Please tell me I can still ride it!!!!!

I did some major maintenance on my L today. I changed both tires, front and rear pads, new oil and greased everything.

Problem is that I busted one of the 4 front axle holder nuts!!!!! I was using a small torque wrench and it busted none the less. (torque wrench must be bad) :banghead:

The L is my main transportation (I can not afford to drive and park my truck in downtown San Diego) and it is riding great, even though the bolt is broken.

I called Precision Concepts since I want my suspension redone anyway. They quoted me about $350.00 for the lower tube. (there goes my new carb!!)

Anyway, can I still ride while I get the lower fork tube replaced?

You might be able to drill and back out the remaining portion of the stud to allow for an easy replacement. I know it is tough drilling steel out of aluminum, but you could probably use the cap for a guide, and/or start out really small and work your way up to an easy out size.

When I bought my 650L this year, I was running the heck out of it. About a month later, I was changing to street tires and found all four of my bolts loose. An axle coming out on the highway would be dangerous, but remember it still has 65 ft lbs holding it tight.

With 3 out of 4 nuts secure, with loctite , I would to ride it to work and back just taking it easy. :lol:

I would visually check them before every ride, and I would not do any high speed riding or fork flexing stuff until it was properly repaired. :banghead:

But thats just me, I'm crazy like that.

Good luck! :banghead:

Relax, you don't need a new fork leg. The stud you broke is threaded on both ends. If a stub is still sticking out, grab it with some pliers and turn ccw.

If it's broken off inside the fork leg, you need to drill a hole into the stud and turn it out with a screw extractor.

This is a bit more tricky, bring it to a machine shop if you don't have good, precise tools.

Here's what a screw extractor looks like, I think you can get them at Sears:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html?ref=googleadws&kw=screw+extractor

4Takt

I broke one once. I was able to cut a slot into it with hack-saw and used a flat-head to get it out. This would be difficult if it broke flush though. The screw extractor works great though, I have used them for many other things. A requirement if bolt is flush

Who needs a front wheel? keep it in the air.

*just kidding*

seriously though, as mentioned above, you should be able to pull the offending stud with an extractor. if you don't feel comfy doing it take it to a repair shop, or better yet a buddy at a machine shop where they are adept at fixing such things. a 12 pack to a friend is cheaper than new fork legs.

i would ride mine shy a nut, but as mentioned id take it easy and check them a lot. I am not saying do it, just merely stating that i would.

i snapped a stud....had about a quarter inch stickin out and took it out with plyers. rode it with 3 studs for like a month....300 miles ish. worked just fine. if u have to, use and easy out to get the old stud out.

:lol::lol::busted:

There is lots of the stud sticking out, so it will be easy to get out. :banghead:

:busted::busted::lol:

Its all in the shop manual, guess I should look at it more often. :busted:

Thanks all.

New carb a reality again... :banghead:

What carb are you looking at and why?

the stocker seems fine for daily commutes... are you looking for something more?

Ive read alot about the various possibilities, i dont mean to restart those threads. I'm just curious why the change? is there something one will offer that the stock one wont?

didnt mean to hijack, sorry :-(

What carb are you looking at and why?

the stocker seems fine for daily commutes... are you looking for something more?

Ive read alot about the various possibilities, i dont mean to restart those threads. I'm just curious why the change? is there something one will offer that the stock one wont?

I ride my L on tons of dual sport rides through out the year, so little more power is always welcome. I hate the hesitation of the CV carb, even drilled it is not as responsive as a pumper carb.

As for which one, I have not made up my mind. The price of the mikuni pumper makes it a real possibility. I like tinkering so playing with it to make it right will be fun.

Problem is that I busted one of the 4 front axle holder nuts!!!!! I was using a small torque wrench and it busted none the less. (torque wrench must be bad) :lol:

Anyway, can I still ride while I get the lower fork tube replaced?

Been there & done that. I was reinstalling the front wheel after replacing the front tire about 2 weeks ago and BANG! The lower inside stud snapped right off. :banghead:

This was Saturday night and I was going (street) riding the next morning. :banghead: I did the quick McGyver fix with the tools and hardware I had on hand. I drilled into the broken stud with a smaller drill bit than the outside stud diameter, tapped it & used a machine screw in the newly "threaded" stud. Put some Loctite and a lock washer on it and it's been fine ever since. :lol: None of the 3 remaining nuts have loosened up and the same goes for the wayward 10/32 phillips head machine screw posing as an axle fixing bolt. :lol:

Note to self: "Get on that and get it fixed right." :busted:

:lol::lol::busted:

There is lots of the stud sticking out, so it will be easy to get out. :banghead:

:busted::busted::lol:

Its all in the shop manual, guess I should look at it more often. :busted:

Thanks all.

New carb a reality again... :banghead:

yeah, just order one from your local honda dealer its a special stud......make sure its the right one....if u want i could get u a part #, i keep a spare in my tool bag.

I'm not that die-hard of a rider any more, im mostly looking for a cool bike that gets good gas stats, that i can jump stumps with and tear-ass around the back 40 on. More power is always good, i think Tim taylor coined that.

I would be curious to hear more of your possibilities and eventual choice. I want to get a bit more off road at some point, your opinions would be good to hear.

left handed drill bits are available for this purpose, too.

When drilling the pilot hole for the extractor with a right handed (standard) drill bit, you're only tightening it in there.

most of the time I've drilled out broken studs with left handed drill bits, the offending stud comes out before I have to use the extractor.

-T

i would ride mine shy a nut, but as mentioned id take it easy and check them a lot. I am not saying do it, just merely stating that i would.

Lance Armstrong does, why can't we? :banghead:

I have a used set of forks for $200 for sale .

MGS

I went through this last year and had a ride planned the next day. I had barely enough of the bolt to grab it with vise grips, but couldn't get the bolt to turn out without loosing my grip.

Got some suggestions here on TT and was advised to put some heat to it (I was a little nervous doing this due to damaging something internally) I fired up the propane torch and put the heat to it and the damn thing came out easily. Aluminum heats up really fast so you don't need much. Good luck.

I went through this last year and had a ride planned the next day. I had barely enough of the bolt to grab it with vise grips, but couldn't get the bolt to turn out without loosing my grip.

Got some suggestions here on TT and was advised to put some heat to it (I was a little nervous doing this due to damaging something internally) I fired up the propane torch and put the heat to it and the damn thing came out easily. Aluminum heats up really fast so you don't need much. Good luck.

yeah, aluminum heats up way faster than steal....and expands much more too. if there isn't enough to grab with the vise grips, drill a hole in the stud and use an easy out....heat will be necessary when using an easy out.

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