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xr_stamm

650R triple clamp swap w/ CRF

14 posts in this topic

I just pressed apart my 650R triple clamp and a CRF triple clamp so I can swap the stem and get some big honkin forks on my ride.

My question is, has anyone else pressed these apart or know what the shaft looks like that is in the lower triple clamp. The result of my press work was not so clean. It appears that there is a lip machined in the shaft and the triple clamp that I managed to "extrude". I almost seems (by looking at the debris) that the triple clamp was cast around the stem. But I know this wasn't the case. It could be that when I pressed it out, the metals had become "one" and tore a section of the bore and shaft?

What about you kids with Billet clamps? Ever had the stem out?

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I pushed on the side that didn't have a bearing or a shaft sticking out (the bottom). In other words I only had to push it 1 inch to get it out, rather than 8 inches.

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Aaargh!

Say goodbye to that triple clamp and maybe consider another hobby.

&%$#@! kinda pressure did you put on this to drive the steel lip right through the aluminum? That musta literally took several tons. :banghead:

4Takt

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Argh, that's the wrong way as 4Takt said. The stem shaft is tapered and is designed to be pressed out from the top of the lower clamp through the bottom. In other words, you're supposed to press out 8" instead of 1" and this is common on most steering stem assembies. That's too bad, but don't feel bad because it could have been worse. We all go to the school of hard knocks at some point or another :banghead:

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That's too bad, but don't feel bad because it could have been worse.

How so?

Not trying to give the guy a hard time here, but either you have a mechanical mind or you don't. If you don't, this kind of garage engineering is dangerous and can easily get you hurt or killed.

Simply measuring the stem diameter above and below the triple clamp would tell anybody that there is only on way to go. Not to mention some thinking about the fact that you are pulling on the stem when tightening the steering head.

Everybody had to start somewhere, but you have to use some sense before you mess with vital parts of a potentially dangerous machine.

4Takt

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Thanks for the beating :banghead:

The lucky part is that only 10% of the length of the bore is narfed. In the end I'll clean up the OD and ID to retain much of the press fit length and drill the whole assembly for dowel pins. :applause:

As for tightening the nut, there isn't much force on the stem from the nut. Remember the bearings don't take a zillion pounds of preload. The high torque is between the top nut and the lower nut, which doesn't really affect anything below the upper clamp.

BTW, it took just shy of 15 Ton, in case anyone was wondering.

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Thanks for the beating :banghead:

QUOTE]

When I was a kid, I was installing a bigger cam in a XL350. I didn't line the timing marks up. When I cranked her over it bent all the valves.

My Dad put one heck of a beating on me. I never did thank him for that one.

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When doing these kinds of things for the first time, it's worth it to follow along with the service manual, especially with it being available for download on several BRP sites for nothing. The manual (usually) doesn't lie, and can save you costly errors. I know it's saved my butt a few times. :applause:

Edit: Go figure. I just took a look through the service manual, and though it details the removal and re-installation of the lower roller bearing, it stops short of describing how to press out a stem. I guess that would fall under "common knowledge required to wrench on a dirt bike" then. :banghead:

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I fixed it.

I de-narfed the bore and shaft and pressed it all back together. I even drilled it for a dowel pin to be sure. Reamed it to a thou under and am just waiting for Monday to buy the roll pin. I should have the forks and wheels installed soon and post a picture of how you CAN overcome a screw up.

Later.

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