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yzf_guy

06 subframe

7 posts in this topic

Has anybody else hard a hard time puting their subframe back on? Also the carb is a pain to take off as well. :thumbsup:

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You know, I heard someone else say they had a hard time and I was prepared for the worse. It really wasnt too bad. I left the whole air boot on the subframe, and it slide right back on. Just like that. Maybe I just got hella lucky. :thumbsup:

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Coming off is smooth as ice and twice as nice, but installing and lining up all the holes for the bolts is a pain in the a$$. I was doing all this so I could install a new MSR fuel screw. I figured out that I had to take the shock off to move the carb enough.

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Coming off is smooth as ice and twice as nice, but installing and lining up all the holes for the bolts is a pain in the a$$. I was doing all this so I could install a new MSR fuel screw. I figured out that I had to take the shock off to move the carb enough.

NO, NO! To get to the carb just remove the tank then unscrew the hot start valve on top of the carb and remove it! that is the key. Once the hotstart is out you tilt the carb to the side and you have very good access to the bottom of the carb for your jetting needs and fuel screw. Also as far as the sub frame goes leave the air boot attached to the sub frame and loosen it at the carb, then remove it all as one piece and then install it again as 1 piece slipping the air boot over the carb. These tips make this bike easier to work on than my 426. A total re-jet with fuel screw took about 10min. Try it!! :thumbsup:

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Also as far as the sub frame goes leave the air boot attached to the sub frame and loosen it at the carb, then remove it all as one piece and then install it again as 1 piece slipping the air boot over the carb.
:thumbsup: Thats what I did, piece of cake. :thumbsup:

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Thanks guys I will try that next time. I do leave the boot attached and take it of as an assembly though.

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Thanks guys I will try that next time. I do leave the boot attached and take it of as an assembly though.

The boot does take a little maneuvering, assuming that you have the pipe off, (the can not the header), it will be a nightmare if you don't remove the pipe. I loosen the carb air boot clamp as much as possible without the screw falling out and then i spray a little WD-40 on my finger and swipe a very small amount on the end of the boot that will touch the carb first, (the very small 45 degree lip on the end of the boot, about 1mm wide) as you try and slide it back on. It took about a minute to connect. I have also heard that heating the end of the boot up with a hair dryer before install works as well. This is just what worked for me. :thumbsup:

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