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mtrdrms

Engine accessibility on 06?

18 posts in this topic

I know on my 03 with the steel frame I can do all the valve shimming and topend stuff without much hastle but on my 05CRF450 you really have to work around the frame. So for those owners of aluminum yzf's how are they to work on compared to steel frame bikes??

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Well, so far, here's what i can tell ya...

Getting to the the carb is more difficult. This is how far i had to go tearing it down just to put on the boyesen ap cover.

Putting the subframe back on is a pain in the butt b/c the air box boot that goes on the carb is a PAIN in the butt!

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james,

surely removing the carb would have been easier. at least on the 06yz250f it would be. can't you just remove the hotstart, remove the cables and pull the carb out the left side?

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I really dont think it's possible on the 450, but maybe.

According to the book, the steps were remove shock and subframe to remove the carb so thats what i did.

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the only thing on the 450 is that even if you loosen the bolts to carb, you can only rotate is a few degrees before it hits the frame. they have it up pretty tight against the frame at the top. I ended up buying the FCR carb tools in order to replace the pilot jet without removing the carb.

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On my 06 250f I had to remove the supframe,and then the front carb boot as well.Then I jsut twisted the carb and luckly I could access it.Hopefully the 450 wont be much worse.

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the only thing on the 450 is that even if you loosen the bolts to carb, you can only rotate is a few degrees before it hits the frame. they have it up pretty tight against the frame at the top. I ended up buying the FCR carb tools in order to replace the pilot jet without removing the carb.

Unbolt the hot start cable and you can rotate the carb plenty to get the bowl off and replace jets.

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Unbolt the hot start cable and you can rotate the carb plenty to get the bowl off and replace jets.

good to know, ill try that next time :applause:

just watch that hot start nut - its cheap plastic !

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Yeah, just to replace the mains or even replacing the fuel misture screw, you can loosen the clamps and rotate enough.

However, to replace with the Boysen deal, you have to do the subframe and shock. Here's the other fun part - don't connect the top mount of the shock until you get the boot from the airbox onto the carb. It wouldn't go on mine while the shock was bolted on. I had to remove the top bolt and let the shock fall to the rear a bit to re-attach the airbox....

You can get to the needle with no trouble - just take off the tank...

It's cool they make these things small and light, but man, it gets tough to do maintanence. I'm not looking forward to doing valve adjustments in this thing. :applause:

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I checked my valves and was able to remove the valve cover with the motor in the frame, just leave the "cover gasket" on the head. Actually it's a little easier than the steel frames, with the tank off you can work from the top and have clear access to the bolts and coil.

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Unbolt the hot start cable and you can rotate the carb plenty to get the bowl off and replace jets.

:applause: probably the most helpful post here.

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Hmm i got my airbox boot on the carb with the shock on but it was a STRUGGLE to say the least...

That's why I stated to remove the top shock bolt - made my life MUCH easier. Not really an issue, but kinda an extra step just for something simple like putting the boot back on...

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That's why I stated to remove the top shock bolt - made my life MUCH easier. Not really an issue, but kinda an extra step just for something simple like putting the boot back on...

I will definitely try this next time for sure. I had the shock completely out of the bike so it wouldnt have been an extra step in this case. Thanks for the idea; next time I need to pull the carb I'll give it a shot :applause:

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Both MSR and Motion Pro make carb tools for the FCR carb. I bought the Motion Pro set for $12.00. All you do is drop the drain bolt on the carb for easy access to the MJ and PJ, no need to loosen or rotate carb. kit also includes a tool to access the fuel screw if your still using the stock one (I highly recommend the Zip-ty myself) and an allen head to pull the cap of the top of the carb.

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I have both the 250 and 450. Both reuire the subframe to be removed. I tried everything else to no avail. The 250 airboot went back on easier I think because it is a little smaller. The 450 was a bear. I'm getting it down though. Both are easier then my CRF.

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