OIL no wait not another what do I use ?

Does anybody know what kind of oil yamaha ships the yz 450 with? Should I change it Before riding ?The dealer didn't service it when I got it (at my request)I wanted to do all that!

I have always broken in my bikes with the oil they come with. One hour hard riding, then oil- and filterchange. Motoman says it would help to get the best ring seal with normal 10W40 petroleum car oil for the first two racing days and then go to your favorite brand of oil. I use full synth, but most important is you change oil often, regardless what you use.

I'm sure you are familiar with motoman's tips, here's the link, but it is up to you to decide, it is somewhat a controversial topic.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This has worked for me and my buds, never any problems.

Just warm it up properly and don't run it to the rev limiter and avoid running too hot, let it cool between some 10-15 min rides.

Good article from MotoMan. I had also heard somehwhere else about using Automotive OIL on break in. Good post.

BTW - when they run the engines at factory - hard that is too - for the first initial 5 minutes, they suck the oil away. I am not sure if they put new oil in it at the factory or at the dealer, just ensure there really IS some oil in it, if the dealer did nothing to your bike as you say. I also am convinced, that the oil there is suitable for breaking in the bike. But don't run it more than 1 hour with the first oil.

Does anybody know what kind of oil yamaha ships the yz 450 with? Should I change it Before riding ?The dealer didn't service it when I got it (at my request)I wanted to do all that!

no run it .... run it easy to hard today and change it tonight!

no run it .... run it easy to hard today and change it tonight!

That's what I did, but check the oil level before you ride, I know... duh...

i just finish putting my bike together ( i got it in a crate) and i dident think they ship the bike with oil in. so i check the dipstick and there is oil in it, i think they use yamalube when they ship it.

by the way how is everybody breaking in there new 06 450s,

I am not sure why people think break-in period is a good time to run the engine hard. During this time, parts are seating properly and metal to metal shearing is at its worst already so why make it worse? Follow the manuals directions on break-in since it was written by them pocket-protector wearing geeks at Yamaha who procreated the machine to begin with. Plus I stick with whatever manufacterer's oil I am riding. If its a Yamaha I use Yamalube, if its a Honda I use Hondalube, if its Suzuki I use Suzukilube, etc,etc...

I know I might've offended someone with my opinion. No offense, this is just what I believe. BTW my 2002 yz250f has never needed a valve adjustment nor has had any mechanical problems yet.(knock on wood)

I am not sure why people think break-in period is a good time to run the engine hard.
Break-in is an odd sort of thing. The rotating parts would be just as happy to be run under no load at all in an oil bath at a constant temperature for the first ten hours. Not so the compression rings, which need to be subjected to a fair amount of pressure to ensure their ability to really seal well over the balance of their service life. So it's a balancing act, of sorts.

The best procedure is to warm up thoroughly and gracefully, and run the engine at at least 25% of it's potential, but not more than 50%, for the first 20-30 minutes. After that, up to 70% for the next 30 minutes, then up to 85% for the next. Following that, run it as you normally would, avoiding only lugging (bad for the crank and trans), extremely high revs, or extended periods of maintaining high speeds until 2-3 hours total have passed. Change the oil, clean or replace the oil filter, and call it broken in.

I dont run synthetics because I have had them glaze the clutch discs. maybe it was just the brand.

I dont run synthetics because I have had them glaze the clutch discs. maybe it was just the brand.

Probably not the brand at all. I would bet the synthetic oil you ran had friction modifiers in it - those are not good for a wet clutch.

I dont run synthetics because I have had them glaze the clutch discs. maybe it was just the brand.
Any oil, synthetic or dino, that is labeled API ECII (Energy Conserving II) carries the risk (not the certainty) that it can cause clutch problems. There are a number of good synthetics that do not conform to ECII that work just fine, and any that have the JASO MA grade are specifically certified for use with wet clutches.
I have always broken in my bikes with the oil they come with. One hour hard riding, then oil- and filterchange. Motoman says it would help to get the best ring seal with normal 10W40 petroleum car oil for the first two racing days and then go to your favorite brand of oil. I use full synth, but most important is you change oil often, regardless what you use.

I'm sure you are familiar with motoman's tips, here's the link, but it is up to you to decide, it is somewhat a controversial topic.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This has worked for me and my buds, never any problems.

Just warm it up properly and don't run it to the rev limiter and avoid running too hot, let it cool between some 10-15 min rides.

Obviously Motoman's comments are in direct conflict with what the manufacturer's recommendations. What do others think about the "break in" process?

Seems like the factory engineers would know best.

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