Taming the YZ450 Beast????

dont buy anything, just keep riding you will get better,,,you bought a badA$$ first bike!

:applause:

I would have to agree with you on this one. No need to buy anything. Just keep practicing and improve your skills....It will save you time of not having to install anything and it will save you money....

Has anyone set up there YZ with WR timing to soften the hit??

Everyone in the WR forum (myself included) is timing there bikes to YZ specs to get more power and bigger hit. You would think the reverse would be true and it's a free mod vs. spending money on a flywheel.

Another idea, is buy a "Quiet" pipe with interchangable inserts. The quiet and more restrictive exhaust will mellow the hit.

Has anyone set up there YZ with WR timing to soften the hit??
That has to be done by actually changing the camshaft on the '03 and later auto decompression models, because to change the cam timing also changes the timing of the decompression phase. Going from WR to YZ causes the bike to have too little compression to start reliably, if at all, and going from YZ to WR effectively disables the system, making the bike nearly impossible to turn over. Some power seeking WR owners have ground the decomp pin, but taking such "bush" measures with an internal engine component is, frankly, barbaric, and I don't advise it.

But, yes, some YZ450 owners have installed WR cams and some of them did like it better, but if you want to soften the bike's temperament, and make it more fun and easier to live with, the flywheel is the way to go.

Try unhooking the TPS Sensor. I have the 05 WR450, and couldn't get rid of bog no matter how I jetted it. I unplugged the sensor, the bog went away, the hit wasn't as hard, but the power was smooth all the way through. I would much rather have the smooth power than that hard hit, even though I miss it. Besides, unhooking the TPS sensor doesn't cost anything. If that's not enough, I would go with a heavier bolt-on fly wheel, that's easy to do.

-shorty87

Me either...

I do! It has been proven not only on the dyno but by many who have tried it on track and like it. It will cause no harm to the motor and it is FREE! Tdub

Have you ever seen the Throttle Cam System by G2 Ergonomics. It has changeable cams that fit on the end of the throttle tube that alter the twist of the throttle. They range from larger in size to three sizes smaller. It is being used by riders from Ty Davis, Scott Summeres, and many more top off roaders.

Chad Johnson is using the system in the arenacross series. (www.g2ergo.com)

I tried the G2 errgo throttle. Unbelievable difference. This is a "must have" for any rider who is smart enough to realize that you can always use more control.

its really simple heres how you do it. less throttle=less hit. dont try to ride it wide open all the time, its all about throttle controll. i would try one of those throttle tubes or stick with everything stock. to me its the more power the better i would rather have it there when i dont need it than not have it there when i did need it.

I thinkt it depends on what kind of riding you do. I added a flywheel weight to mine and went to a 47T rear sprocket with the 14T front. It didn't wear me out like it did 14/48 and no flywheel weight. This year I put new chain and sprockets and I screwed up the order, I ordered 13/47 which is even lower than the 14/48. I tried it while I waited for a 14T front. I'm still running the 13/47, 8oz Steahy flywheel, and a power now (cylinder side). The bike rocks! I just put on a Ackro Ti system, I will never have to take it out of 3rd gear again! It pulls great, no hit just pull.

:applause: Go down one tooth on the rear sprocket. This will tame the bike considerably. The heavier flywheel is also a great idea. Try the sprocket first, it's less expensive.

I'm telling you guys, ALWAYS try the G2 throttle before the flywheel, unless you have a problem with the bike stalling. I PROMISE you will be more happy based on myself and everyone I know that have tried these.

Also, no offense, but I would choose a quality CRD (see Lafferty's bike, he;s runing a CRD Ti system) or Leovinchi over the cheap Akro Czecho-made exhaust. Czecho is famous for beer - not quality motorcycle parts. Maybe one has something to do with the other?

:p Go down one tooth on the rear sprocket. This will tame the bike considerably. The heavier flywheel is also a great idea. Try the sprocket first, it's less expensive.

I just did this ... not to lessen the hit, but I was always getting stuck between 2nd and 3rd on jumps at some local tracks. The 47t rear makes it awesome :ride: I was completely satisfied... the first track I hit is kind of supercross style and it is now a second gear track with two 3rd gear jumps. :p Love the 4 speed, and one tooth down on the rear is the secret. Plenty of torque to handle it too :applause:

Also, no offense, but I would choose a quality CRD (see Lafferty's bike, he;s runing a CRD Ti system) or Leovinchi over the cheap Akro Czecho-made exhaust. Czecho is famous for beer - not quality motorcycle parts. Maybe one has something to do with the other?

No offense taken on my part, you might want to tell Ben Townley that his exhaust was only good enough for beer cans. :applause:

Also, no offense, but I would choose a quality CRD (see Lafferty's bike, he;s runing a CRD Ti system) or Leovinchi over the cheap Akro Czecho-made exhaust. Czecho is famous for beer - not quality motorcycle parts. Maybe one has something to do with the other?

No offense taken on my part, you might want to tell Ben Townley that his exhaust was only good enough for beer cans. :applause:

Ummm...who's Ben Townley?

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