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mulisha00

426 cam swap what exactly is needed for shims?

13 posts in this topic

Hey I hate to start another topic on this but honestly there is almost too much information to sort through.

I know this.

I need the following for my 02 yz426 to swap to the auto decomp cam.

Cam 5TA-12180-00-00

The plug that they sell in the store.

My question is what shims do I need? Should I buy the kit or just get the exact shim from my dealer after I get the cam in and valves checked. Is there a certain shim that most bikes use or does it vary from bike to bike? Thanks for all replys.

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You Can Go Ahead And Install The Cam Then Check The Valve Clearance They Are All Going To Be Different. Done A Few That Dont Even Need Adjusting

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There's really no good way to tell ahead of time which shims your gonna need. You need to install the new cam, measure and buy new ones accordingly.

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So don't buy the shim kit because I'll be wasting alot of money on shims I don't need is a correct statement.

Do most reputable motorcyle shops carry the shims? My local one is a full line dealer of all the four top brands and has installed many cams before. I just don't wanna have down time waiting for stuff.

So just to confirm I'm gonna get the cam and the plug from the TT store and get the shims from my dealer and thats everything I will need.

Any special feelers I will need?

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Correct, IMO the shim kit is a waste of money unless you own a CRF :thumbsup: or absolutely cannot wait if your dealer doesn't carry them. You've got a YZ so chances are you won't need to do this very often. :thumbsup: Most full service dealers will carry shims. They'll probably run you about $5 each. However, some dealers have a trade in policy where you can trade your old shims for new ones. I've got a few this way. It's worth asking.

As far as feelers go, I use the basic Craftsman feeler and it works fine.

Good luck.

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mulisha, if you take your old shims in, some dealers will even swap your old ones for the new ones you need at no cost. Enjoy the new bike after the mod, you'll love it!

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Alright fella's I'm a little ways into it. As of right now I don't have access to the manual because its on my computer back at school and I cannot download it to this one.

Need to know a few things.

So far I have removed the tensioner to swap the cam. Do I need to do anything to this when I put it back in? Is it adjustable or do I just put it back in with the right side facing the correct way up?

Do I put the tensioner in when I check the valves?

As of now I have the shim closest to the cam gear is a 181 and the other furthest from the gear is a 182. With a feeler using metric I can get an .45? under the lobe and its kinda a tad bit of resistance and a .50? will fit but too much resistance. So if I am correct I take the 182 and subtract the .22 for the correct valve clearance and add the .45 for the clearance now and I get 2.05. So if I did that correctly I need a 205 shim for that valve from the dealer tuesday when they open. Let me know if that sounds correct. Then when I get the new shim in place I should have a clearance of .20-.25 for the exhaust valve. Which is better to get closer to?

Also can someone give me the torque spec of the cam holders or girdles what ever they are called.

Also what is the spec for the intake side for the valve clearance?

Thanks to all and I'll post back when I get it done if I don't have anymore questions.

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Alright fella's I'm a little ways into it. As of right now I don't have access to the manual because its on my computer back at school and I cannot download it to this one.

Need to know a few things.

So far I have removed the tensioner to swap the cam. Do I need to do anything to this when I put it back in? Is it adjustable or do I just put it back in with the right side facing the correct way up?

Do I put the tensioner in when I check the valves?

As of now I have the shim closest to the cam gear is a 181 and the other furthest from the gear is a 182. With a feeler using metric I can get an .45? under the lobe and its kinda a tad bit of resistance and a .50? will fit but too much resistance. So if I am correct I take the 182 and subtract the .22 for the correct valve clearance and add the .45 for the clearance now and I get 2.05. So if I did that correctly I need a 205 shim for that valve from the dealer tuesday when they open. Let me know if that sounds correct. Then when I get the new shim in place I should have a clearance of .20-.25 for the exhaust valve. Which is better to get closer to?

Also can someone give me the torque spec of the cam holders or girdles what ever they are called.

Also what is the spec for the intake side for the valve clearance?

Thanks to all and I'll post back when I get it done if I don't have anymore questions.

I calculate you need a 200 shim if you measured .45. As long as you are in between .20-.25 don't worry about it. The torque specs are 7.2 Ft.lbs for the cam cap bolts. Standard clearance for Intake is .10-.15 . I emailed you about everything else.

:thumbsup:

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If you haven't already go on ebay and order the hole kite for 65.00 from Hot Cams. this way you will have all the sizes to get them just right. Take your time on the change of the cam. I just did mine a few weeks ago and love the change. Follow the directions to the T its pretty simple. :thumbsup:

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Alright back again with a good question. I went and got another set of feelers today by craftsman so I could check the intake side cause the others wouldn't check that low. Now I get .381 for the exhaust side clearance. . Can feelers be that far off? I trust the craftsman more than I do the OEM autozone brand ones. What do I do now. So what shim do I use now. 181 and 182 were the stock ones in there. I guess that do to the math you take 1.82-.225 then add .381 and get 1.97 so I should go with a 200 shim and a 195 one the 181 shim. Sound right?

Hopefully the shop will have them tom for me.

I'll buy the kit if I had to but don't see the point if you only need two shims and most shops will swap em for you. :thumbsup:

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Just wanted to say thanks to all that helped me through this mod. Grey thanks with the tensioner stuff also.

To anyone that thinks the 03 450 cam in a 426 is pointless obviosly has never rode or cranked one. I got everything done in short time once I knew what was going on thanks to you guys. Anyone that is thinking of doing it as I did for a year shouldn't wait another day. There is nothing hard about it at all. Just study over all the information posted here and you'll know exactly whats going on when you get inside.

NO MORE DRILL. Bike will fire up on first kick. Start in any gear. Also reguarding power. My bud who has rode a crf450 04 for two years and just got a 06 crf450 got off his bike and directly on to mine and did some starts with it. He was very pleased with the power compared to his.

Thanks again to all who helped. :thumbsup::thumbsup::bonk:

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Just wanted to say thanks to all that helped me through this mod. Grey thanks with the tensioner stuff also.

To anyone that thinks the 03 450 cam in a 426 is pointless obviosly has never rode or cranked one. I got everything done in short time once I knew what was going on thanks to you guys. Anyone that is thinking of doing it as I did for a year shouldn't wait another day. There is nothing hard about it at all. Just study over all the information posted here and you'll know exactly whats going on when you get inside.

NO MORE DRILL. Bike will fire up on first kick. Start in any gear. Also reguarding power. My bud who has rode a crf450 04 for two years and just got a 06 crf450 got off his bike and directly on to mine and did some starts with it. He was very pleased with the power compared to his.

Thanks again to all who helped. :thumbsup::bonk::confused:

Cool! Glad to see things worked out. Another satisfied customer or is that camswaper. :thumbsup:

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