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yami racer

Putting in GYTR Fuel Screw

16 posts in this topic

I am going to get the GYTR Fuel screw. Is it as easy as unscrewing the stock one all the way so it falls out of the hole or do I have to remove the bottom of the carb to get it out?

Hoping to just unscrew it and replace with new one if possible.

Thanks for any help...

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It is as easy as unscrewing the stock one from the bottom of the carb and simply screwing the new one in, no taking the carb apart for this one..........just make sure that you be careful with the washer, spring and o-ring that comes out with it, you don't want to loose these little bastards as you gotta put them on your new fuel screw in the order that they were on the old screw. As a safety precaution I pre drilled a fine hole in the knob of my screw and safety wired it to the idle speed adjuster, just in case it decided it was going to back itself out under vibration, which I've heard alot of this happening on here, happy tuning..................

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When you do this............make sure the old O ring comes out before inserting the new screw. If it doesn't come out, no worries, take the O ring of the new screw. :thumbsup:

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As a safety precaution I pre drilled a fine hole in the knob of my screw and safety wired it to the idle speed adjuster, just in case it decided it was going to back itself out under vibration, which I've heard alot of this happening on here, happy tuning..................

Got a pic of that?

I've heard about that happening a lot too. It would be nice to have a little insurance.

What do you do, leave enough slack in the wire to let you turn it a few turns?

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I'd like to see a pic too how you wired it preventing it from backing out and still leaving it adjustable. I've got a zipty screw coming in this weekend.

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Got a pic of that?

I've heard about that happening a lot too. It would be nice to have a little insurance.

What do you do, leave enough slack in the wire to let you turn it a few turns?

Don't have a pic, but it's simple enough to do. Simply leave enough slack like you mentioned to allow you enough to turn it a few turns. :thumbsup:

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What happens if the screw comes out with the mixture just be really screwed up causing it to run very bad or will the engine just die?

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If the screw falls out it will effect your idle to 1/4 throttle (It will run like SH%$) It will be fine when your on the gas though.......

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Folks you all are making this way too complicated............if you install it correctly and are jetted right or even somewhat close, it will not fall out. :thumbsup:

1. unscrew the stocker

2. if the oring and spring do not come out with the stocker, screw in the aftermarket - it will catch the spring and oring...try it a few times. Pull it out to see

3. on mine the oring got caught in the hole trying to remove - I reinstalled the stocker and it came out fine.

4. install the oring and the spring on the aftermarket

5. screw all the way in and back out 1-2 turns per the instructions

6. set the fuel screw correctly with the idle

7. If the jetting causes you to back the fuel screw more than 2.5 turns or more out to run right - rejet with the appropriate jet...if not yep you risk it falling out

8. go ride - mine have never fallen out on 4 different bikes.

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Hmmm...Maybe I will stick with the stock one at this point and look into getting this tool:

http://www.pro-tecperformance.com/mstool.htm

Does anyone have one and does this thing work if so?

Before you blow that much cash on a tool that probably won't work as well as you want anyway, go to Harbor Freight and buy a pack of 2 of these for $.98...

pilot_screwdriver.jpg

Then go buy a Zipty after you use it a few times and see there is no substitute for an adjustable fuel screw...

I did.

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I'd like to see a pic too how you wired it preventing it from backing out and still leaving it adjustable. I've got a zipty screw coming in this weekend.

Blue,be sure to check that the zip tie really makes the motor stumble when turned all the way in!!I tried 3 different screws and got the same thing,NOTHING!!!finally went to the gytr and it was like night and day! When looking at them side by side there was about 1-2 mm difference in length!

How's the new bike?

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Blue,be sure to check that the zip tie really makes the motor stumble when turned all the way in!!I tried 3 different screws and got the same thing,NOTHING!!!finally went to the gytr and it was like night and day! When looking at them side by side there was about 1-2 mm difference in length!

How's the new bike?

Thanks for the tip. I've also heard you have to be careful not to overtighten these fuel screws cause you risk breaking the tip inside the carb.

I like the bike very much, best one I so far ever had.

One more month and the new Excels/Talons get mounted with S12's. They are all ready with rotors and rear sprocket, just begging to be mounted...

Winter riding with spikes has been fun, but now the snow is melting.

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