The BEST engine oil is ???? Syn vs Conv.

Not sure what schedule you use now, elk...

I think that the price of the Rotella makes it so you can probably change it out every ride or two without breaking the bank, and that should provide you with great protection and piece of mind for your engine.

I probably wouldn't run ANY oil past about 6 run hours. And I hate to let one go that long...too many contaminants there even if the oil is still in grade.

I like to clean my filters with brake cleaner in the spray can. They should be fine unless you see the mesh start to change shape.

Great thread by the way

I use Motul 5100 ,i dont know what a quart is but it costs me $50.00 for a four litre pack here in Australia.

And throw away oil filters cost about $13.00

Change both about every 8 hours might be expensive but at least i know my bike is clean inside the engine.

alright thanks jay, i haven't been changing my oil that often right now but with the rotella i think i will go with what you said only because the oil is cheaper and i know my bike deserves (and needs) good maintenance. (not that i have been neglecting it now)

Stock oil filters and oem's are reusable.
OEM type brass mesh elements filter to about 70-80 microns (not great in the least), and are relatively delicate. You cannot see changes in the mesh great enough to cause the filter to allow particles of 120-150 microns to pass, and this kind of damage is easily done if you aren't prudent.

The Scotts stainless mesh media filters to 35 microns absolute and is quite rugged by comparison.

Not sure what schedule you use now, elk...

I think that the price of the Rotella makes it so you can probably change it out every ride or two without breaking the bank, and that should provide you with great protection and piece of mind for your engine.

I probably wouldn't run ANY oil past about 6 run hours. And I hate to let one go that long...too many contaminants there even if the oil is still in grade.

I like to clean my filters with brake cleaner in the spray can. They should be fine unless you see the mesh start to change shape.

Has anyone ever heard of Rotella causing rough shifting or a clutch to not operate properly. I switched a couple of rides ago on my 02 426 and am having some really rough shifting now. It seems that my clutch is not totally disengaging. Anyways, this may have nothing to do with Shell Rotella but I am wondering?

Thx

I use the rotella in my 400 and haven't noticed anything strange :thumbsup:

srhines67,

When a bike is in new condition, just about any choice of oil is going to give you very similar feel and results.

Once things start to wear a bit, some oils can actually make the shifting or clutch action seem a bit different. This is almost never because of the oil choice. It is almost always due to the fact that there is an underlying problem. The make-up of some oils may actually exagerate the feeling of a notchy shift, or a clutch slip, but again it almost always due to a mechanical issue, rather than the choice of oil.

i will greatly disagree with that statement Jay.

the "new" Valvoline Motorcycle Specific 20w50 was absolutely horrid in my bike. clunky notchy shifting, missed shifts, clutch action was grabby, lurchy...ug! all this from a JASO MA oil. dumped that crap out. poured in Quaker State High Horsepower synth blend 20w50. shifting was smooth as butter. back to back tests at the same track. btw, neither stayed in grade. if i had to pick one of the two, the car oil would get the nod every time and twice on race day!

Valvolines VR1 20w50 is a wonderful oil, stayes in grade even. their Motorcycle Specific 20w50 is a horror. same company, vastly different results.

OEM type brass mesh elements filter to about 70-80 microns (not great in the least), and are relatively delicate. You cannot see changes in the mesh great enough to cause the filter to allow particles of 120-150 microns to pass, and this kind of damage is easily done if you aren't prudent.

The Scotts stainless mesh media filters to 35 microns absolute and is quite rugged by comparison.

I DISAGREE!!!! (just kidding )

The make-up of some oils may actually exagerate the feeling of a notchy shift, or a clutch slip, but again it almost always due to a mechanical issue, rather than the choice of oil.

try using ATF in a two stroke gearbox. I was told it was "mechanical" and not the oil.....I switched back from ATF to conventional oil.....problem gone. With ATF it would jump out of gear. (This is an 05 YZ250 2-smoke I am talking about). The guys that told me "your bike has a mechanical problem" were dead wrong. Just wanted to state that for the record.

Now...tell me this is irrelevant because I am on a whimpy two-smoke....I am waiting.

My point is....oil does make a difference. If not...then we are all stupid and the manufacturers of oil have made millions of dollars on us by developing diffent oils.

(BTW>...I love this useless discussion... :thumbsup::D:D:D)

It's only useless, Satch, because you have it in your mind that all you know is all there is to know.

Thing is...if ATF were such a horrid fluid in a YZ250, why do we not hear of people with the same bike making broad statements about how not to use ATF in them?

I know for a fact that there are many folks riding yz250's using ATF.

Could it be maybe you used a totally different type of ATF than what is recommended for a wetclutch situation? ie..TypeF

Could it be that there was indeed some mechanical issue causing the difference in feel?

Apparently all you needed was to have the feeling come back when you switched oils, but can you actually claim "dead wrong" with no more than that?

Are you certain your plates weren;t galzed a bit? Or perhaps the shift actuator arm lost a roller bearing? When something is truely amiss, it only takes very little in some situations to exagerate the condition.

Until you make a true forensic investigation of such an issue, all you can really do is speculate and be part of this sort of discussion. To think you have it all figured out, to a point that you can call this discussion useless, is somewhat ignornat.

It's only useless, Satch, because you have it in your mind that all you know is all there is to know.

nah...I just share real experiences with others that ride. I am not here to sell anything.....

Satch, I tried the atf in my 06 yz 250 and did not like it either. The problem I had was similar to yours.

I do not care if the atf is the greatest lube ever invented. My bike shifts like crap with it in there. I did use the type f atf.

I wanted it to work. The price is excellent. The bike shifts decently with rotella t and excelent with the hinson oil. I found a case of Hinson oil at my favorite freight damage store. I paid 59 cents a quart for it.

When my cheap supply of hinson oil runs out I will probably buy more at the regular price. The tranny and clutch feel great with it in there.

Does anyone know about Motul 5100? It is a synthetic blend with Esters. That's about the best I can get locally unless I spend some serious money.

Check out REDLINE OIL the best. Run it in my 525KTM 03 2200 miles.

Is is possible to clean the brass yamaha oil filters and reuse them. They get really pricey after a while.

nah...I just share real experiences with others that ride. I am not here to sell anything.....

No, what you are doing is selling your pissy attitude in a thread that you feel is useless to begin with. Why even bother if the thread is useless?

Are you implying I am here to sell something?

Check out REDLINE OIL the best. Run it in my 525KTM 03 2200 miles.

Redline makes some excellent oil for sure.

I use redline transmission oil in my Landcruiser transfer case and it is magic there. It helps keep the temp down even when doing hard work in sand dunes.

So what Redline oil do you use in a bike?

If you are going to pay a higher price for oil, it might as well be a good one. Redline has excellant oils. @ $9qt. for a polyol ester synthetic that is chock full of moly it is probably as good an oil as you can find.

Their 10w-40 and 20w-50 are fine for use in bikes. Many are scared of the moly thing, but users will tell you it's not an issue whatsoever.

Heavy load and high heat I would use the latter. For extended use, I don't think you could find a better oil MA rated or otherwise.

It's just too expensive and not as readily available as other oils.

Too many excellant oils on the shelf at WalMart...or MustafaMart (shrug)

I guess I am the only one out here using Phillips X/C 20-50 aviation oil in an 01 yz426. I ride trails, based in Las Vegas (hot) not too hard. I have hit the rev limiter only once since owning the bike (9 mo). Oil changes get done around the 10hr mark. I also run 100LL fuel. In the airplane, with a Lycoming 0360 (180 hp and 360 ci displacement with a 2700 rpm red line and 8 qts capacity) oil changes occur at the 50 hr mark. (apples and oranges)

Any comments on this oil or recommendations of labs to use, I am willing to send in samples to help increase the knowledge base.

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