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Malone6

Replacement Float bowl screws on Keihin FCR

15 posts in this topic

I bought and installed the GYTR AIS removal kit and found that one of the float bowl screws on the FCR was striped right from the dealer (the one that does double duty securing the idle adjustment knob support) . I tried the hammer tap trick but the head was too stripped to help. Luckily I was able to access the pilot jet from the jet access cap on the bottom of the carb.

Does anyone know of any trick replacement screws, preferably allen keyed, for the Keihin FCRs??? :applause:

Considering that I'll be removing float bowl on a some what regular basis to fool with the jetting it would be cool to have something more stout than the crappy phillips screws already on the carb. :D

Any info would be appreciated....

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A set of semi-needle nose vise grips will get that screw out whe you're ready. The same screw stripped on me when I jetted my bike.

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I took a dremel tool and cut the screw head to make it fit a nice flat head screw driver. Then, I replaced it with a hex head bolt so I could use my ratchet!

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Common problem. It it weren't stripped from the dealer you would have eventually done it yourself. We all seem to.

I used a pair of needle nose visegrips and as mentioned above replaced all with allen head screws from local home improvement store.

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Phillips head fasteners are garbage. :applause: How many of us have faught and struggled to get those things out of various locations?

The only thing that a Phillips head works well on are drywall screws.

Allen head socket capscrews are the way to go-the guy who invented these (oddly enough named Allen!!) should have his a** kissed 'til he barks like a fox. :D:prof::prof:

I can't replace Phillips heads fast enough on any of my equipment.

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I took an impact screwdriver with a correct bit and losened them that way the first time I took them out. It sunk in deep enough that they have came out pretty easy since then. A #2 philips take them right out and doesn't even start to strip.

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Twiles,

You've got more skills than I. I stripped them so bad I had to use needle nose vise grips to get them off....Most of this was my fault. I was getting way to excited about riding the bike unplugged! I replaced all of them stupid screws with bolts from home Depot.

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uuuummmm, I have a stoopid question...

On my FCR, I stripped out the same screw, but tit was the tapped hole in the carb body. I have not been able to find a heli-coil or tine-sert in 4mm x .7 pitch. Have any of you needed to do this?

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anyone have the size and length of the carb screws off the top of their noggin?

id like to go ahead and just order some stainless hex screws right now off the net.

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uuuummmm, I have a stoopid question...

On my FCR, I stripped out the same screw, but tit was the tapped hole in the carb body. I have not been able to find a heli-coil or tine-sert in 4mm x .7 pitch. Have any of you needed to do this?

Similar problem, different application I had to JB weld a stud in the hole and use a nut instead of tapping and heli-coiling. Might work if you can't find the right size. "Southern Engineering" will require duct tape and bailing wire.

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ARin,

The bolts are M4 x 0.7 pitch-just ask for M4; 0.7 is the common pitch for this diameter.

The length is 12mm, but you can use slightly longer if required.

I replaced mine with Allen head capscrews lie the ones on the slide cover at the top of the carb.

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Been there with the stripped phillips screw head in the carb. For what it's worth, the local dealer, who sells both Yamaha and Suzuki , gave me Suzuki screws--- said the Suzuki screws were "better" than Yamaha screws. Also, taking those carb screws out requires a good screwdriver, not the one you regularly use as a drift punch, perfect alignment on the screw and lots of pressure.

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My friend held the carb for me while I beat the impact screwdriver into the screw. I hit all of them 3 or 4 times and they came out. I stripped one of them before I grabbed the impact. It still took the striped one out after a few good hits.

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