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EVLXX

Who's go the best deal on oil filters ?

25 posts in this topic

Just paid $18 for 1 oil filter. ... that's figgin :excuseme:

I also have been doing some searching.... but can't find anything that fits my 06 WR for less than $10.

And..... everything I find says that the filter changed in 05.... true or False ?

Sure wish I could find a Napa Gold Part number ...

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I bought a Scotts. Like you I got tired of getting ripped for a filter. A one time hit of around $70.00 and I am good forever. With the Scotts I clean it every change and am not tempted to reuse a filter due to the cost.

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Well that HiFlo looks great.

As for the Scotts.... No way.... not in a million years. I mean if you're going to use that... why even put anything in there, you already have an inline screen filter ?

Plus... I work at a shop that does regular Oil analysis on All of our vehicles... and can Tell you that the most important Filter changes are the first 4-5. That's when all of the engine break-in takes place and has the most effects on the life of the oil and motor.

In fact.... after 500 hours most engines no longer need periodic oil changes, rather they only need periodic Filter changes.

My advise... buy good oil filters and change them regularly.

and.... Thanks.

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EVLXX: What frequency are you planning to be changing your oil?

I agree about not using a Scott's. I want the finest level of filtration possible. Filters are cheap compared to an engine rebuild.

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The stainless steel ones actually filter more than a paper one and its easy to get them clean again also. I got the ready racing reusable filter because it came with a cover and was like 50-60 bucks.

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I bought a Scotts. Like you I got tired of getting ripped for a filter. A one time hit of around $70.00 and I am good forever. With the Scotts I clean it every change and am not tempted to reuse a filter due to the cost.

What is the procedure on cleaning the Scotts? How do you know you really got it clean? I like the convenience of the paper filters, and wondering if the hassle of cleaning a SS filter is worth the investment. Thanks.

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Well that HiFlo looks great.

As for the Scotts.... No way.... not in a million years. I mean if you're going to use that... why even put anything in there, you already have an inline screen filter ?

Plus... I work at a shop that does regular Oil analysis on All of our vehicles... and can Tell you that the most important Filter changes are the first 4-5. That's when all of the engine break-in takes place and has the most effects on the life of the oil and motor.

In fact.... after 500 hours most engines no longer need periodic oil changes, rather they only need periodic Filter changes.

My advise... buy good oil filters and change them regularly.

and.... Thanks.

You obviously haven't looked at the Scotts or you wouldn't compare it to the in-line filter (have you even seen that one?). The in-line would be lucky to catch a large piece of metal due to its design. Based on your opinion,now after 500 miles I wont ever have to change my oil or filter, I will just fill it up when it gets low. Maybe I will just seal off the drain bolts so I wont be tempted!

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Honestly if you are crying about 15 dollars then you better just give up, walk away and never look back.

Honestly why are you crying about a -$50 part??

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Honestly if you are crying about 15 dollars then you better just give up, walk away and never look back.

Honestly why are you crying about a -$50 part??

He is in for a big shock! :excuseme:

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Well that HiFlo looks great.

As for the Scotts.... No way.... not in a million years. I mean if you're going to use that... why even put anything in there, you already have an inline screen filter ?

Plus... I work at a shop that does regular Oil analysis on All of our vehicles... and can Tell you that the most important Filter changes are the first 4-5. That's when all of the engine break-in takes place and has the most effects on the life of the oil and motor.

In fact.... after 500 hours most engines no longer need periodic oil changes, rather they only need periodic Filter changes.

My advise... buy good oil filters and change them regularly.

and.... Thanks.

You need to do your research a better, A LOT BETTER! :excuseme:

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I've been using the K&N on my WR 400 and that seems to be a good filter. It seems to be some sort of metal mesh. Figure 10 bucks every couple rides plus another 10 for oil that is not too bad givin the importance of oil.

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You obviously haven't looked at the Scotts or you wouldn't compare it to the in-line filter (have you even seen that one?). The in-line would be lucky to catch a large piece of metal due to its design. Based on your opinion,now after 500 miles I wont ever have to change my oil or filter, I will just fill it up when it gets low. Maybe I will just seal off the drain bolts so I wont be tempted!

Oooopps..... I see I worded that a little badly. My bad.

Most oils can go about twice as long as the vehicles recommended change intervals.... Especially the Syn blends.

What I meant was , a person could probably skip every other oil change, but I don't know if you could skip every other filter change as well.

As for the Scotts...... what Micron range is the oil intend to catch ???

Paper filters have a Micron range.....

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Stainless Steel Oil Filters Questions

Most common Stainless Steel Oil Filter questions.

A word from Scotts Performance about world’s finest motorcycle oil filters: “Thanks for your interest in our filters. We think it's great that people are calling attention to the importance of oil and it's filtration The more information we can get to people like you the more our product will stand above the competition. Remember, oil is the lifeblood of your machine.... keep it clean!”

Q&A

1. Has this technology been proven yet? This technology has been in use for many years and has proven itself in NASCAR, Formula One and the Aerospace industry. These filters have been in use in the off road motorcycle world for over 5 years. Manufacturers like Yamaha have supplied their own version of it. The KTM factory guys have even been buying them for their own bikes (even though they can’t legally endorse the product). In other words this is not a new idea, just a new application of proven technology. And of course, we run these filters on our personal bikes, street and dirt.

2. What kind of materials are used in this filter? The filter housing and filter element end caps are carved out of a solid chunk of 6061T6 billet aluminum, which not only looks trick but aids in dissipating heat. The filter element is made from laser cut, medical grade, type 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth to provide unmatched protection against oil contamination and resultant engine damage. A super strength nickel-plated neodymium rare earth magnet is installed in the top of the element for magnetic pre-filtering of the oil. The adhesive used in the filter assembly process is good to 600 degrees Fahrenheit, far above the normal operating temperature of 180 to 230 degrees. The quad-ring gasket doubles the seal between the filter housing and the engine.

3. How does the actual filtering process work? Our spin on units feature Magnetic Pre-filtering as the oil passes by the magnet prior to flowing into the filter. The stainless steel filter cloth then filters the oil to an “absolute” 35 microns.

4. How does this type of filtration compare to paper filters? We sent three common brands of paper filter material off to have them tested for the smallest and largest sized particles that would pass through the material. We sent the material off with no names, just numbers for identification so the lab wouldn’t have any idea who’s filter they were testing. The results we got back showed that the smallest particle the three would catch ranged between 9 and 20 microns. The LARGEST particle the three would allow to pass through the material ranged from 56 to 300+ microns. Paper filters are rated on an average of what they will let pass, so each of these three would each be rated at numbers that are somewhere between their individual extremes. The medical grade stainless steel cloth that we use is rated at an absolute 35 microns, meaning nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. This “absolute” rating is important because this type of filter material is also used in medical applications like blood filtration. Bottom line is paper is rated differently than the stainless cloth (average vs. absolute), and either one works to filter stuff out of your oil. Personally I like the idea of keeping the big stuff out of the engine.

5. What Are Microns? A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That’s approx. .00003937 inches. 35 microns is about .00138“, (just over one-thousandth of an inch). The lower limit of visibity to the human eye is about 40 microns. Pollens range from about 30 to 50 microns. A white blood cell is about 25 microns.

6. How much oil will this filter flow? A very important dimension of oil filters to keep in mind is the flow rate. A one inch square of our filter material flows 1.9 gallons of oil per minute at only 1 PSI pump pressure (70 degrees F). This means our S1 filter is rated at 57 gals/minute!

7. How does the flow rate compare to paper filters? We have run static pressure tests between our filters and paper filters (for an identical application). The stainless steel micronic filter flowed a consistent 7.8 times more oil for the same time period than did the paper filter (tests were run at 68 degree ambient temperature). Think about your bike during cold startup… nice thick cold oil, trying to get through that oil filter. We have read tests that reported multiple instances of oil going through the bypass valve during cold startup because of the resistance of the paper oil filter to passing the cold oil. Now think about all the crud that has had a chance to settle to the bottom of the oil pan right where the oil pickup is…. just waiting to go through the bypass valve directly to the engine components! If the oil doesn’t get to go through the filter material it doesn’t matter what the micron rating is. Another thing that could affect the paper filter is moisture. When paper gets wet it swells and may pass even less oil. Not everyone is aware that engines get condensation in them.

8. Why the “take apart” design? Racers and motorheads have been taking their oil filters apart for ages. Our filter makes it much easier than cutting apart messy paper filters. It is a great way to get early signs of what is happening in the engine. By checking the particles that get caught in the filter you can identify abnormal wear and prevent catastrophic engine failure. It’s a lot less aggravating to replace a rod bearing that’s starting to go, than to be standing next to your machine staring at that same rod sticking out the side of the engine!

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Oooopps..... I see I worded that a little badly. My bad.

Most oils can go about twice as long as the vehicles recommended change intervals.... Especially the Syn blends.

What I meant was , a person could probably skip every other oil change, but I don't know if you could skip every other filter change as well.

As for the Scotts. ..... what Micron range is the oil intend to catch ???

Paper filters have a Micron range.....

I was just messin with ya! My point was I was impressed enough to try the Scott's. If it works as advertised I will be very happy, as well as having saved a few bucks over the long run. We shall see ....

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Just so you guys also know....

The MOST damaging particles in your engines Oil system are particles inbetween 20 and 40 Microns.

Smaller than 20 can actually have some extra lubricating properties and larges particals will fall out as sediment. It's the 20-40 M ranges that acts like liquid sandpaper.

So my point.... that Scotts. ... absolutely misses 75% of the bad stuff.

Just something to think about....

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