uncorking...the saga continues.

Ugh... weekend is over, and my bike will not start.

If you read my other thread you know i had a terrible time with a stripped screw in the carb.

At this point the bike is all back together assembled properly(maybe), and it will not start descriptions of the problems are as follows-

1.- the throttle doesnt feel as "snappy" as before, maybe i need to adjust one way or the other but i tried both and it just doesnt feel quite right. Suggestions?

2.- if i pull in the clutch and put it in any gear then try to roll the bike it feels as if it is in gear. ???

Now it didnt start up either. I did take the spark arrestor off completely because i didn't feel like drilling it out(this was taking forever, i must have been doing something wrong)

I'm frustrated and at loss and trying to build up a game plan for next weekend as im out of time to tool on the thing. Any help is appreciated.

Sorry I can't help on the no starting problem but when my bike is cold it's hard as hell to push with the trans in gear and the clutch in. I also had to take the spark arrestor off and chuck it in the drill press to drill it. I went through two cheap holesaws and when I was finished it looked so hacked up you would think I used a hatchet.

If the throttle feels sluggish and different there are several possibilities.

1. You tightened the screws on the throttle handle too much and they are binding. (loosen them a bit and see if it snaps back the way it's supposed to) If you never touched the throttle handle then:

2. You routed the throttle cables wrong and created a bind or kink in the cable.

3. When you changed the needles it did not quite line up with the seat hole and the tip of the needle bent when you dropped it into position.

Just keep in mind when working with a throttle and cables that you do not have to torque the screws with all your might behind them. Make sure every thing lines up before buttoning it up.

4. You now have no spark arrester and are not legal in forest and most any other kind of land. Either drill it out or order the Honda uncorking exhaust insert. You are doing something wrong the hole saw should have been through that thing in less than a minute.

2. You routed the throttle cables wrong and created a bind or kink in the cable.

I'm really going to hope this is my problem with the throttle.

3. When you changed the needles it did not quite line up with the seat hole and the tip of the needle bent when you dropped it into position.

Not this.

Any ideas on the clutch?

Sometimes the clutchs stick when theyve been sitting a while. Thats probably all it is...Fix the throttle return before you bother kicking at it and trying to ride it...

I'm really going to hope this is my problem with the throttle.

Not this.

Any ideas on the clutch?

Actually that is common clutch behavior I would not worry about it. Wait until you get the bike running to see if the clutch is working correctly.

Maybe this info will help somebody diagnose my problem getting the bike started-

when i went to start after changes, i found it way too easy to kick over. Before, i would lightly kick until i met resistance, pull the decompression lever, then get it a good solid kick and start it right up.

After changes i tried to start the thing about 30 times and almost never had to pull the decompression lever, because i could kick all the way through, and when i woulld encounter resistance, it was not substantial and could kick through it.

Maybe this info will help somebody diagnose my problem getting the bike started-

when i went to start after changes, i found it way too easy to kick over. Before, i would lightly kick until i met resistance, pull the decompression lever, then get it a good solid kick and start it right up.

After changes i tried to start the thing about 30 times and almost never had to pull the decompression lever, because i could kick all the way through, and when i woulld encounter resistance, it was not substantial and could kick through it.

This kinda sounds like your decompression valve is slightly open. Make sure you have some play in the cable and/or that it is not kinked. If you have removed the fuel tank, there is a chance that both cables may have been pinched when the tank was put back on. I have noticed a couple of times, that my decomp valve stayed open after pulling the lever. If I give it a few kicks while pulling the lever several times, it cures that. Just my 2-cents worth.

blue bayou, give me a call, I can help you get going. Drilling out my tip took 2 minutes, you're doing something wrong.

4Takt

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