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Grey Wire


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Here is a pic of my 2006 WR450. This is shown with the gas tank removed, left side of bike.

The large, 6-pin connector in the center is the one. You can see that I pulled the pin back out of the connector (didn't cut anything) and folded the wire back into the black plastic sleeve around the wire harness. No need to insulate it or anything, it just goes to ground anyway. If you do it this way, it can always be restored to the stock configuration. Not sure why anyone would, though.

You'll see that the space on the connector is now filled with a bit of black silicone for waterproofing.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c315/bcs1/P2171235.jpg

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The US WR250F comes with the gray wire from the CDI connected to ground. All the other 250Fs have this wire disconnected. There are two different maps (spreadsheets) in the WR/YZ bikes. One is for the YZ and is selected if the gray wire isn't grounded. The other is for the WR and is selected if the gray wire is grounded. With the gray wire connected an alternate ignition-timing map is used. The �WRF� map retards the timing at the mid and upper RPM so that the bike will run with the stock baffle and throttle limiter installed (see link with actual engine data analysis by TT member McGrath). If you remove the baffle and alter the throttle stop you should also remove the grey wire. Most people do not like the alternate mapping and disconnect it, especially after doing the other free mods. Initially it was advocated to cut the wire, and many riders have. There are disadvantages to cutting the wire. First if you may initially cut the wrong wire. Second, if you decide at a later time to return to the original ignition-timing map it is more difficult. Most now advocate simply disconnecting the wire from the connector and taping it off with electrical tape. For more information about this topic see CDI 101 or the Grey Wire thread in the ThumperTalk archives.

By the way yamahaxt, was that you last saturday out at the mounds hitting those doubles? I allready thought your bike was modded from the way you were riding!

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On the WR250F the grey wire mod is the way to go, But on the 450 its not that necessary to do it, If your riding real hilly ground then you want smooth power from the 450 keep it connected, If riding open fast ground then the mod isn't needed at all cause your on the pipe more.The mod only effects the power down low after half throttle the mod does nothing.

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Hey guys!

My understanding was that the "grey wire" was put in to retard the timing through the mid-range to help the bike run better with the half-throttle stop and to help with emmissions. If that's true, wouldn't disconnecting it help the mid-range performance once you start running a YZ-spec throttle stop?

I'm new to this whole dirtbike world and absolutely LOVE my WR450! I have about 7 hours on the bike and just picked up the AIS Removal Kit from my dealer. I think I want to install a switch with my grey-wire mod... just the way I am.

I can't wait to see how much difference there really is!

~Dave

BTW, thanks for all of the great info on this forum! :ride:

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It has been reported here that if you installed a switch, you can't switch back and forth; the logic in the ignition is based on the circuit at the time the motor is started. (you might want to do a search and get the full version of the story).

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As I understand it, the ignition timing map is selected once the CDI is booted up. (Pressing the power button). After that to reselect the timing map the bike would need turned off and powered down, flip your switch and restart.

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I re-connected my gray wire to see if it would make a big difference. It was more mellow up top for sure, but still fast enough for the type of riding that I do.

I've never been the "rip it up" type of rider. I am mostly enjoying the view. So I don't really need to go 90mph. That isn't much fun for me. I tend to prefer single track trails through the desert. I'm not going that fast.

If I were riding in other areas, it might be different. I can see the need to have a grey wire switch.

I still have my pipe and jets installed, so I am sure I am getting much more power than stock, especially off idle where the grey wire doesn't matter.

I did notice how smoothly I went up hills. The bike has the torque and I didn't worry so much about throttle/clutch mistakes.

Cutting the grey wire is a preference I guess.

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Rooster has the right slant IMO.

Push the wire out and block the hole with sealant, like in the pic someone (sorry) provided. The looms on the 06 are on the right side but the grey wire is in the middle of the clear plug, same position.

Definitely more of a hit from Mid to high RPM - anyone for clearing doubles?

Yes, the gray wire is an earth that is read at CDI power up (switch on) and connot be switched "on the go". To have a "dual" curve readily available you have to go to an aftermarket system such as Vortex. Now, they have some really smooth :ride: selectable curves as well as FULL POWER :banana: mode at the flick of a switch. Specially made for YZs and WRs too...

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Any pictures of the Grey Wire on the WR450 2006? So I can disconnect it.

See here:

06 450F CDI with Grey Wire disconnected:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j210/OneToGo/GreyWire001.jpg

P.S. No need to remove CDI! I had mine off for other reasons.

1. Pull apart connectors (grey wire is in centre of clear one)

2. Push on wire PIN with flat blade screw driver OR depress inside retaining clip and gently pull wire - it will pop out

3. Seal with silicone - mine is white in pic.

4. Tape or shrink wrap the exposed Grey Wire (mine is shown bare)

5. Re-fasten plugs and reassemble bike

PRESTO - grey wire Mod

:ride:

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