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flashback7270

best gearing for mostly dirt???

16 posts in this topic

hello i have a 1999 honda xr650l any ideas on the best gearing for mostly dirt riding also would i have to replace the chian? thanks alot im new to the tt and i cant say enough good things.

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I am running a 14/48 from 15/45 stock its been perfect. you could try a 13t counter for even lower gearing. No you wont have to change or lengthen the chain.

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The easiest first thing to do is just get a 14t front sprocket. Try it and see how it goes. If it's not enough then you could try a 13t front. It's quick and easy compared to changing the rear sprocket. When it comes time for a new chain get the 48t rear.

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14/48 with stock 110 chain. Works great in the dirt. Also ride 20 miles to work, up to 70 mph and no problems.

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hello i have a 1999 honda xr650l any ideas on the best gearing for mostly dirt riding also would i have to replace the chian? thanks alot im new to the tt and i cant say enough good things.

I'm running 13/45 with stock chain. I can just touch 90 (GPS) on level road ('00 650L uncorked, Mikuni flatside carb, WB E2 pipe). Next time I put a new tire on back, it'll get a 48 rear.

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Thanks, any ideas on best steel sprockets for 96 xr650l? Looking at Sunstar 14/48 steel. Also, best chain? Glad I checked here, lots of great info!

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I'm running 13/45 with stock chain. I can just touch 90 (GPS) on level road ('00 650L uncorked, Mikuni flatside carb, WB E2 pipe). Next time I put a new tire on back, it'll get a 48 rear.

Ewbish! How are you like your flat slide carb?

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Ewbish! How are you like your flat slide carb?

I've got the Mikuni T38. Vast improvement over the CV carb in throttle response and such, plus it's a lot easier to dial in. I think this is the same carb that XR's Only bores out to 41, not sure though.

Eric

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Wow, quick replies! One last question: which chain and sprockets are you running? Looking at a D.I.D. chain and sunstar steel sprockets.

DID chains are good, stock length should do you fine, unless you are trying to milk a little more wheel base (high speed stability) out of it, then go with the longer chain and cut it down so your chain is adjusted correctly at about 3/4th out on the adjuster, after break-in, you should be real close to all out on the adjuster (that'll give you about 1/2 in more wheel base and will help with straight line stability a bit). O-ring or non O-ring is a personal pref, I personally do not see any benefit if you maintain your chain, but if you are sometimes less than on top of lubing your chain, then an O-ring may be for you. Though I learned the hard way, don't clean your O-ring chain with a steel brush;-( Steel is fine for the countershaft, but I prefer Renthals on the rear. Between myself and my kids, I've got 9 dirtbikes to maintain, and I'm here to tell you, the aluminum Renthals wear about 3x longer than the best chrom-moly on the back. And chains run on them seem to last longer as well. Just my .02, but I try and buy what lasts, not to save money, but because going cheap means I spend my time wrenching on the kids bikes instead of enjoying mine!

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