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john_pearce

air bleed screws

6 posts in this topic

Hi All,

I have a wr400 y2k model(euro spec) and the front fork air bleed screws are awkward to get at , especially when bark busters are fitted.

The left hand one (AS YOU SIT ON THE BIKE)

is at the 8 o'clock position virtually under

the handlebars , and the right hand one at

about 10 o'clock.

I've had the bike from new so it's as it came

from the factory.

Would it be okay to loosen the protector guides/under brackets/handle crowns,and then

turn the fork tubes so that the bleed screws

are at 12 o'clock??.

Any help is appreciated

John

Portsmouth England

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That should be fine. While we are on this topic, anyone know the prober procedure to bleed the air. I can't remember if you pump the forks before or after you remove the screw.

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Turn em any way they're convenient for you to get at. Mine were also tweaked at different spots but they now both reside at 12:00 sharp. Highest point on the fork tube makes sense to me?

Dougie....didn't know you were supposed to pump the forks at all?

------------------

Y2K WR400FM,Answer top tree w/Accu-Trax clamp,Pro-Tapers(CR-Hi w/ EE handguards),Devol Rad. & frame guards, Guts tall soft foam w/ ballistic cover, 14/52 w/DID VM X-Ring, Kouba-T,Michelin M-12's ft.& rr.,12 oz. flywheel weight, Zip-Ty Racing Link & Shark Fin, Cycra front rotor guard and T.M. Designworks Chain guide, buffer & chain wheels. Street legal except for the non-"DOT" tires.

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I wasn't aware of pumping the forks either. I understood that you are trying to relieve the pressure built up from temperature change, ie the difference in where the bike was stored and rode or from the friction of being used.

I always ride my bike for a few laps and then put it on the stand, unscrew the bleed and screw it back in.

Bill

------------------

99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards , Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, de-octopussed (Thanks Clark) EKP #4, 50PJ, 175MJ, 100PAJ and 65 SJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

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Originally posted by Dougie:

That should be fine. While we are on this topic, anyone know the prober procedure to bleed the air. I can't remember if you pump the forks before or after you remove the screw.

HI DOUGIE

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY ,

I'VE JUST BEEN THROUGH THE MANUAL AND I CAN'T FIND ANYTHING ABOUT COMPRESSING THE FORKS BEFORE BLEEDING.AS BILL SAID I USUALLY JUST

BACK OUT THE SCREWS WHEN THE BIKES ON THE STAND WHILST PREPPING UP.

CHEERS

JOHN

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Maybe your not. I was told to pump them first (I think) then put it on a stand and open them up. I could be wrong.

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