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Shuffler

Rekluse External Adjuster Question

6 posts in this topic

Almost ready for my first ride on the WR426 with the Rekluse. Clutch lever & cable are gone. I loosened & rotated my clutch cable bracket fwd, which puts some tension on the external adjuster spring, pulling the clutch actuator arm all the way forward, just as pulling on the clutch lever would do. Is this the right position for making the initial spring tension adjustment?

I have to admit the Rekluse instructions are a bit vague with the install/setup of the external adjuster. I assume once this is set up, I start the bike & let it warm up, drop it into 1st or 2nd, and........hope for the best?

If I start from 1st or 2nd gear, the idea is that the autoclutch will engage the rest of the plates via centrifugal force so I don't need to upshift? What about downshifting...would I still use my shift lever for that or is it automatic also?

This whole concept is new to me and I've never ridden an autoclutch-equipped bike before...

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Almost ready for my first ride on the WR426 with the Rekluse. Clutch lever & cable are gone. I loosened & rotated my clutch cable bracket fwd, which puts some tension on the external adjuster spring, pulling the clutch actuator arm all the way forward, just as pulling on the clutch lever would do. Is this the right position for making the initial spring tension adjustment?

I have to admit the Rekluse instructions are a bit vague with the install/setup of the external adjuster. I assume once this is set up, I start the bike & let it warm up, drop it into 1st or 2nd, and........hope for the best?

If I start from 1st or 2nd gear, the idea is that the autoclutch will engage the rest of the plates via centrifugal force so I don't need to upshift? What about downshifting...would I still use my shift lever for that or is it automatic also?

This whole concept is new to me and I've never ridden an autoclutch-equipped bike before...

The external adjuster is to adjust what RPM the clutch engages,

more tension= higher RPM.

You will still need to change gear as normal,as the revs go down it will disengage the clutch,so you just shut off the throttle before you change gear.

I have only had a rekluse on for 6-8 rides,once it is set up it is great.Rekluse vets feel free to chip in if i am wrong.

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Once you set your external adjuster tension, be sure to give the bike a while to warm up. Sometimes the engagement doesnt feel correct right off the bat, but let er warm up, then adjust your tension/engagement accordingly. :applause:

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well, the thing appears to be working okay...rode it around the block a couple times.

how much 'creep' should there be, if any, at idle while in gear? Creeping = too tight an install gap, potentially....is that right? Assuming the plates will got hot & expand, I'm assuming creepage would be worse if the gap is too tight (?).

I don't want to burn the plates up, so what's a good rule of thumb to use for adjusting this? I think my gap was around .86mm at install, and they say to ride the bike around for 20 minutes and then check it again. Is that 'easy riding', or is it tearing around and running it up and down through all the gears?

Also, what's up with these "5 tungsten balls" everybody keeps talking about? What benefit do they serve?

Thanks guys.

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Nevermind...I found my break-in instructions lying behind the toolbox....I'm good to go....

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