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brianjw4

Stripped oil filter bolt

26 posts in this topic

Just don't tighten the shit out of it. It is Aluminium, and will strip easy.

It is only a common problem with people who over tighten their bolts!

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Mine got out of alignment when I was putting the cover back on. With the bolt through the cover it didn't want to go straight in for some reason, I went slow and it still stripped it.

I think I'll try retapping mine too, what size thread is this bolt?

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I'm not sure on the size, but I'm pretty sure it isn't an M12x1.75. It's probably more like an M6 or smaller. M8's are very common on the bike for bar mounts and triple clamp pinch bolts. M12x1.25's are used for mounting bar mounts to triple clamps; pretty big.

FYI, M=metric, 12=diameter in mm, 1.25=thread pitch in mm (distance between threads)

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That stud solution sounds pretty good, especially since you have to remove this cover often with oil changes. I'm going to give that a shot.

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One thing to consider, if you put a stud in where the drain bolt was, the filter cavity may not drain well, which could be messy when you take the cover off :thumbsup:

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Yeah, I thought about that.... but I'd rather have a little mess than have my filter cover leak. I figure I can do a heli-coil too, but I'm not thrilled with idea of drilling anything.

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Mine got out of alignment when I was putting the cover back on. With the bolt through the cover it didn't want to go straight in for some reason, I went slow and it still stripped it.

I think I'll try retapping mine too, what size thread is this bolt?

If re tapping will not work you may try to Helicoil it.

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If it is a drain bolt wont tapping or stripping the thread introduce swarf in the oil? Is the drain bolt the right side of the filter?

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I need to look at it when I get home today, I do want to make sure that putting a stud in there won't affect anything else. My guess is that it won't considering that the drain bolt is in there during normal operation anyway.

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Well I threaded a stud into the case on where the drain bolt was and used a nylon lock nut to tighten it up. I used a dremel to cut a slit in the stud so I could use a flathead screw driver to keep the stud from turning when loosening the nut. Anyway, it works pretty good, although I did have some oil leaking through the nut. I put a small amount of silicone gasket maker around the stud and tightened the nut down, this seems to work, for now.

The thread size is 6mm x 1.00.

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Did you use loctite on the thread to help keep the stud in? This might help with the oil leakage as well. I'm going to do the same mod to mine. Are you going to do all three bolts or just the one?

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I had my local shop put a Heli-coil in my yz and they only charged me a buck for the coil and installation.

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I didn't loctite the stud, although I probably should for long-term use. I just did the drain bolt and left the other two alone since they are easy to get in and out. I'm still probably going to do the heli-coil to be on the safe side.

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I learned along time ago to follow the torque specs. If it says 12 ft lbs, it really means 12 ft lbs. I know to some of us that 12 lbs just doesn't seem tight enough and you want to give it a little more. Well, a little more is too much and that's when bad things happen...believe me, I know. I always want to over tighten and it usually gets me in trouble. :thumbsup:

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I use a torque wrench se to the right toque,. Strangely enough all reports point to the drain bolt but the other two bolts seem not to be affected. The drain bolt is a different type to the other two. The bolt gets the same amount of use because I removew all 3 during a filter change.

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