Steering Bearings

I cant believe how tight the steering stem bearing is.. There is no way the cone bearing is coming off. I have tried heating the race up and driving it off with a steel punch and the darn thing wont budge. Any tricks to getting it off before I take it into work and cut it off? I hope the new bearings don't go on this tight :ride:

If you are refering to the lower bearing, it requires a press to remove and to install, along with proper fixtures.

i always cut the old one off, stick the steering stem in the freezer then put the new one on, never used a press

i always cut the old one off, stick the steering stem in the freezer then put the new one on, never used a press

AND....put the new bearing in the oven-200F-250F.

The stem will contract with the cold and bearing will expand with the heat-new bearing will slide right on.

The lower bearing does need to be pressed off-a decent auto shop can do this for $10 or so.

P.S.-Learn from my mistakes-don't use mamma's good oven mitts.

AND....put the new bearing in the oven-200F-250F.

The stem will contract with the cold and bearing will expand with the heat-new bearing will slide right on.

The lower bearing does need to be pressed off-a decent auto shop can do this for $10 or so.

P.S.-Learn from my mistakes-don't use mamma's good oven mitts.

Slight fix. Cold expands. Heat contracts. That's why it slides in after. Then once you give them time to sit, they mend themselves together after the cold/heat wear off. ;P

Slight fix. Cold expands. Heat contracts. That's why it slides in after. Then once you give them time to sit, they mend themselves together after the cold/heat wear off. ;P

AHHH-maybe you meant heat causes expansion and cold causes contraction.

Because the way you put it, the triple clamp would go in the oven and bearings in the freezer. I've put together a few rear diffs, and carrier bearings go in the oven and carriers in the freezer. Other way around and they'd never go, even with a press

When using a press, here are some points to watch:

When removing the stem,

>The stem must be pressed down out of the clamp.

>protect the threads by running the top nut down even with the top thread

>support the lower clamp with a broad faced tubular object like an old bearing race. Bear in mind that the stem has a wire stop ring on the bottom of it that must not be allowed to drag against whatever fixture is supporting the clamp as the stem exits the bore. The groove in the stem would be damaged if that were to happen. Keep the support as close to the bore edge as possible while still allowing clearance. Press the stem out of both the clamp and bearing simultaneously.

When replacing the stem,

> The later YZF steering stems are aluminum. Smear the surface that presses into the lower clamp with some anti-seize compound and install the stem into the clamp by itself. Then press the bearing on.

When installing the bearing,

>When a press or bearing driver is used, it is absolutely important that the end of the driver has a large enough inside diameter to clear the stem, but even more so that the outside diameter is small enough to clear the roller cage, if, as in most tapered bearings, the cage extends up above the end of the race.

Thanks for the tips... I took the entire front end into work today wheel and all, and heated the inner race up red hot and managed to get it off. I didn't really feel like taking the whole assembly apart so it worked out OK. Just one thing I am unsure about is wether or not the steering should have a light drag on it or should it move very freely but not loose? It seems if I tighten the slotted nut to the 5fp then the top nut to the 105fp it feels too tight.

It seems if I tighten the slotted nut to the 5fp then the top nut to the 105fp it feels too tight.
This happens because the act of tighten down the top nut reverses the load on the threads of the lower nut and pushes it down an amount equal to the clearance in the threads, tightening the preload on the bearings in the process.

When finished, the steering should have a light drag, but feel smooth. Sitting on a stand, it would be about right when it will barely stay in position when turned halfway to the lock. If you have a beam type inch pound torque wrench and enough step-up adapters to put a 30mm socket on it, you can check that it has around 10 in/lb of torque needed to keep it (not start it) rotating. This should be done with the steering head as near vertical as possible, and the front wheel off.

What do you use to tighten the castle nut? Did you buy the special Yamaha wrench?

I've yet to grease mine, but I'm not sure how to tighten that castle nut!

Any pictures would be great :ride:

I just paid my local shop $20 to remove the old bearing and install the new one....beer money for day...

The "castle" nut, actually a spanner, or ring nut, can be run down with a good pair of "channel lock" pliers (actually "water pump" pliers, but that term is older than me) or a punch.

O.K. Thanks.

I have no problem rebuilding an engine or greasing the shock linkage, but I've been hesitant on messing with the steering bearings.

It seems it is not too difficult :ride:

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