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TARFELE

Steering Bearing and Races

15 posts in this topic

Decided to change my steering bearings so I took everything apart. When it came to knocking the races out I destroyed two punches, two files with punches and two screwdrivers. I read in a search that heat helps. Any other tips you guys can give.

I would feel better if someone would say, "Hey stupid, the races on an 03 WR don't come out". But I know that is not he case.

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A little heat will help out a alot. I wrestled mine out last year, I used a little propane torch to heat the race.

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You need to bang both sides at the same time if you can to get it started straight. WD40 to penetrate the outer race and frame.

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This probably isn't recommended, but I used the pointy end of a bastard file and a hammer. Lost too much skin using a screwdriver.

After I had the pleasure of replacing my rusted bearings, I now check them religiously and keep them well packed with grease.

Good luck and be patient, they'll come out eventually.

Jerry

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A little heat will help out a alot. I wrestled mine out last year, I used a little propane torch to heat the race.

Your talking about inner races on the stem right?

I just did mine two weeks ago and it was a BITCH :bonk::thumbsup:

Use MAPP gas it will get hotter than propane, plan on going through a few chisels, (I did). All I can say is patience brother, it will come. The upper one should press off pretty easy if you get creative with your bench vise.

Tha manual shows you to just put your chisel at the base of the lower race and pound it with a hammer.

Some guys said to use a dremmel but I would be afraid for the stem and the lower clamp :thumbsup:

Good Luck :bonk:

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Your talking about inner races on the stem right?

Not being a smartass here but, thems called roller's.

The race goe's in the neck, and the roller get's pressed onto the stem.

Tapered bearing's, are made up of a race and a roller. The piece that has no moving parts is the race, the one with the "little barrel's that roll in a cage" is called the roller.

Iv'e had luck in the past with cold instead of heat. Take a ziploc and stuff some ice cube's in it, then jam it into the race. Let it set for a few minute's then start tapping the race from the back side, working your way around the backside of the race. Y,know a little bit here, a little bit there. More Ice-repeat. Dry ice work's good too, if you can get it-handle with care.

Interference fit stuff is unique, there is a reason those piece's are such a bitch to get out. Heat make's stuff expand, cold makes it contract. For those that are saying "this guy's full of sh$t"-when you finally beat the hell outta the neck and get your race's out-take the new races, dip em in oil. Then put them in a baggie and pop them into your freezer for a 1/2 hr. They will go into the neck with very little convincing. :thumbsup:

It helps, to have a piece of steel or socket that fit's into the neck and makes contact with the back of the race when tapping them out. If you have a buddy with a lathe, get him to turn you down a piece to fit. They come right out, if you can apply even pressure when banging with that 3 lb. sledge.

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Not being a smartass here but, thems called roller's.

The race goe's in the neck, and the roller get's pressed onto the stem.

Tapered bearing's, are made up of a race and a roller. The piece that has no moving parts is the race, the one with the "little barrel's that roll in a cage" is called the roller.

I hear ya :thumbsup: but when the "little barrel's that roll in a cage" and the cage explode all over your shop floor (typical) you end up with only an inner race left on your stem......

Now I realize he is talking outer races and yes ice will work good but hell those were snap compared to the lower "roller" :thumbsup:

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Now I realize he is talking outer races and yes ice will work good but hell those were snap compared to the lower "roller"

Yes, at that point a hydraulic press or a jaw puller would be the option. I do know the threads at the top of the stem are real un- friendly if you muck em up.

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Please correct me if I am wrong but on a 426 dosen't the steel frame head tube have a lip that needs to be cut (or machined off) in order to remove steering head races. also are the 450's the same?

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WOW, I thought that it was just my lack of mechanical ability again but obviously it's not. After looking at the races closer and feeling them I decided to leave them in. The top was as good as new and the bottom was a little rough but not grooved. I sanded it a little and packed it full of marine grease and put the new bearings in.

Hope it last for a few months then I will take it to my friends at PWR and let them do it.

Thanks guys but keep the tips coming.

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Here's a little trick if you have access to a welder. Arc or wire feed is fine. Weld a couple of beads on the bearing race in the head and then allow it to cool. The race will almost fall out. The welding causes a change in the metalurgy which shrinks the bearing race. We do this at work in bearing housings that use Timken cup and cone bearings. It works like a charm. :thumbsup:

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Please correct me if I am wrong but on a 426 dosen't the steel frame head tube have a lip that needs to be cut (or machined off) in order to remove steering head races. also are the 450's the same?

Your Wrong,

The races come out in seconds with the right tools. I use a 1"x13" piece of Nickle Bronze stock and a big ass hammer. Those races don't stand a chance.

This is the only stuff that will bite onto that small lip of the lower race.

As for the tapered roller on the stem. I use a 1" Snap On chisel.

Just work it up a little at a time on either side being careful not to dork up the stem. Once its up about 3/8" from seated it should pry off.

Good luck

Eric

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Here's a little trick if you have access to a welder. Arc or wire feed is fine. Weld a couple of beads on the bearing race in the head and then allow it to cool. The race will almost fall out. The welding causes a change in the metalurgy which shrinks the bearing race. We do this at work in bearing housings that use Timken cup and cone bearings. It works like a charm. :thumbsup:

I almost want to go pull the stem out again just to try this. It sounds really good.

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Here's a little trick if you have access to a welder. Arc or wire feed is fine. Weld a couple of beads on the bearing race in the head and then allow it to cool. The race will almost fall out. The welding causes a change in the metalurgy which shrinks the bearing race. We do this at work in bearing housings that use Timken cup and cone bearings. It works like a charm. :thumbsup:

I'd like to nominate this for the best post of the month. I've done something similar on heavy equipment, but never thought of applying it to my bike. Great advice Woody!

Jerry

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