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Fork compression adjustment


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Yep. Just turn it w/ screwdriver and count the clicks. I would probably adjust no more than 3-4 clicks on both and then ride it.

It's also a good idea to to count the clicks all the way till it doesn't click then go back the other way 3-4 clicks less. Do both and then you know that both are at the the same rate. That will give you a point of reference for future adjustments.

Scott

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It's also not a bad idea, if the bike was used, and/or you've never fiddled with the clickers before this, to start by backing them both all the way out, counting clicks as you go. That way, you will find out where they were set in the first place, and whether they were both set the same.

You back them all the way out? I always thought you turned them all the way in for reference......

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Compression is on the bottom of the fork, Rebound is on top. :applause:
Overlooked that one again, didn't we? '04 and earlier, compression is on the bottom, under a small rubber plug. '05 and later, it's the other way around.

As for whether to run them in or out for reference, there may be a reason why one way is better than the other, but it will be the same total range of clicks from in to out regardless of which way you go, won't it? If your fork has a range of 23 clicks, what's the difference between 11 clicks in or out? It may not be the precise same adjustment on the next bike you come to, but it will be the same on yours either way. If the caps were assembled to the rods with the clickers at some middle location rather than backed all the way off, the clickers may end up being at different distances from the damper valve, which could cause "11 clicks in" to be different on on side than another. But if you find, for instance that one fork has a range of 22 and one has 24, the best thing would be to remove the caps an correctly install them on the rods.

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I was told by my suspension guy to back them off to count the clicks because there is a definite end or stop. Tightening sometimes they wont come out proper if you tighten them down too tight. It's worked out that way best for me. The yz426f is well known this I'm told on the shock comp. screw.

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Same here, I was puzzled for a moment. Comp is at bottom on '04, sure.

You want to start adjusting the clickers from the fully closed starting point.

The best way to visualize this is to put a sharpened pencil point into a straw. As the point is drawn out, the taper gets smaller and the gap gets bigger. So, the flow of oil increases geometrically.

By the time you get to the last clicker out, it really doesn't matter. The last three or four clicker spots are relatively minor. Percentage wise the first clicks are way bigger changes than the last.

So, go all the way in and then count back out. I count that first click that seems like only a slight turn out as it is still a turn. All the way in seats the needle on the edge of the shaft, closing it off completely. Even a small gap is a gap, so i count the first click, no matter how small the turn may seem.

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