Anodizing Spray

Does anyone here have experience with some anodizing spray paint?

I've taken a look at http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html

and was thinking about doing my rims :banghead: but they don't have black. Wondering where I could find some black anodizing spray?

I used the blue stuff on my wheel spacers and brake caliper carriers, and I was happy with how it turned out. I found the paint to be a little easy to damage, but I didn't spend much time doing prep and it may not have been cured well when I installed the parts.

i take it doing the rims would be a bad idea

yes a verry bad idea. Powder coating is the way to go for wheels.

my friend did front rim with frame paint and its holding up a lot better than expected. good enough where if i thought the rear would hold up the same i'd definitely paint them.

I used the metalcast paint on my valve cover on my 250f.Check out my garage for pics of it.

I used the metalcast paint on my valve cover on my 250f.Check out my garage for pics of it.

very nice.. i like it, but i wish they had black :banghead:

i'd like to see what the smoke color looks like too

Why don't you just have the stock rims anodized black? I'd think it would hold up better than paint or powdercoating.

I agree with schuon.

Excel anodize their rims. If powdercoating was better, I'm sure they would do it. But they don't.

The heat during the baking for powder coating weakens the rims, anodizing is the way to go.

aedwards07, Nice job on the valve cover, looks excellent!

Anodizing is an electrochemical process that involves passing current from an anode to a cathode in a acid bath which creates a hollow, hard porous surface. After the anodizing process the part is dipped in color that is held in the porus surface and then the part is dipped in a sealer at high temp. I don't know what it is but if it comes from a spray can it isn't anodizing.

Home anodizing is not difficult if you don't mind working with battery acid, for small parts a simple battery charger will work, do a search on the web and you'll find complete (less acid) anodizing kits with sealer and multiple colors and instructions for under $50. The first decomp plugs I shipped to TT were anodized in my garage in a couple of old coolers using a battery charger with a hot plate for heating the color and sealer. Now they are sent to SAPA anodizing in Portland, OR.

Sorry for the rambling.

I used this on a few parts on my 05 CRF. It looks good, not an exact match to alot of other anodized parts, But worth the time. Make sure and buy the metalcast primer.

Thanks for the tip, maybe I'll re-do my stuff when I get the time, as yours looks much shinier and the paint stuck better I'm sure.

Sorry for the rambling.
Compared to me, that was a footnote. :banghead: Good info.

Dude yzfmxer, thos epegs are huge. OMG, they Look like a flatbed truck. nice.How are they to ride on?

there the fastway pegs. I like them alot, unitll i ride in the mud, then they seem to be a bit slipery. But in the dry you cant beat em'!!!

Ouchy.....

This must be why you have so much time to make your bike look so pretty

http://photobucket.com/albums/v248/yzfmxer/?action=view&current=IMG_0625.jpg

The heat during the baking for powder coating weakens the rims, anodizing is the way to go.

aedwards07, Nice job on the valve cover, looks excellent!

you only use like 350 to 400 degrees to bake on the powder coat and that is not enough to weaken the rim, you would have to get them alot hotter than that and cool them quickly to weaken them or to crystalize them, i have mine powdercoated and they hold up just fine,and they look great, plus you can only anodize aluminum so if your stock wheels are steel then powder coating is the way to go. it only cost me $20 a rim to have it done

you only use like 350 to 400 degrees to bake on the powder coat and that is not enough to weaken the rim, you would have to get them alot hotter than that and cool them quickly to weaken them or to crystalize them, i have mine powdercoated and they hold up just fine,and they look great, plus you can only anodize aluminum so if your stock wheels are steel then powder coating is the way to go. it only cost me $20 a rim to have it done

I agree, I have most of my aircraft parts (steel and aluminum) powder coated and don't worry about PC affecting the strength. They only hold that temp for 10-15 minutes tops so you don't have to worry about powder coating weakening the rims. It's a matter of choice and color options.

PC has more color options and is usually cheaper than anodizing, with most anodizing shops you pay for a tank or rack load, usually $70-$80. The shop I use in Portland for the decomp plugs charges me $80 whether I have 1 or a full rack of 600 done.

you only use like 350 to 400 degrees to bake on the powder coat and that is not enough to weaken the rim, you would have to get them alot hotter than that and cool them quickly to weaken them or to crystalize them, i have mine powdercoated and they hold up just fine,and they look great, plus you can only anodize aluminum so if your stock wheels are steel then powder coating is the way to go. it only cost me $20 a rim to have it done

I guess it's only the hub he was talking about... I was checking this site that does MX rims and hubs and the note at the bottom says he wont do hubs because it weakens them. Does this sound like a good price for him to strip down, polish, anodize and build back to specs?

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