Replacing the throttle cable on an '84 Honda XL600R

In August 2005 I finally got my XL600 back from the shop after 5 weeks :applause: of waiting. They basically took my $800 (Can) and gave me my bike back running worse then it did before (backfires under deceleration more now, idles really low/stalls easily, clutch lever doesnt disengage clutch till its almost all the way out) with one new leak (at the front of the motor, something to do with an oil line) and one remaining that they supposedly fixed (behind front sprocket). After riding the bike around a little bit, the throttle cable broke. This was the last straw for me, so I tried to sell the beast before leaving for school for the year, but was not able to get rid of it.

Now, time has healed my wounds of frustration, dissapointment, and money loss, and I want to try again with the bike. For Christmas holidays this year, when I go back to my parents house, I want to get the throttle cable fixed so I can again ride the XL. I dont actually know where it is broken, all I know is that when you go to rev the throttle, theres no resistance, and the motor doesnt respond.

Now any time I rode the bike before, there was a pretty noticeable "resistance" to get through before you could open the throttle more. Is this normal for these bikes or should the throttle feel like any other bike...ie smooth all the way through the motion? If this was caused by the cable binding as it goes through the headlight area, how should I route it so it wont happen again? How difficult is replacing the throttle cable? Do I need all the housing and stuff or just the actual cable? Should I try taking to another shop instead of doing it myself? Again, I have minimal mechanical skill. Thanks in advance, I am really looking forward to riding again in a few weeks! :ride:

you should be able to replace the cable with min. skills you have a good idea would be to take your video camera after you take the tank off the bike and get a good video of how the cable is routed and hooked up on both ends then tear in to just take your time dont get in a hurry . the cable should be smooth all the way threw to wide open throttle. and yes you can only get the cable complete not the inside or outside but the whole thing.

good luck

Popping On Deceleration Could Be Leaks On Your Exhaust System Or Adjustments On Your Carburetor Air/fuel Mixture. Leaks On The Motor Means Usually Gaskets Or Oil Seals. Try Tightening The Motor Bolts Carefully With A Torque Wrench. Sounds Like You Need A Driveshaft (sprocket) Oil Seal. Cables Are Easy To Replace, Though You Need To Remove The Seat And Gas Tank In Order To Do This. Taking A Digital Picture Would Be Helpful Before You Remove The Old Cable. Good Luck! I Have Been In Your Situation Before. You Can Do It.

Pull the new cable in with the old cable to ensure you get it in the right path.

The pull is going to feel easy and then more difficult as the second carb comes in on the linkage. You normally get about 1/4 throttle and then the second carb begins to open. They dont both open at the same time. If you take the skid plate off, you can see where the oil lines go into the motor. It's probably where its leaking. There are two o rings there where the engine oil lines plug in. Or it could simply be the hose fitting or line fittings are leaking a tad. Easy enough to tighten up.

The popping on decel is a lean condition on the pilot circut. Your carbs have an air screw instead of a fuel screw. The screw is on the clutch lever side toward the rear. Turn it in about 1/4 and the stalling and popping should stop.

When you route the cable, make sure it isnt dropping in between the steering stop and the frame. It can get pinched in there. A zip tie to the fork leg solves this.

ok thanks for the replies, will give all that a try when I get to my parents place in a few weeks. Cheers :applause:

My 83 xl600 had two throttle cables, one pulled and one pushed. Goofy setup, I disconnected the push one, capped the ends and left it in place to use as a spare if I should ever need it. It had a much better feel using only the pull cable.

So you should have a spare already on the bike, or they may have pinched one and got it in a bind. Good Luck. :applause:

Push / pull throttle cable? I thought it was two cables because of the two carbs. Seems odd :S Nevertheless I'll check that out. Cheers

Oh, and whats the quickest/easiest way to get the tank and seat off?

Oh, and whats the quickest/easiest way to get the tank and seat off?

2 nuts under the rear fender will release the seat. Then 1 bolt to get the tank off. All 10mm.

sweet! thanks a bunch everyone for your help. :applause:

If the cables are in good condtiion and properly routed, the push pull setup shouldnt matter. The push side is a saftey measure. I wouldnt recommend deleting it. If something hangs up in the linkage or one of the throttle slides decideds to stick, you'd better have your wits about you.

The pull is to pull throttle closed. Seems like a safety device that I would not remove.

This weekend I opened handgrip to lube the cables. I also felt that the throttle was a little too hard to open. Let me tell you, it was a bitch to get it put back together. There is a little plastic guide inside which helps the two cables make the right hand turn into the throttle grip. It was very hard to keep them in the guide when closing it up. Persistence paid off finally. The design of the throttle mechanism is bad as the cables wrap around a round tube and tend to slide off the raised perimeter of the tube since there is no little "valley" for the cables to nestle down in. hard to explain.

Lubing the cables helped.

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