store_Code=URE

I'd say that Mr Bixler is doing what any good marketing whore is supposed to do...trying to sell his product.

As my dad used to say, advice only costs if you use it. Those of us here who are advising you not to try to fix your tank, but to purchase either a new or used aftermarket tank are doing so to try to save you the hassle we've all been thru, not to engage in a pissing contest. Go ahead and spend your bank on Mr Bixler's product and give it a try. It's not my money and not my balls that are going to get chemical burns or worse when the repair fails. Let us know how you do. If it doesn't work, and you end up taking our advice and shopping for an aftermarket, or even a used OEM tank, our advice costs beer :excuseme:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clarke-Gas-Fuel-Tank-YZ-and-WR-400-426-250-F-1388-Xlnt_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35586QQihZ002QQitemZ4652559776QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IMS-tank-off-02-YZ-WR-250F_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35586QQihZ002QQitemZ4653609604QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GAS-TANK-fuel-yz250f-yz-wr-250f-400-426-yamaha_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35586QQihZ002QQitemZ4653972273QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YZ250F-Gas-Tank-Fuel-Cell-450-YZ-400-250-F-WR-426_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35586QQihZ002QQitemZ4651892502QQrdZ1

Now that's a truely informative site! Thanks, EVLXX for posting!!! :bonk:

You're welcome.... but I truly believe you can fix that tank... and I also believe you can even fix it stronger than what is was to start with... with the ATV Kit, the re-inforcing Mesh and some Blue PE rods...

Why do I think al that.... because I've used this product... and will swear buy it... used propperly it's absolutly amazing stuff. Where everything else fails... it works. When epoxies just fall off.... this sticks....

Personally my favorite Kit is the FiberFlex... but I don't think you can get it in Blue.... just Black.

... but hey.... who am I to try and save you $150... :excuseme:

Goodluck.

If you're not going to use that tank..... you could always send it to me.... I would love to play with it....

I want to make my own 4.2 Gallon tank.

I'd say that Mr Bixler is doing what any good marketing whore is supposed to do...trying to sell his product.

As my dad used to say, advice only costs if you use it. Those of us here who are advising you not to try to fix your tank, but to purchase either a new or used aftermarket tank are doing so to try to save you the hassle we've all been thru, not to engage in a pissing contest. Go ahead and spend your bank on Mr Bixler's product and give it a try. It's not my money and not my balls that are going to get chemical burns or worse when the repair fails. Let us know how you do. If it doesn't work, and you end up taking our advice and shopping for an aftermarket, or even a used OEM tank, our advice costs beer

like i written before, i intend to buy a used tank and use it.

but I'm not going to give it up so easily.

i can not ignore that there are actually people that fix the tank and it works. yes, we do not know for how long it will stay (permanently) and of course it is dangerous to ride with the crack.

the contamination is correct and no doubt about it, but it can affect on adhesive opportunities. the welding is not clear yet regard the contamination, because in that case you melt and mix the plastic.

this issue irritates the brain trying to find solutions, maybe to put bladder (like camel back) inside the tank and connect it's hose to the carb (off course not going to try this)

so, what i have to do while waiting my new (used) tank arrive?, just to discuss this issue with you guys, so let us take it easily and enjoy that... :excuseme:

Not to piss in the punch bowl, but you aren't going to be able to make a durable fix on that tank. Most cars come with rotatinally molded polypropylene fuel tanks these days. Call your local Ford, Chevrolet, or Daimler Chrysler dealer, and ask the service department if they can fix a cracked plastic fuel tank. They won't help you.

Waht about a polyamide nylon tank? Any expereience or information on repairing them?

bb

I have a stock 06 take off, if anyone needs a stock one, going CHEAP!

I had a tank that cracked right next to the fuel tap.

A backyard repairman fixid it by lining the tank with some sort of epoxy.

The tank was fine for the 12 months I had it after that.

I had an IMS tank on my WR400 that developed a crack near where the radiator shroud bolts to it. I glued it several different times and it always leaked a little bit. I ended up buying a new one from IMS and avoided the hassle of the repair of the old one. I still have it if anybody wants it. It is 3.2 and clear in color, or at least it was at one time! It is yours for free if you pay the postage from AZ.

I also have numerous WR400/WR426 stock seats and tanks for sale with little if any use. PM me if you are interested.

I tried to fix my plastic tank on a wr400. I tried several methods here is what I discovered;

1. Melting the crack worked great but made the crack brittle and was leaking again soon after.

2. solvent resistant glues held for about one day then released there hold

3. My last attempt was to Clean, sand Melt, Glue then fiberglass. This method looked great and held through the next day of hard riding but was leaking again soon after that.

My recommendation for anyone with a cracked tank is this; Squirt some solvent resistant glue into the crack then duct tape over while you're waiting for your new tank to arrive. Your gonna end up buying a new tank eventually so don't waist your time and cash trying to patch.

-Peace

A Picture of my '84 TT 600 tank, about 2 weeks after being repaired professionally, by people repairing radiators. (Cost me +/- $70) As you can see there is a new crack emerging. I am saving up for a Clark tank.

Picture007copy.jpg

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