which oil?

I recently bought my 2001 XR650L. Approx 4,900 mostly street miles. The oil had just been changed before I got it so I have been riding it when I can. For peace of mind I want to do a few things including change the oil. The Honda dealer recommends a synthetic blend instead of full synthetic.

Which oil do you guys recommend and why?

How often do you change the oil?

Which oil filters are best?

Thanks for the advice. I tried the search feature but I just kept getting the searching icon in the upper corner. :applause:

good ol honda 10w40 and honda filter. i changer around 2k miles.

I change mine about every 500 miles. I use Torco 10-40, but any good motorcycle-specific oil will work. I always replace the filter with a Honda part.

I went to a full synthetic (mobil one motorcycle ) and the bike seems to shift better since I made the switch.

I use Castrol 20-50W (four stroke motorcycle oil) change about every 1K

Full Synthetic is FAR superior to non synthetic oil :bonk: . There is no reason to use "semi synthetic". Only people that dont know what they are talking about and are afraid of change will recommend old dinosaur oil or "semi synthetic". :cry:

Full synthetic oil is better in every way, it is expensive but you get what you pay for. If you want your engine to last as long as possible, use synthetic. :applause:

amsoil10w-40 full synthetic wow! what a difference in the way it shifts . every 1500 to 2000.

Full Synthetic is FAR superior to non synthetic oil :bonk: . There is no reason to use "semi synthetic". Only people that dont know what they are talking about and are afraid of change will recommend old dinosaur oil or "semi synthetic". :cry:

Full synthetic oil is better in every way, it is expensive but you get what you pay for. If you want your engine to last as long as possible, use synthetic. :applause:

That's what I thought too. I use Mobil 1 in all of my cars and trucks. That's why I was surprised to hear the semi-synthetic recommendation.

The last time I changed the synthetic (moble 1). The oil had 1500 mi.on it and still seemed to have that look of it still ok. Changed it any way. Next change though i'm going to try a diff brand like amsoil I think it was cheaper than the mobil 1.

use Shell Rotella T 5w40 full Syn. It's great.. and cheap. you can buy it at

walmart for about 25.00 a gallon.

go here and read this, it'll open your eyes to oils:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

This is oil 101. Rotella rules :applause:

amsoil10w-40 full synthetic wow! what a difference in the way it shifts . every 1500 to 2000.

that's my choice also

use Shell Rotella T 5w40 full Syn. It's great.. and cheap. you can buy it at

walmart for about 25.00 a gallon.

go here and read this, it'll open your eyes to oils:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

This is oil 101. Rotella rules :thumbsup:

Wow, I buy my Rotell full Syn for about $15 a gallon at my walmart.

I agreewith the factory oil guys. Honda GN 10w-40. If you want semi-sinthetic, Honda makes that too. Use honda filters.

I'm not sure what the recommoneded service interval is for an XR650L, it's every 600 miles for an XR650R.

My cousin pays twice as much for Bel-Ray semi-simthetic, and I really don't think it makes that much difference.

Full Synthetic is FAR superior to non synthetic oil :bonk: . There is no reason to use "semi synthetic". Only people that dont know what they are talking about and are afraid of change will recommend old dinosaur oil or "semi synthetic". :thumbsup:

Full synthetic oil is better in every way, it is expensive but you get what you pay for. If you want your engine to last as long as possible, use synthetic. :thumbsup:

The internals of the engine will last longer, no question. But, will the gaskets last that long. I don't think so. Full sinthetic will eventually slip right through the gaskets & cause leaks.

The internals of the engine will last longer, no question. But, will the gaskets last that long. I don't think so. Full sinthetic will eventually slip right through the gaskets & cause leaks.

How do you figure this?

Nothing I have read about synth shows how it could be thinner. Also, it seems to me, that regular dino, with it's VII additives that get rapidly broken down in a motorcycle engine/tranny, is what gets thin, but even so, never thinner than the base stock. Apparently the base stock never breaks down, and if you could filter and re-add new VII's, detergents, etc. to you old oil, the claim is that it would be good as new. I have heard others claim synth is "thinner", and will do this, but I haven't come across any valid data that describes this characteristic.

Anyone have any?

I have never seen synthetic oil actually cause a leak in motorcycles, but I'm an auto mechanic, and I've seen it many times with cars.

From everyone I've talked to, here is the rule. On a brand new bike (or car), the first 2-3 oil changes should be conventional oil for break-in. After that, if you want to change to synthetic, that's fine, but you should stick with synthetic from there on.

If you have a used bike/car that has run conventional it's whole life, DO NOT swich to synthetic because it will seep out though old gaskets.

My riding buddy has an WR450, and he started using synthetic right away. The first ride out, there was a lot of dust collection around every gasket in the bike. The dust wouldn't collect if their wasn't anything there to stick to.

I have always heard that synthetic oil, in effect "cleans", the inside of the engine and will wash away any sludge and gunk it comes into contact with. This will eventually expose any weak points in the mating surfaces that had been clogged with sludge. It will not cause leaks but if your engine has a sludge barrier where oil and dirt and grease collected it may seep.

I run Mobil 1 in all of my cars and trucks. The 67 and 46 are stock. No problems.

I run Shell Rotella-T full Synthetic in my Bike and some of my Vehicles. It's not a True synthetic but a Group III oil but has all the properties of a full synthetic. It's about $13/Gallon at Wally-World, the Mobil 1 Truck & SUV is rebranded Delvac 1. Not sure if it's ok to run the M1 in bikes though, any Non-Motorcycle spefic oil that has "moly" in it will make your clutch slip (BAD).

The Synthetics causing Seals to leak is a complete and utter myth/urban legend. Synthetic Oils will actually prevent seal leaks. The Synthetic oil will condition the rubber seals preventing them from hardening and cracking (this is what causes seals to leak). Now maybe a Cork Valve Cover Gasket on an Older car with synthetic may leak, but it would leak whether there was synthetic or Dino used in the car.

Also there is no such thing as looking at the oil with your eye to see if it has some life left in it. The only way to tell how much life has been used up is by a "used oil analysis"

Breaking a Motor in on Conventional Oil is a must however. Synthetics are just too slippery and won't allow for a good "seat" of everything.

Read more on oil @ http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ I was an Automechanic for a Race Car team in Daytona and A&P (aircraft) apprentice before that, I currently am an Engineer for Lockheed and I'm not spouting off urban legends, or myths these are all facts. I've know many Mechanics that didn't know a thing about Oils, lubes or additives any Mech that says don't run synthetic or tells you to put Slick 50 in your motor RUN AWAY!

honda gold bottle for me

Amsoil for me.http://www.amsoil.com/ You can find a recent study on motorcycle oil here.

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