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tunaeater

Wheels

9 posts in this topic

I've been really banging up my stock wheels on my XR 650r. I ride/race in Imperial valley and baja. Last month I put a big ding in the front rim and it broke when my friend tried to fix it on a vise. This happend after a ZR promotions race in Mexicali. The rim was replaced and I was off to the next race which was last weekend. After the race I noticed another big ding in the new front rim. This wasn't as big as the first one but very noticable.

I went prerunning in San Felipe the last 2 days and now I have another one in the front rim and 2 in the rear rim. This terrain is very rough with lots of submerged rocks,sections of crushed rocks and a bunch of hardcore stuff. I know I hit some stuff so hard it causes your hands to come off the bars and almost loose it. I know if I slowed down and was more carefull that would be the obvious answer but what about on race day ?

What can I do or what wheels are recommended for this type of riding/racing for this hard terrain ?

Thanks for the support and help....Paul

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There was a post here less then a year talking about this.

Its a place called "Rad Engineering" and the hub/wheel combos they sell are guaranteed for one year. Might be the ticket for you, I know its what BWB is running on his 680.

edit: found it, its Rad Manufacturing :thumbsup:

http://www.radmfg.com/wheelkits.htm

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I've always heard that Excels were the strongest rims. I think most racers use them. Maybe some of the other rims are good too, but Excels are definitely stronger than the stockers. Otherwise, make sure you have tires with a strong/stiff side wall and run some air pressure. Good luck.

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I'm running a Dunlop desert D739 A/T in the rear and a Pirelli MT 18 in the front. I run 15 psi in both tires.

I checked the rad website and they look very nice. I hope they are just as strong....Thanks Paul

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Those are just excel or eagle rums, depending what you buy... im sure you can get those at any bike shop... :thumbsup:
Includes RAD HEX or EAGLE hub, your choice of spoke & nipple kit, and RAD or Excel rim. Unassembled. See Lace & True.

says you can choose either the RAD or Excel rim.

btw, since we are on the topic of wheels, what size aftermarket rim does everyone run?

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I've been really banging up my stock wheels on my XR 650r. I ride/race in Imperial valley and baja. Last month I put a big ding in the front rim and it broke when my friend tried to fix it on a vise. This happend after a ZR promotions race in Mexicali. The rim was replaced and I was off to the next race which was last weekend. After the race I noticed another big ding in the new front rim. This wasn't as big as the first one but very noticable.

I went prerunning in San Felipe the last 2 days and now I have another one in the front rim and 2 in the rear rim. This terrain is very rough with lots of submerged rocks,sections of crushed rocks and a bunch of hardcore stuff. I know I hit some stuff so hard it causes your hands to come off the bars and almost loose it. I know if I slowed down and was more carefull that would be the obvious answer but what about on race day ?

What can I do or what wheels are recommended for this type of riding/racing for this hard terrain ?

Thanks for the support and help....Paul

LOL...I have gone through the same thing. Your hubs and even the stock spokes are fine as in a large impact the can push into the hub rather than snap. Go to Excel rims and you will have better luck. The stockers are butter and the Excels are much stronger. Don't even use the DID rims like on the CRF's because they too are soft.

You will just have to learn to become an expert at wheel lacing and always keep and extra wheel set and spare rims around. Or...you could always ride slower! :thumbsup:

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The Excel rims are a great way to go!

If you're going to stick with the stock rims, then tightening the spokes to 42 - 44 in/lbs (which is significantly tighter than ours came stock) and running a higher tire pressure has reduced the number of wheel problems we were having with stock wheels (dings, dents, etc). Once you get to ~48in/lbs, you’ll find that some of the stock nipples will begin to deform into a parallelogram shape, which is just before they round off, so be careful you don’t torque them too tight. Some aftermarket spokes & nipples can be torqued to 48+ in/lbs without issue, but consult the wheel / spoke / nipple manufacturer for exact data on what they recommend.

It's not for everyone, but a Spoke Torque Wrench has been very helpful for the wheels I've fixed & built (stock, Excel, DID, etc). Fasst Company sells a nice Spoke Torque Wrench kit and so does Talon and Excel, all of which you can find on eBay or through your favorite dealer.

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Hey, you eat chicken of the sea or what.You gotta stop pinballig, you're not supposed to hit rocks the size of a bowling ball.

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