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yamadoggy

New clutch problems...

10 posts in this topic

O.K. Guys, Last race i smoked the clutch in my 05 450. I mean smoked it. Looked and smelled like burnt toast when I replaced it. Replaced it with a DP clutch (my favorite parts guy said it was one of the best). So I've gone on a two rides with the new clutch. First ride was only about 25 miles. Second ride (yesterday) was a very agressive 60 miles. Now, usually, when the clutch breaks in a little, the lever will get some slop right? Not mine, it keeps getting tighter. I had to stop and loosen it three times yesterday to get some freeplay back into the lever. Any body have any ideas? When I replaced it, the basket and presure plat looked brand new still. I have another race on sunday, and need to get this fixed ASAP. Thanks everybody. Jason

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I think what you are experiencing is the same effect as a normal clutch but the reason it seems backwards is because you have a push rod style clutch from the opposite side of the motor. As your clutch breaks in it puts more pressure against the rod witch would tighten up the cable. If your clutch arm was on the right side of the motor this would be a pull type and it would create slack in the cable after break in. I would say you are ok. good luck at the race. :thumbsup:

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I too think you are good to go. What you described seems normal as my Barnett clutch did the same thing. After installing your new clutch and before your first ride, did you adjust the cable? Probably not! So your new clutch is in there with the old play from from the old clutch. Now your new clutch is breaking in, getting hot and swelling somewhat. If you think it through, the cable will be getting tighter not looser.

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I think what you are experiencing is the same effect as a normal clutch but the reason it seems backwards is because you have a push rod style clutch from the opposite side of the motor. As your clutch breaks in it puts more pressure against the rod witch would tighten up the cable. If your clutch arm was on the right side of the motor this would be a pull type and it would create slack in the cable after break in. I would say you are ok.
This seems right, especially with some of the aftermarket friction plates (except that it doesn't matter how the clutch is configured; it will tighten either way). A lot of them compress a lot more than the OEM ones do. (parts guys usually tell you that AM plates are better than OEM , but it's usually a matter of them being more profitable. Hinson is the only non-OEM plate I've used that I thought were as good of better than Yamaha 's). The result is that the pressure plate moves closer to the push rod, and the loss of free travel shows up at the lever. If you did not pre-soak the plates, that will have exaggerated the effect somewhat. Sounds normal, as long as it stops needing frequent adjustments soon.

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"If you did not pre-soak the plates, that will have exaggerated the effect somewhat."

Ever tear a brand new YZF apart before starting it. The clutch comes DRY from the factory! "SOAKING" the plates is a misnomer...they do not absorb the oil. Frankly IMO it is a waste of time. Starting the bike up with a dry clutch, then holding the clutch disengaged momentarily will accomplish the same thing as "coating" the plates with oil before assembly. Again, JMO Tdub

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Thanks guys- I'm really hoping you're right....As far as presoak or no presoak, I didn't. The instructions specifically stated that it was unnecesary. So I didn't. Again, Thanks for the help everybody. Jason

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