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Ramcc4x4

Ordered a cam today

7 posts in this topic

I have been debating ordering a camshaft for my XR650R for a long time. I sold a few old truck parts that were sitting in my garage and came up with some extra $$$. Today I finally ordered a Hotcam stage 1 cam. I found it online for $129.95 and was unfortunately charged $10.00 for UPS ground which I thought was steep for what the part is. Anybody have any tech tips for the install? I have rebuilt a V8 engine in the past and can pay attention to detail so I'm hoping the instructions are well written.

With the open air box, hi-rev cdi, Edelbrock , header and pipe it should do well in the mid-upper rpm range.

Has anyone purchased this cam and not been happy with the results?

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I just put the stage 1 in my bike a couple of months ago, and i'm verry happy with it. I'm an auto mechanic and kind of new to bikes, but the instal was fairly straight forward. The hardest part was pressing the sprocket piece off and on to the new cam. If you rebuilt a motor, and have a service manual it will be easy. :applause:

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I did a search and noticed the issue with the cam sprocket. I ordered a new one and a new bolt the same day I ordered the cam. I'm glad to hear you've been happy with the cam. I can't wait to get it out to the desert next month!!!!

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When I install the cam next week should I richen the Edelbrock 1-2 clicks or just try it out and see how it does?

Here is what quadsan has to say about breaking in cam's:

Breaking in a new cam is similar to engine break in, but different. First off you'll want to liberally coat the cam lobes with a zinc fortified engine assy lube that doesn't contain moly. Autozone sells 2oz tubes of zinc fortefied engine assembly lube (without molly) for a couple of bucks. Coating the camshaft prevents premature metal wear upon initial start up, so make sure you don't skip this step because it's important. Once you get your bike started, the most important things are not to let your bike idle and not to over rev or over load it.

If you want to be super thorough in your break in, then you'll want to run your bike on a fairly level surface (minimum load) for ~20 minutes while slowly reving it up and down the range (no big quick throttle transitions) and you're going to want to keep your engine RPM above 2,000 during this time. Then you'll want to let the bike cool down and do this same prodecure two more times so it has a total of about one hour of run time on it. Change the oil and let the bike completely cool down over night and then check your valve clearances and make adjustments if necessary. Now go tear up your town!

The most common method I've used for breaking in cams on bikes is to setup my bike with large fans blowing at the radiators. The fans need to put out some serious air because the bike will be stationary the whole time. Once the bike starts, I set my idle speed for ~3,100+ RPM so the engine RPM will NOT drop any lower than 3,000 RPM and then I'll slowly work the throttle up and down the RPM range for the next 20 to 25 minutes. Then I'll change the oil and let the engine cool down over night and check / adjust my valves if necessary and then go tear up the town.

HotCams and other cam companies usually provide break-in instructions with their cam, but the above methods is what I've typically used with good success on cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc.

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