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paul69

suspension set up

12 posts in this topic

Hello can any one tell me how to set up the suspension on my 2002 WR426F,i am about 78kilos about 160pounds i think, i ride on sand tracks and dunes and i think my mate said also whoops (bumpy tracks up and down).

also i think my carby may have a slightly blocked jet around mid revs it misses abit ,trying to ride on the road at the speed limit is a bit hard but as soon as you open it up it clears , which jet would this be?

Thanks

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Suspension settings are subjective...you have to put it where you like it. It's all about trial and error. With your weight, you shouldn't have to change any components, just set your sag properly and then adjust the dampers until the bike feels right.

Middle throttle is controlled mainly by the pilot and the needle. The TPS also may have something to do with the stutter. Disconnect it and see what happens before you start messing with the jets. If you don't have a manual, get one and read it before you type another word or pick up a wrench..SC

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Like Clark4131 said set your sag to 100mm and set your fork and shock compression and rebound clickers to stock settings and then ride your bike. Let us know how your bike responds when riding through whoops, does it feel to hard or too soft, etc.

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Hello can any one tell me how to set up the suspension on my 2002 WR426F,i am about 78kilos about 160pounds i think, i ride on sand tracks and dunes and i think my mate said also whoops (bumpy tracks up and down).

also i think my carby may have a slightly blocked jet around mid revs it misses abit ,trying to ride on the road at the speed limit is a bit hard but as soon as you open it up it clears , which jet would this be?

Thanks

Sounds to me you are rich on the needle a bit. Lower a clip and she'll be right. Don't touch TPS. It won't hurt to take the carby off and give it a good clean out with carb cleaner / brake cleaner / contact cleaner (it is all the same crap) while you are there.

With you being 78kg's, try backing off the shock bound and rebound a bit after setting the sag properly. The suspension was fairly unbalanced with the 426's. You really want the front and back to move at the same speed. Change the fork and shock oil too, or pay someone to do it for you. You won't believe the difference this makes to your suspension.

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I disconnected the tps and now i can sit on the speed limit with no missing, also how many clicks are there on the forks, my friend say i need to stop the front end from diving into the sand ,on the bottom of the forks there are allen key bolts are these adjusters too or just the small screw on top?

Thanks for your replies.

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I disconnected the tps and now i can sit on the speed limit with no missing, also how many clicks are there on the forks, my friend say i need to stop the front end from diving into the sand ,on the bottom of the forks there are allen key bolts are these adjusters too or just the small screw on top?

Thanks for your replies.

Yes the forks have two adjusters. The top sets compression and the bottom rebound. As stated before change the shock oil first and then I would try about 9 to 12 clicks out as a base and go from there. I run mine at 8 but I weigh 202. These big thumpers tend to dive in soft stuff and it's hard to avoid. Just keep you weight back and some throttle at all times and what ever you do don't chop the throttle, the results aren't fun :applause:

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Yes the forks have two adjusters. The top sets compression and the bottom rebound. As stated before change the shock oil first and then I would try about 9 to 12 clicks out as a base and go from there. I run mine at 8 but I weigh 202. These big thumpers tend to dive in soft stuff and it's hard to avoid. Just keep you weight back and some throttle at all times and what ever you do don't chop the throttle, the results aren't fun :applause:

Rebounds's on the top and compression is on the bottom.

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread paying a professional to valve/set up your suspension is definitely a worthwhile move.

I've only recently done it and it's honestly the best money I've ever spent on the bike. Couldn't believe the difference. Can now ride heaps quicker for longer. Now a dream to ride.

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As mentioned elsewhere in this thread paying a professional to valve/set up your suspension is definitely a worthwhile move.

I've only recently done it and it's honestly the best money I've ever spent on the bike. Couldn't believe the difference. Can now ride heaps quicker for longer. Now a dream to ride.

:applause::D:prof::prof::bonk::lol::p:applause::ride::eek::eek::eek:

Most people will never know............................

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is it safe to leave the TPS disconnected?? The bike is better on the road this way no missing.

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is it safe to leave the TPS disconnected?? The bike is better on the road this way no missing.

Why don't you just jet your bike properly in the first place and there will be no problem? :excuseme:

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I dont see why it wouldnt be safe to disconnect the TPS. The TPS is designed to detect the load on the engine and send that to the ignition/CDI to retard/advance the timing. I have it disconnected on my quad and I only ride the dunes with it (big loads) and have no problems.

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in the dunes make sure your tires are in the 8psi front and rear and you should be golden w/ that combination... the front end will float a little more.. :excuseme: I only ride sand and this is how my wr426 is set pressure wise... Suspension wise... stock... just played with the clickers to help prevent bottoming and that was it.. :bonk: I still have a little tail swap when hittin the whoops at a good clip though..

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