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willnevergrowup

Right footpeg

37 posts in this topic

Hello,

Quick question-and sorry in advance for something I know has been covered here somewhere.

I am currently selling my "L" and buying a "R", because I want to do some Hare Scrambles,etc... I hear everyone talking about the right foot peg coming off and make sure to do a fix on this. What is the fix. Take it off and Locktite???? Where would I find this? Also it looks like I might have a line on a slightly used 2001 "R" anything else I should be concerned about on this year. Also does $2800 sound to high or is that good?(100%stock)

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Elmer

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I also have a 2001, great bike, no problems, you'll love it. Make sure your bike is uncorked, don't even ride without doing that. The procedure is desribed in the Yahoo xr650r group

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I have a 2000 model with the original footpeg/bolts. I've never had a problem with it. As PigRider said though, it does happen, something to look out for.

Also be aware of;

The clutch bushing on 2000-2001 models.

Loosening footpeg bolt.

None of the *issues* are expensive to fix, but can be expensive if they aren't fixed.

Check out http://www.xr650r.us/

and Yahoo XR650R group

Good luck.

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I just had my peg done at Animal House Designs. It looks great and was easy to install. Best $75.00 I've spent.

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I just had my peg done at Animal House Designs. It looks great and was easy to install. Best $75.00 I've spent.

did the footpeg fix myself .very easy to do .piece of flatstock ,bend it to fit ,acess to welder ,drillout foot peg hloes and bang youre riding again without that worry of youre peg snapping off at the wrong time !!!!!!! do the homework youreself ,cheap fix .

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Same here, did the fix myself after it broke on me, drilled and tapped both holes to 7/16" NFT and put stainless grade 8 bolts in, the front one i drilled all the way through and put a nut on the back side, that was 4 months afetr I bought the bike new, never had a problem since, do the clutch bushing(only $12) and the countershaft seal ($6), also buy a new kickstart retainer bolt, add some blue locktite and clean the threads in the shaft(that bolt like to come loose), and everything else is all standard maintinance. The price sounds bad to me, I'm looking to get mroe for mine out here, going in the trader next week for $3600, should go quick though as most in the trader are over $3800.

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If your pig comes with the 4 year warranty (since it is transferable from owner to owner), drilling the frame voids the warranty of the frame should anything ever go wrong with it during that 4 year period. Not all foot pegs break (maybe not 4% of them), but wait until it does and you are miles and miles from your truck. Riding back with your foot dangling or riding the break pedal will show you the wisdom. :thumbsup: A 49 mile trip thru the mountains and highways home with a fractured left wrist from falling after the peg broke cured me. :thumbsup:

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did the footpeg fix myself .very easy to do .piece of flatstock ,bend it to fit ,acess to welder ,drillout foot peg hloes and bang youre riding again without that worry of youre peg snapping off at the wrong time !!!!!!! do the homework youreself ,cheap fix .

Did the same thing...

After going through some 4 sets of bolts, I got REAL tired of breaking the damn thing off, so I saw the fix, and did it myself.

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Hello,

Quick question-and sorry in advance for something I know has been covered here somewhere.

I am currently selling my "L" and buying a "R", because I want to do some Hare Scrambles,etc... I hear everyone talking about the right foot peg coming off and make sure to do a fix on this. What is the fix. Take it off and Locktite???? Where would I find this? Also it looks like I might have a line on a slightly used 2001 "R" anything else I should be concerned about on this year. Also does $2800 sound to high or is that good?(100%stock)

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Elmer

Elmer, you are going to get a few ideas here...some say drill the front hole completely through, others to spend $75.00 on a bracket that is welded onto your peg mount and also requires you to drill through the forward bolt hole. I say DON'T DO IT!

There is a really simple way to cure this and I am surprised at all of the voodoo about this. The problem is the fact that you have the aluminum frame flexing from the weight put on the foot peg (poor design) and the aluminum flexes and allows the bolts to back out. The bolts I have seen that break loosened up first and then broke.

The best solution I have seen (and use myself) is to TAP the forward hole completely through, (DON'T DRILL THROUGH) install a longer allen bolt (grade 8) that will enable you to use a nylock nut on the exposed thread now on the inside of the frame. You now can tighten the forward mounting bolt and then have the security of the nylock nut "locking" the bolt in place on the backside. Use locktight on the rear bolt and go play Johnny Cambell. It will cost you the price of a tap and the longer bolt and nylock nut.

Good luck!

Oh...yes, you should always check every bolt

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Thanks for all of your ideas. How common is this happening? Or are most of you fixing it before it does? I can definitely see why you would want too.

Why hasn't Honda done anything about it?

Thanks again and have a Happy Easter!

Hopefully I will have a new or should I say different BRP next Monday!

Elmer out!

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Thanks for all of your ideas. How common is this happening? Or are most of you fixing it before it does? I can definitely see why you would want too.

Why hasn't Honda done anything about it?

Thanks again and have a Happy Easter!

Hopefully I will have a new or should I say different BRP next Monday!

Elmer out!

Have not done it. I don't worry about it. :thumbsup:

1013701-L.jpg

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Use locktight on the rear bolt and go play Johnny Cambell.

I wouldnt go play JC or henge as thats not their fix...

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The best solution I have seen (and use myself) is to TAP the forward hole completely through, (DON'T DRILL THROUGH) install a longer allen bolt (grade 8) that will enable you to use a nylock nut on the exposed thread now on the inside of the frame. You now can tighten the forward mounting bolt and then have the security of the nylock nut "locking" the bolt in place on the backside. Use locktight on the rear bolt

This is exactly what I said earlier, when I said drilled front hole through, I meant drilled larger as to accept the larger 7/16 tap for larger/stronger bolt, I would not reccomend just drilling the threads out and running just the nut on the backside.

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I wouldnt go play JC or henge as thats not their fix...

Kritter, what problems do you see with Potts solution?

4Takt

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This is exactly what I said earlier, when I said drilled front hole through, I meant drilled larger as to accept the larger 7/16 tap for larger/stronger bolt, I would not reccomend just drilling the threads out and running just the nut on the backside.

Understand and misread your post...I know some guys thet have drilled the threads out (neighbor). I just used a tap, the same thread size and pitch as stock (maybe 8X1mm but not 100% sure now) to cause as little damage to the material as possible on the frame.

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