2000 WR 400 questions

Just picked this bike up, after reading some of the post just curious about the grey wire any responses would be appreciated. Just got back into riding after many years of not riding my how things have changed. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to TT. I have recently retired from road racing and picked up a 99 WR 400. It has been a while since I did any serious dirt riding and yes, things have changed a bunch!

There are a number of what is called free mods that can be done to your bike. The grey wire is one such mod. You should check with the previous owner and ask what free mods (or any mods for that matter) have been done to the bike. You should also find out how the suspension is set up (spring/oil weights, oil height, revalved? etc). That way you know what you have got and can go from there.

The gray wire and exhaust cam timing mod along with opening the airbox and exhaust up (all free mods) will change a stock WR 400 motor into a YZ engine that has serious get up and go!

By disconnecting the gray wire, you are changing the ignition mapping from WR to YZ.

I recommend strongly that you do a search on this site for free mods. I have been doing a bunch of reading myself. There is a wealth of information (with pics) on this site for your bike. There is much to learn. Hope this helps!

Bob

Thanks for the response I think I will keep researching. Some things have been done the air box has been opened up already and I think it has plenty of git up and go already thanks again

I've been searching archives to find exactly which loom has the grey wire for the 2000 Wr400 and have had no luck finding any pics or exact location. I'm sure it's there however I can't find it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Eric

Please if anyone has a picture of the 1999 or 2000 WR400 gray wire location can you post it thanks.

Im trying to do this mod to my bike right now aswell. I dont see a grey wire were the picture in the FAQ says it is in the 6 pin harness. Is it the colour of the wire or is it were its located in the harness that matters? \

EDIT: so i decided to go balls deep and disconnect the only grey wire i can find in that harness..the bike started and doesnt sound ill...going for a cruise around the block...will report back shortly

Im trying to do this mod to my bike right now aswell. I dont see a grey wire were the picture in the FAQ says it is in the 6 pin harness. Is it the colour of the wire or is it were its located in the harness that matters? \

EDIT: so i decided to go balls deep and disconnect the only grey wire i can find in that harness..the bike started and doesnt sound ill...going for a cruise around the block...will report back shortly

Check out this website for many mods that are relevent to the 400s. This kid was a pioneer in the early days of the new generation four strokes http://motoman393.thumpertalk.com/tech/

His home page http://motoman393.thumpertalk.com/

cheers mate! :thumbsup:

after a very brief romp the bike seems to run fine with that wire unplugged...*sigh of relief*

Changing your WR's cam timing to YZ Timing

Works on 98'-02' WR250F/400/426

The WR 250F/400/426 has been mellowed in comparison to the YZ 250F/400/426. You can change the timing to YZ specs and increase the mid rev punch and build RPM's quicker.

Remove the seat and fuel tank. In the manual it says to remove the radiators, you don't need to remove them. Instead remove the upper engine brackets. This will give you enough room to slide the Cylinder head cover out. Now remove the Cylinder head cover.

Remove the timing hole plugs and turn the engine until "I" is in the center of the small plug hole. At Top Dead Center the cams will be facing away from each other. The exhaust cams will have punch marks at 9:00, 12:00 and 3:00. The intake cam will have punch marks at 9:00, 12:00 and 3:00.

Remove the cam chain tensioner. Use a screwdriver to tighten the screw inside the tensioner until it locks. Then in a criss cross pattern remove the cam chain tensioner

Loosen the cam cap bolts in a criss cross pattern and remove the cam cap. (There's a bearing retainer in the cam cap, be sure not to drop it into the motor.) Turn the exhaust cam one tooth clockwise. The timing mark on the exhaust cam will now be at 1:00.

Reinstall the cam caps and torque to 7.2-ft. lb., then reinstall the cam chain tensioner and unlock it.

look it up on youtube, its universal and is the same concept.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now