Another newbie: Gearing question

[Mickey XR650L]

I have a 2005 XR650L,

I'm a new rider; 46 yo 6'4" and 280lb.

I was a recreational mountainbiker until laziness, work and family created a 50lb dunlop around my midsection. My primary use is as an alternative vehicle when motorhome camping and for So Cal trail/fire road adventure riding.

(Big Bear, Ocotillo, Santa Ana Moutains etc..)

I have learned 4 things:

*Ca street legal is crucial

*dirt riding is awesome

*650L is not dirt ready

*I need more horsepower and lower gearing

On order is Big Gun Quiet Series full exhaust, Dynojet Intake Kit, Baja Kit Smog Removal, K&N Filter, front/rear Trakmaster 760 Tires and a 13T titanium front sprocket from Sidewinder.

(plans for stabilizer, triple clamps, bars, pegs, suspension tuning.........)

I have researched all mods, with the exception of the 13T front sprocket.

Was 2 teeth too much?

(I know mods and newbies are "old hat" I have searched but did not find much about lower gearing. No plan for freeway riding, but still need street capability)

[justicedone]

I think 14/48 is the best combo for closing the 1-2 gap and adding more torque in the low end for hill climbing and offroading. And you can still cruise 80-85 if ya like.

One of the best mods you can do.

[justicedone]

You may wanna rethink the Big Gun, they are supposed to leak at rivets and not last long. Maybe an FMF, WB, or .....

Yoshi

Anyway if you wanna ride in San Diego with other old XR650L types pm me for Sunday rides info.

[roadcam]

I run the 14/48 on mine too, but it sure isn't "cruising" at 80 ... it's revving pretty good, real 'buzzy' ...

[zodran]

I run 14/49, I used to use 13 teeth on enduro bikes and the teeth would get hooked pretty quickly. Titanium wasn't an option then, but still 13 is wrapping the chain pretty tight. If you still have the stock 45 tooth rear you are going to be about the same ratio as 14/48 and won't have to buy a longer chain, just yet. 3.46 vs 3.42

I think you'll be happy with the big gun, mines got a pretty good bark when you hammer it but not obnoxious. The only problem I had was at the headpipe muffler junction, a cheesy little strap bracket with a captive nut broke. I boxed in the ends and it seems to be fine now.

If it seems a little loud, go up to about 8-10k elevation, it'll sound just right!

[goblin127]

I run the 14 / 48 also.Great in thee woods but 60mph is cruising anything more and its buzzin.

[rokklym]

I run the 14-48 combo also, I'd stick with the steel sprockets but thats my 2 cents.

I dont know what the "best" combo would be, its a comprimise. Sometimes I with I would have left the gearing alone, or only done the CS sprocket one tooth. The only times I think that is on really steep or steep technical climbs. First gear winds out pretty quick and second gets ya going pretty fast so if you try to climb something in second you are going pretty quick and in first you are going to rev out.

With the smog kit all you need is the block off plates, you can do it without useing the plugs and stuff that the kits come with.

[wr450fyamaha]

i run 14/45.........should be 14/48 you may even wanna go to 14/52 but i urge u, do not get a 13 front!!!!!!!!! it will wear out the rub pads in about a quarter of the time!......14 is the minimum on the front.

[XRsteve]

I have 14-48 on mine. Like everybody else said, big improvement off road, but a revs a little high above 60mph. I was thinking about just swapping the front to 15 for highway trips and then back to 14 for around town and off-road. By the way, has anybody had to change their chain guides? My rear seems to rub a little more than I would like it to after I put the 48 tooth on. (did that last week)

[wr450fyamaha]

i just installed a whole new thing

[1biglung]

I run 14/48. I tried the 13 but it was too low for my taste especially on the street. If you are local to North Rialto you can take a 13 for a test drive before you install the new one in case you want to return it. I like having it around if I want to drop it down for some tight stuff. It really helps with the 1st and 2nd gear gap on slow stuff.

PM me if you want to test drive the 13.

P.S. I am also a 280 rider and springs, revalve on the suspension and fork brace made more difference than you could imagine.

Chris

[ghoti]

I run 15/48 sprockets, but I mostly commute at speeds up to 75mph. I swap for a 14 front when I play in the dirt. Don't open your Dynajet kit, just return it and by some new Keihien jets.

[Fordskin]

TO GHOTI: That is the gearing i am thinking of running {15\48] I am in Australia and my new bike has 15\41 gearing as standard. Way too tall! Tell me can you still mono in second and 3rd gear with 15\48. Is that gearing the same as say 14\44. I want to be able to do 110klmph without hurting the bike on the freeway. Thats i think about is about 66mph.

[goblin127]

You will be able to cruise at 65 with the 15/48 .with a 14/48 its about 60.

[ghoti]

TO GHOTI: That is the gearing i am thinking of running {15\48] I am in Australia and my new bike has 15\41 gearing as standard. Way too tall! Tell me can you still mono in second and 3rd gear with 15\48. Is that gearing the same as say 14\44. I want to be able to do 110klmph without hurting the bike on the freeway. Thats i think about is about 66mph.

Mono? is that a wheelie? Yes for second, third is a bit harder. 15/48 and 14/44 come out to about the same ratio. One thing I noticed was going to a 5.10 x 18 rear tire from the 4.60 stocker is about the same as adding 3 teeth to the rear sprocket. No worries going 66mph. I regularly see 75mph.

[marioct]

I run a 14/48 and I have to agree with the other guys, it is a little buzzy over 60. Since I am commuting more and need a chain and sprocket set I am going with steel sprockets in a 15/48 gearing with RK x-ring chain. I got the set for $95.00 delivered on e-bay I have a new 14 tooth front sprocket I can switch to if I am going off road for a thrashing but since gas in Connecticut is around $3 a gallon, I will ride the XR more. The sprockets will help!!

[klmmicro]

This is a great thread. I am looking at changing my front to a 14 and leaving the rear the stock 45 for now. My concern is that I use the bike for regular travel on the freeway and want to be able to run 70 and keep the engine from winding too much. Being limited to 60 MPH is just not an option, but I agree with those that say the bike is geared too high from the factory.

GHOTI: do you mean that the larger tire was like taking 3 teeth off the rear sprocket?

[ghoti]

This is a great thread. I am looking at changing my front to a 14 and leaving the rear the stock 45 for now. My concern is that I use the bike for regular travel on the freeway and want to be able to run 70 and keep the engine from winding too much. Being limited to 60 MPH is just not an option, but I agree with those that say the bike is geared too high from the factory.

GHOTI: do you mean that the larger tire was like taking 3 teeth off the rear sprocket?

Yes, 3 teeth off. It was a long day Right now I'm 15/48 and just mounted up a new 4.50-18 and can cruise at 65 no problem, and it still will jump pretty good for passing. I did notice a drop of 4 or 5 mpg from a well worn 5.10-18

[Mark_Bear]

Fordskin

Check Messages

Mark

[LotsOfBikes]

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Larger diameter tire like adding teeth to the rear sprocket??

You have it backwards... It's the other way around..

Consider the extremes: Install a rear tire the diameter of a roller skate wheel (assume 2-inches.. It will have to spin really fast just to cover a foot (realistically impossible since the rear sprocket would be touching the ground, lets ignore that).. That's Low gearing!!! Top of fifth should get you 6.11mph . Now imagine that you install a tire with a Diameter of 10 feet. Each single rotation of the tire equals 34.4 feet traveled per rotation. Ignoring that it'd never fit in the swingarm, your top speed in the top of fifth gear is 341.95mph.

Basically, Larger diameter rear tire equals gearing up, since the distance traveled per rotation is higher.

If you want to gear down, using the thin rear sidewall technique, get a 110/80-18 or a 100/80-18 rear tire. Translated it means that the sidewall is 80% as tall as the tire is wide No sidewall would be something like a 100/0-18 (The knobs would be right on the rim.). a 5.10-18 tire is very close to a 120/100-18 tire when measured.

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