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00YZ426FMRCD

Axle Bolt Holders on Front Forks

11 posts in this topic

Need some help on this one. Broke off 1 of the 4 axle bolt holders putting my front wheel on. I checked the Torque settings in the manual and it said 17 Ft-lbs - Which is what I had my Torque Wrench set to. Here is the question:

How often - if ever is it a good idea to replace these 4 front axle bolts? Not sure if I actually over tightend the bolt or if it was already weak due to stress & wear. I was thinking that given the location and stress that is put on the 4 axle bolts, that replacing all 4 may not be a bad idea. Any thoughts on this?

Now comes the fun part, getting the broken bolt out and paying out the a$$ at the local dealer for 4 more. :applause: I am thinking about going to a local specialty bolt/nut store but want to make sure I get the correct ones. Any thoughts on this?

Help & comments always appreciated.

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Yes, go to a local hardware store and do some digging in their nut & bolt isle. Trust me you will find a exact if not better replacement for alot cheaper than dealer cost. I would just replace the one bolt. They are not weak, you over-torqued it. The torque specs in the manual are a bit too much I might add. You are better off slightly undertorqueing than overtorqueing. I know people are gonna flame me for saying this but I always torque according to feel. I tried using a torque wrench but they have caused many including myself to overtorque bolts on their bikes. Here is what I do...when I undo a bolt or nut I remember in my head how much force I needed for that specific bolt....then when I return to install it back on I use roughly the same force that I had needed to take it off. You see what I mean? Then if you do run into a nut coming loose(like in my head sometimes,lol) all you have to do is tighten it back but alittle more cause it came loose and apparently wasnt tight enough. Like I said, its best to undertorque then overtorque.

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17 lbs ft. seems like a lot. I have never torqued those bolts, I just kind of "snug them down" when I need to. I guess you should replace all of them at the same time.

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I've also noticed that original equipment parts on japanese bikes, such as bolts, seem to be made rather soft and do strip and snap easily. I think what they are doing is cutting costs and saving weight. The replacements you can buy at a hardware store might be american made not really sure, but do seem heavier(in weight and strength).

To be even more descriptive. The brand of nuts/bolts I personally purchase at a local hardware store are Hillman or Tillman...something with that name not sure. But I see most places carry their brand. I like them seem to work well.

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Well, you can get an equivalent bolt almost anywhere (8mm ISO, grade 8.8). What you won't find so readily is a set of them with the undersized 10mm heads. Standard will be 13 or 14mm. Of course, you could get Allens, too, and you could upgrade to 10.8 bolts, but I don't think that's necessary. It's up to you. Those should be replaced about every two years, since they're loosened so often.

If you're ambitious enough to pull that one fork out of the clamps, you may very well not need a screw extractor for this job. The holes are usually drilled through, so you can try this:

Center punch the bottom of the bolt as near center as you can, then drill into the bolt using a small bit, like a 3/32". Once you've drilled in about 1/4" or better, and the bolt is still there, switch to a 1/8 or 5/32 drill. Chances are this bit will "bite" in the pilot hole, which ordinarily would be annoying. But here, what will happen if you can get the drill to stick like that is that the drill will run the bolt straight back out the top of the hole. Try it, it works most of the time in cases where the bolt was pulled apart, as opposed to being jammed in rusty or dirty threads an twisted off.

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As many of the guys here pointed out to me, the torque values are listed for DRY bolts. The problem is this. If you leave the bolts dry, they rust and corrode. I always end up applying a bit of grease or oil to them to prevent this. This messes up the reading and you end up breaking or stripping the bolt.

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I replaced those with socket head cap screws...I had to drill and tap a hole up the bottom of the screw put a screw in and tightened it down till the bolt broke loose..Pain in the ass...I applied some grease to the threads and used socket head cap screws , now they come out all the time , no problem.. :applause:

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Good info & great points everyone! As always, thanks for the quick response. I was thinking the same - that maybe they should be replaced everyone once in a while anyway. I honestly think I just made a bonehead mistake & over-torqued it. Heading to a bolt specialty shop in the morning to see what I can find. I am hoping I won't have too much of a problem getting the broken bolt out.

Ever had a week where it seems like everything you touch breaks? I am having one...

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Ever had a week where it seems like everything you touch breaks? I am having one...
You mean like a reverse Midas touch, where everything you touch turns to S***? Yes. Many times. :applause:

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Maybe you could try an EZ-out bit after drilling the pilot hole in the broken bolt? It should grab if the drill won't. :applause:

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You mean like a reverse Midas touch, where everything you touch turns to S***? Yes. Many times. :applause:

That's a good one Gray! Been that kind of week for me. Going to hopefully wrap things up tonight. Found an exact match on the bolts at a local fastener/bolt store. The size is a 8M 1.25 x 40mm. The store had a $25 limit but ended up knowing the guy at the counter and got the bolts for free. Couldn't find them anywhere else in town and the local Yamaha shop would have had to special order them. That translates to about $5 bucks per bolt. There is light at the end of the tunnel...

I can't wait to get things back together, it's suppose to be in the 50's here on Friday & I just had my front suspension redone for the 1st time (Pro-Action) and just put new tread upfront. Can't wait to test the results.

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