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HawkGT

Moriwaki header/radiator clearance

15 posts in this topic

Just installed my new Moriwaki Zero exhaust system. The build quality on this system is superb! I feel like I stole it at $399.99. But anyway, the install went smooth except for two things: 1) the mid-pipe was touching the little tab that sticks up on the case cover--the little piece for tapping the cover off from the opposite side. I ground a few millimeters of the top of the tab and that solved that. 2) The clearence between the right header and the right radiator is tight. With the lower mounting bolt installed, the two pieces just kiss each other. As a temporary fix I've left that bolt out and ran a zip-tie through the bolt hole. The zip-tie leaves the bolt holes offset a tad and provides enough clearence--but I don't like that as a permanent solution.

Who's got tips for shimming the right radiator forward a little. A quarter inch would do it, a half inch would be more than enough.

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:

p10100018xo.jpg

thanks!

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I've got loads of clearance for the radiator hose--I'm all lined up there. It's just the right header to right radiator clearance that's at issue. The radiator lower mounting bolt is not installed in my pic. I see you've got big rads so maybe that's not an issue with your settup.

Looking at yours gave me an idea though. Maybe I can just elongate the bolt hole in the radiator mounting tab so I can slide it forward a little...I'll have to investigate that...

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You have those rubber mounts to deal with. The area around the hole should have a raised area to hold the rubber mounts. It won't be good if you try to elongate the holes.

First, see if you can get the clearance you need by bending the mounting tabs just a tad. So that the right radiator angles forward a small bit.

The best solution (but the hardest) would be to make offset adapters. A thin (1/8" minimum) metal piece with two holes in it. One end bolts into the frame threads, the other end gets radiator tab. Use a bolt with a nylon nut or something. This will effectively move the radiator forward whatever the distance is between your holes.

This will also shim the radiator out just a bit. It may also foul the lower radiator shroud mount unless you can bend the radiator back a bit. Lots of things to consider here.

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Just installed my new Moriwaki Zero exhaust system. The build quality on this system is superb!

If'n ya don't mind my asking, where'd you get the Moriwaki?

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If'n ya don't mind my asking, where'd you get the Moriwaki?

My purchase was through Rev Limiter Racing. Price: $399.99 plus shipping ($16.50 I think). The 650R system is not listed on their website but when I called they confirmed they do have them. Turns out "have them" means Big Valley Honda has them and that is where my system was shipped from. Prior to placing my order I also called BVH. Price: $439.99 + $15.00 shipping. They said they had 6 or 8 systems on hand--maybe the last of them (??). RLR indicated no more where being imported--sales pitch maybe.

Customer service with RLR was tolerable (I have high standards for CS when spending disposable income on such things--I want my ordered items FAST). They responded quickly to my communications but I DID feel the need to contact them several times to figure out what was happening with my order. Took 8 days from the day I place my order until the system left BVH. Had I known RLR didn't physically have the system I might have just spent the extra $40 and ordered straight from BVH. Cheaper price or possibly faster shipping--take your pick.

Either way, all's well that ends well. Here's some pics:

p1010001resize0wk.jpg

p1010002resize8kk.jpg

p1010003resize7ye.jpg

p1010004resize6qs.jpg

p1010006resize1xj.jpg

The only problem is now I feel like I need head porting and big valves to take advantage of the flow potential of those headers--they are alot bigger. Some day.... With the spark arrester installed, it seems to plug things up enough to preserve most of the bottom end (sounds great with the SA). Tough to say for sure what's happening without a dyno... The notoriously unreliable seat of the pants tells me that I've lost a touch of low end (still has penty) but gained urgency through the mid-range and top. Whatever the case, I'm satisfied.

ETA: My crude measuring method puts the Moriwaki system at ~3 lbs less than the stock system with HRC tip.

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I was actually getting ready to order one of those.

Why on earth can't they just built the thing to fit in the first place? I mean, didn't Moriwaki have an XR on hand to figure out that there was a problem?

Or is this just "tolerance", and the next Moriwaki may fit fine?

How loud is this system compared to stock with drilled out tip?

4Takt

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I was using the stock system with the HRC tip. Then the spark arrestor screen broke out of the HRC tip so I was running a basically straight-through tip. The Moriwaki with the spark arrestor installed is much quieter and better sounding than my broken HRC tip. I'm almost sure it is also quieter than my HRC tip before it broke. I think the Moriwaki sounds perfect--not too loud or obnoxious, but not too quite either. It sounds like it means business but still allows you to get all over the throttle without scaring small children. It's just right.

As far as my clearance issue--dunno. It guess it's just a tolerance thing. Not only the tolerance of the pipe but the tolerances of different bikes too. I figure they decided to build the pipe so it just fit rather than compromising designed performance [shrug]. Or, maybe they designed the pipe with competition in mind and figured race bikes won't have stock radiators (BWB63 has tons of clearance there). The spark arrester is the only thing about the system that looks like an afterthought. You can't see it once installed though so I'm not knocking Moriwaki for that. Everything else looks like it is exactly as they meant it to be.

I'm sure I'll get it figured out...

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You have those rubber mounts to deal with. The area around the hole should have a raised area to hold the rubber mounts. It won't be good if you try to elongate the holes.

First, see if you can get the clearance you need by bending the mounting tabs just a tad. So that the right radiator angles forward a small bit.

The best solution (but the hardest) would be to make offset adapters. A thin (1/8" minimum) metal piece with two holes in it. One end bolts into the frame threads, the other end gets radiator tab. Use a bolt with a nylon nut or something. This will effectively move the radiator forward whatever the distance is between your holes.

This will also shim the radiator out just a bit. It may also foul the lower radiator shroud mount unless you can bend the radiator back a bit. Lots of things to consider here.

The raised area the locates the rubber grommet is a collar the fits in from the back side--not part of the radiators mounting tab itself. I'm pretty sure that elongating mounting tab hole will work, but I'll report back once I've tried it.

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It runs much better on a stock bike if you run the spark arrester. I would not port a stock XR650R! It really makes the engine lazy. I have bigger intake valves in my 680cc bike and it is cool but, for dirt it isn't good to port and polish this bike.

They do fit perfect. Moriwaki worked real close with Honda on this one. It is very quiet for the flow that it has and with the spark arrester it is quieter then the stock setup (with HRC tip).

I have been running one for two years and the one thing I do not like is that it tarnishes. It is sainless steal but, turns brown. Real brown when I ran it at Pismo by the beach.

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=971

All About the XR650R

http://xr650r.borynack.com/

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I need to run the OE compression ratio for now as I run through Mexico often, and the gas quality is somewhat variable. Thanks for the advice on the SA - I'm sure that bit of backpressure will help.

I have the big Fluidynes, so it's good to know the pipe fits.

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I was actually getting ready to order one of those.

Why on earth can't they just built the thing to fit in the first place? I mean, didn't Moriwaki have an XR on hand to figure out that there was a problem?

Or is this just "tolerance", and the next Moriwaki may fit fine?

How loud is this system compared to stock with drilled out tip?

4Takt

Akrapovic does. :crazy:

16760663-L.jpg

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Ok, I bought what was supposedly the last Moriwaki system in the country. According to BVH, there will be no more.

Got it yesterday and I am very impressed. That is one fine piece of equipment, and best of all, it fit perfectly without any issues.

My first riding impression is that it transformed the bike. I should have done this a year ago. I have the Edelbrock and an open side panel, still need some time to dial in the carb with the new exhaust. What needle did other Moriwaki/Edelbrock users end up with? With the #19 at sea level I am way towards the rich end of the settings, maybe I should use the next size up?

I may write up a review after some riding time.

The apparent volume is about the same as the stock exhaust with drilled out tip. Much quieter than I expexted. With the spark arrester in it's quieter still.

One small problem I ran into was that the tube of Moriwaki sealant that came with the pipe was dried out rock solid. I assembled everything without sealant and the fit is so perfect it doesn't leak anywhere. What regularly available sealant could I use in place of the Moriwaki paste, and should I even bother?

4Takt

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When you guys are replacing your exhaust sytems(read: header back) are you also replacing the copper exhaust gaskets that mate at the head? If not you may be in for a slight header leak and loss of performance.

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