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hoghead450

Wr450 - Deep Creek crossings

8 posts in this topic

On a WR450, what is the first item on the bike that will give trouble you when you ride through a deep creek crossing? Between my son and I we have a 2003 and a 2004 WR450. This past weekend we went through several deep crossings and during the last crossing (also the deepest one) both bikes stalled at the exact same time in about 12+ inches of water. We were riding fairly quick in first gear (about 10 MPH) and were splashing some water up.

We pushed the bikes up onto dry ground and kicked slowly (no water in the cylinder). After 4 or 5 kicks, both bikes started and ran fine.

I am thinking something electrical got wet, and then quickly dried up from the engine heat, allowing a quick re-start.

Any thoughts on what happened, and what can be done to prevent it from happening again. Based on this, I am not too impressed with the waterproofing on this bike. Please advise of any waterproofing tips for this bikes, if there are some. My old bike was a RMX250, and it was almost like a submarine.

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I ride through water over the seat sometimes, it doesn't stop.

The temp change could have killed it, common problem on 2 strokes.

The only thing you got to really worry about is water entering the engine through the airbox. Just don't drop your bike in the water with the engine running.

The bike is waterproof enough as is.

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The problem is all of those small clear hoses that exit in front of the swing arm. On my 03, there are two of them that have a tee in them. Route one leg of those hoses up by the air box. This will let the carb get vented properly and you wont have that stalling problem anymore. Why they ran all of them down and didn't put those two up in the first place is beyond me.

Jim

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The problem is all of those small clear hoses that exit in front of the swing arm. On my 03, there are two of them that have a tee in them. Route one leg of those hoses up by the air box. This will let the carb get vented properly and you wont have that stalling problem anymore. Why they ran all of them down and didn't put those two up in the first place is beyond me.

Jim

Are you saying that the carb was not vented properly due to the fact that those hoses were underwater? If one leg from each of the hoses is moved up higher into the airbox / under the seat the stalling will quit?

Also, I have just read where the valave cover vent needs to be routed up into this area as well. Is that correct?

Thanks

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If one leg from each of the hoses is moved up higher into the airbox / under the seat the stalling will quit?
It helps.
Also, I have just read where the valave cover vent needs to be routed up into this area as well. Is that correct?

It is also an idea. I hate mine in the airbox, and routed it to where it is on your bike. It just puts crap on your airfilter and recycles smog.

If you are only going in shallow water, I wouldn't be worried at all.

How much is 12+ inches?

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Are you saying that the carb was not vented properly due to the fact that those hoses were underwater? If one leg from each of the hoses is moved up higher into the airbox / under the seat the stalling will quit?

Also, I have just read where the valave cover vent needs to be routed up into this area as well. Is that correct?

Thanks

Yup, basic vapor lock. Just route the two hoses that cross the top of your carb up into the air box. Problem solved.

Dodger

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For you guys with 2003 and newer bikes, you have to contend with carb/breather hose routing and a side opening airbox that would seem to be hard to seal. My '99 has a top opening airbox that is for all intents and purposes sealed everywhere except on top. So it is a lot easier to waterproof my bike than yours. So my advice only concerns the hoses.

I have had the carb vent hoses and the valve cover breather hose routed into my airbox for years. There are pluses and minuses to doing this.

On the plus side, my bike will run through water all the way up to the top of the airbox and even deeper if I'm moving fast enough. The wake from the front of the bike will push the water aside enough to not get into the airbox. We have a lot of swamps around central Florida and I have been on day long swamp rides where mine was the only bike out of large groups of riders to not stall out going through deep water. Also, I don't get oil dripping from the breather hose onto the floor of my garage after a ride.

The minus side of this is what's going on in the airbox. First, I get all the oil that would have dripped onto the ground all over the bottom of the airbox. I keep the airbox drain hole plugged just so I don't get oil all over the swingarm, so I have to mop out an once or two of oil after each day of riding. No big deal but it's extra work. The biggest pain is what happens if I dump the bike. Ever turned the carb upside down? When you do, gas comes right out of those vent hoses. In this case, it flows right into the airbox. And it goes everywhere- especially all over the air filter. Try starting a bike with a gas-soaked air filter. If I don't get the bike picked up fast enough, a lot of gas gets in there and I have to take the filter out and wring it out and try to sop up any remaining gas that's still in the airbox. Oh, and it's now all mixed with the oil in the airbox so now it's a big mess.

I have gotten to the point that I only water-route the carb hoses when I am pretty sure there will be water where we are riding. Otherwise, I keep the hoses routed normally. It's only about a ten minute job either way.

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I keep my 2 upper vent lines from each side of the carb routed to the top of the air box along the sub frame top rail and it never gives me any trouble.

The lines point down into the box where the snorkel snaps in. :crazy:

You will always stall on longer deep crossings if you dont keep 2 of the lines routed up high. :ride:

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