ty davis neutral elim.

is anyone using this ty davis neutral switch/wiring assembly block off plate?

http://www.ziptyracing.com/Products/parts/ALL.htm

i ordered it and got it in today but was wondering what to disconnect and will i need to drain oil? well not so much the oil because i got the magnetic drain bolt too along with the air filter cage ring.

any feedback?

[This message has been edited by bonez34 (edited October 08, 2001).]

Out of curiosity why are you disconnecting the neutral sensor?

It is located just under the shift lever, black plastic with two screws and an enclosed set of wires coming from it that run along the frame towards the front of the bike, then up between the left rad. and frame, or thereabouts, up to the CDI.

So you will need to chase all those wires to find where to unplug them.

You don’t need to drain your oil, but if you ever plan on reinstalling the sensor you will need to keep the spring and tiny little rod that “operate” the sensor. If they don’t both fall out when you remove the sensor I suppose you could just leave them in there...

I guess the point is, there are two small moving parts behind the sensor, keep an eye out for them.

Finally, there is also an oring around the sensor, I’m guessing you will want to put this on the blockoff plate, unless it comes with one, to make sure it doesn’t leak.

Hope this helps.

You can block it off, as long as you have a 98-99. On the newer models, this switch is actually being used by the ignition, where it retards the timing in neutral, making the bike run cooler and quieter.

------------------

Josh

01' WR426

99' YZ400

87' FZR1000

Uh, like twist the throttle...

Josh, I don't ride around in neutral...you can cut the wires on newer models also.

Wouldn't the purpose of retarding the timing in neutral be to make it easier to start. I have alway had better luck starting it in neutral but thought it was just clutch drag or something. Had no idea there was a timing difference.

------------------

y2k wr, airbox lid removed, 180 main, 48 pilot, 426yz er needle,

wr timing, WB E-series S-bend w/ tapered head pipe

acerbis tank(yz), sdg seat(yz), scotts damper

I thought the neutral switch was an input to the rev limiter, lowers the limit w/ the bike in neutral...???

------------------

'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat, Mobil 1 15W-50.

Kev is Co-rect-o-mundo.

It has to do with limiting the RPM while in neutral for passing some sound test in Europe.

Bill

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99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, de-octopussed (Thanks Clark) EKP #4, 50PJ, 175MJ, 100PAJ and 65 SJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

But what is the benefit of cutting them?

ben

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2001 WR250F

White Brothers E Series Full exhaust

Panoram computer

Tap Bars

jet kit

YZ timing

Grey wire mod

Pro Rally hand guards

YZ plastic

to hell with it-it's gone!

who needs neutral anyway? if you're good with the left hand it's easy to start in gear. especially downhill!

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