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calvin71

Crank Case Problem

10 posts in this topic

I've run into an unexpected problem where the oil filter case bolts into the crank case: The allen bolt at the bottom of the oil filter case seems to have pulled the threads from the crank case so that I'm unable to bolt them together. Now, there are still some threads at the bottom that will allow the bolt to attach if I remove the oil case cover but obviously that won't work. Any suggestions as to a fix that doesn't include buying an entirely new crank case? Please help......

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This problem is fairly common if you don't take the time to clean out the threaded section of the case when you do an oil/filter change. When you remove the filter and filter cover, all the dirty oil/metal shavings etc go into the threaded area. If you don't clean the threads out properly, all the crap in there will eventually cause the problem you now have. There have been plenty of posts about this in the past, and without doing a search, i can't see any reason why a Heli-Coil insert, properly fitted, wouldn't work. Someone who's actually had to repair theirs may be able to suggest another method?

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This may sound stupid but it is usually the bolt that strips first, check the threads on the bolt, or just replace it and see, they cost next to nothing, or you can either take it to the shop and have it retaped or do it yourself but do not replace the caseing (MEGABUCKS) hope all goes well.

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Those threads are not in the crankcase, but in the right engine cover. Remove the cover and repair the threads with a 6mm x 1.0 Heli-Coil. I would ordinarily recommend a Time-Sert instead, but the threads are down in a recess, and I'm not certain a Time-Sert will fit there. If it does, it would be a better fix.

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i repaired my with a Heli coil, it works great. i would recommend pulling the case cover off to drill & tap, if not make sure you put grease on the drill & tag to prevent a lot of shaving from getting in the case.

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I used a heli-coil. I would highly recommend taking the side cover off to do it. Even with grease, chances are good that some shavings will still get in. Also, be carefull not to drill all the way through. You need the heli-coil to bottom out at the rear of the cover.

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You need the heli-coil to bottom out at the rear of the cover.
Heli-Coils do not need to be bottomed. You simply run them in until the top end of the coil is below the top of the threaded hole, so it's fully supported, and break off the driving tang at the lower end. The tang is pre-scored, and will snap off if twisted or bent. The coil holds in place quite well.

Coils that do bottom because of space limitations have to be ground flush with the top of the hole if they extend out past it, and as there would be no way of doing that in this case, be certain to insert it to the right depth.

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Heli-Coils do not need to be bottomed. You simply run them in until the top end of the coil is below the top of the threaded hole, so it's fully supported, and break off the driving tang at the lower end. The tang is pre-scored, and will snap off if twisted or bent. The coil holds in place quite well.

Coils that do bottom because of space limitations have to be ground flush with the top of the hole if they extend out past it, and as there would be no way of doing that in this case, be certain to insert it to the right depth.

Even if you tap the entire length? I can see how it would stop if it wasn't threaded all the way but otherwise, wouldn't it just turn through with the bolt?

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You always want to clean the helicoil and new threads with brake cleaner and use red lock tight on it before installing. Let it dry before installing a new greased bolt, you'll never have any problems with it again, if done properly.

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There's no need for Loc-Tite either. The coil holds itself in place by virtue of the fact that it is larger in diameter than the hole it inserts into, and has a burr at each end (when the tang is broken off) that acts like a lock washer does. As long as the bolt is clean going in, it will stay put.

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