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wickedsprint

oil dipstick question

22 posts in this topic

When screwing the dipstick back in, it feels like it rubs the inside of the frame in a few spots as you turn it, anyone elses do this?

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Mine doesn't rub. (05 XR650L). The dipstick should first screw in very smoothly and VERY easily. Does it? Possible cross-threading problem? I just checked mine and you can start screwing it in the first two turns with the littlest touch of one finger. Can you do the same?

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It wants to start off cross threaded, and looking at the actual dipstick it looks bit tweaked, likely what the issue is.

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Mine was impossible not to cross thread. You are supposed to lean the handle to the right first or something but i didn't help me. I just use a pair of pliers to put it in and out now and it seems ok. its a stupid design. :thumbsup:

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On the 650R put the dipstick in with the handlepart cocked to the left a bit(oil level end will point to the right of the fill hole if you're sitting on the bike) and then put it in. That's the trick I use.

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When screwing the dipstick back in, it feels like it rubs the inside of the frame in a few spots as you turn it, anyone elses do this?

Is your dipstick bent. That could possibly be the problem. :thumbsup:

Matthew 5:16 :bonk:

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Replace it.

https://secure.srcinc.net/prodpage.cfm?Cat_Selected=1&SubCat_Selected=16&Product_Selected=1678&StartRow=21

Metal threads, instead of cheap threads that cut and could fall into your oil. Easier to install with a small diameter metal rod. Plus you can easily keep an eye on your oil temperature. BTW, oil needs to be warmed up to 180F to lubricate well.

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Replace it.

https://secure.srcinc.net/prodpage.cfm?Cat_Selected=1&SubCat_Selected=16&Product_Selected=1678&StartRow=21

Metal threads, instead of cheap threads that cut and could fall into your oil. Easier to install with a small diameter metal rod. Plus you can easily keep an eye on your oil temperature. BTW, oil needs to be warmed up to 180F to lubricate well.

I believe oil needs to be heated to 180 at least, to maintain proper viscosity. Either way, you're correct. I'm not a big fan of the temp dipstick for a dry sump engine. I'm more concerned about the temp of the oil in my clutch/head etc. I tried one of those pro circuit heat strips and it worked rather well. Another good thing to use are heat tabs, which can be had at most automotive shops/stores. You put them on the bike and after it reaches a certain temp, say 280 the tabs burst allowing you to check and know if you ran the engine too hot. One thing I can say about water cooled bikes is that they let you know prior to overheating that they're in fact running too hot(spews antifreeze). Good luck guessing that on an air cooled bike. :thumbsup:

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That's a pretty common problem. As mentioned a lean to the right is what it takes, but after your stick get's bent a bit, give it up. I bought an extra dipstick and cut the stick off the first one, making it just a plug basically. I save the new dipstick for checking the oil (you don't thead it in, just set it right on the threads), then I use the plug when riding. Works for me.

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Wow thanks guys, I forgot to check back on this thread, I ordered a new one from service honda and will likely get the temp one for riding or break the stick off like an above member mentioned.

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Everybody has problems with the dipstick. You can rectify the problem by cutting off about 2 inches of it. Worked for me. :thumbsup:

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I have the temp dipstick and really like it. I know it's not a real measure of engine heat but is a quick eyeball check. Anyway I guess you need to know the bike and what the temp dipstick limitations are (what the dipstick is really telling you).

I know this doesn't help you now but I always, very gently, ease the threads on virtually all fasteners, spark, dipstick. Just a habbit after a number of accidental cross threads in my engine rebuilding experiences. Take a little extra time to prevent a problem. Don't think I'd use a pliars to crank it in that sounds a little rough.

I didn't realize that 180 degree oil was optimum. I usually start and warm the dipstick temp to maybe 100 then off I go, but again the dipstick probably isn't a good source for reading the 180 optimum anyway.

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Is your dipstick bent. That could possibly be the problem. :thumbsup:

Matthew 5:16 :thumbsup:

I have an '02 XR650R and have a hard time getting it to thread. I noticed it was bent, so I straightened it. That made it impossible to thread! So I put the bend back into it, and now it works, as long as I insert it it the bend facing towrads the back of the bike, so the tip of the dipstick doesn't hit the frame as I make the first turn.

But I think I'll just cut the tip off. Thanks for the tip, whoever said that.

The trick setup would be to replace the stainless oil tube (on the right side of the head tube) with one of the clear ones. Then all you have to do to check the oil is look at the oil level in the tube.

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When I first got this bike, I screwed in the dip stick and it came out looking like a cork screw. Like someone on here said, tilt the dipstick, (bottom to the right), as you put it down in.

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I got a replacment that isn't jacked up and twisted, I am going to trim about 2" off the end and it should be good to go.

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I just got my XR650R and noticed the same thing-it was kinda hard to put the dipstick back in but i figured it took a special way

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I would get so pissed-off at honda every time I checked the oil, sometimes I would spend a good thirty minutes trying to thread the dipstick back in. It's gotten to the point that I don't check my oil as often as I should. I will for sure try the above mentioned tips. Thanks, Matt

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If you have crossthreaded the plastic of your oil dipstick, do the following:

1) use a utility knife to cut away the first spiral of thread, and clean up the threads farther in. Cutting off the first spiral is best done by whittling the plug down from the first groove of threads to bevel the bottom of the plug.

2) cut off all but 1 cm of the crosshatched indicator part of the dipstick end

3) use a fine file to de-burr the cut area

4) use pressurized air and a clean rag to get all particles of plastic and aluminum off the dipstick.

Use the modified dipstick as you did the stock one, but remember that the modified dipstick will now indicate "one thread" higher oil level than is actually the case.

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